Make sure however, that before you tape them, make sure everything is right where you want it, because after you tape them, you cant double check. Also earlier we talked about fileing out the bushings for a loose fit. This becomes all the more necessary as the bushings, out of necessity, are being glued to the inside of the sail walls that are slightly sloping(not perpendicular).
Skipjack 1/72
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If you dont like the tape idea(like I dont) you can always prop it up like so. Also put some light machine oil on the shaft on the ends where they ride inside the bushings, that way if any CA gets in there, youll be able to break it free.
Last edited by greenman407; 10-15-2013, 10:25 AM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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IN SHEER AND UTTER PANIC.....................I searched vainly! Rifling thru my belongings.............throwing things in sheer and unmitigated rage........until nearly exhausted................at the limit of human endurance...............It was then that I casually noted that the clear lenses for the sail that I thought were to never grace this planet again, were laying right there under my nose(turning pink with embarrassment, I am returning to work now)Last edited by greenman407; 10-15-2013, 01:49 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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And what a well formed lens it is too. Be careful, dont lose it.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Fumes?.............fumes?................One thing I just noticed, watch that you dont put the lens in upside down. If you do then the lens wont match the contour of the back of the sail. Nice touch.
Last edited by greenman407; 10-15-2013, 02:32 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Looking ahead to the future, the only thing that I dont have to complete this thing is a Speed control and the three servos. Ill get that order in today, that way Ill be able to sleep tonight.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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I spread the sail haves in the rear to get the light in place. Then it was time to do some glueing. I used thin CA to spot tack the edges while holding the edges together with my fingers. Carefully. Once thats done go back over the rest of the edges(except the bottom) with plastic weld and let it sit to dry. The bottom must not be glued to allow the sail to flex and spread in order to remove the sail plane sprocket at a future time(if need be). Now on to Sub driver foundations.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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The foundations for the Subdriver are comprised of a smaller set for the rear section and a larger set for the front hull section. Note the cutouts for the cast in doohickeys on the face of the hull. Some kinda casting spot. Anyway you can still put these things in backwards if you are not careful. Test them both ways and stick to the way that fits the best. Just remember that the smaller set goes in the rear hull section bottom up against the small bulkhead thingy. GOT THAT???!!!IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Then the forward set must go on the forward side of the rearmost bulkhead in the front lower section, as seen in the included pictures. Its a good idea to work from a centerline, which can be established using a compass as HWSNBN suggested or by using a wrap around. You can make your own wrap around by using a womans sewing tape measure(do they sew anymore?) or by cutting a strip about 1" wide out of a cereal box and lay it along the inside radius of the hull starting at the very edge of the hull and wrap it around to the other edge and put a mark there. Remove it and using a tape measure mark the distance that is exactly half of what you just measured. Then put it back in and then transfer your mark. To check your work then turn the wrap around around and do the same thing but start from the other side. You get the idea. Just a different way to make the same wheel.
Last edited by greenman407; 10-17-2013, 07:37 AM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Dave, the torpedo bulkhead stuff. Im not installing a torpedo system but do I need to install the torpedo bulkheads anyway?IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Who is John Galt?Comment
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Who is John Galt?Comment
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Continuing on following Davids instructions(thank God) the cool spring loaded shock absorber goes in next. Keep in mind youll need to cut out an opening in the forward foundation in the middle, about a 1/2" wide all the way down to the top of the factory strip bulkhead. This for the reason of being able to take the shock absorber apart in the future without having to "dig" out the screw heads on the other side and mess up your paint job. You see here my trusty Dremel with right angle drive and cutter. First mark it out so that you have some lines to guide you. If you are really smart you could do this before you CAed the foundations down(DUH!)IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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