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You want the after face of the motor bulkhead to butt up against the two large hull indexing pins of the lower hull. You gotta move that cylinder foward.
Thanks Guys, I will drill a 9/64" hole at that location. This thing is starting to take shape. Dave, any word yet on the emergency backup ballast kit? If Im going to put one in, now would be the time.
Finishing up the sail I drilled some holes to get the air out of the top of the sail and out of the exhaust fairing on the deck behind the sail. Inside of that fairing are a bunch of ribs that I cut a notch in for better bubble flow.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
Gentlemen................and I use the term ........rather loosely......when I was building the Albacore duoprop , I ordered from Caswell their "Plug n Plate" plating system in Nickel, to coat the props to make them stiffer. When it arrived, I noticed that it was also available in Bronze. My little Pea brain has suggested to me that since most Naval props are Bronze I have heard, and we are endeavoring to paint our props Bronze, perhaps another option is to actually plate these white metal props..............Bronze.
So, with that new endeavor on my mind, I called Jon at British Tools/Caswell and ordered one. ANOTHER ADVENTURE!
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
I have a question, with those holes you have drilled in the bottom of the Skipjack sail do you then countersink them underneath to aid airflow etc ? I always have although not sure how valid it is.
Daves instructions were to drill holes under the sail area for air removal. As you can see though the rearmost hole is in a cluster of reinforcing that will impede air flow. So I will trim that area down and countersink the underside of the holes as well. This is very important because the Ballast tank will be venting its air up thru here.
Thanks Tom. Actually my earlier posting was incorrect on the detail of where the ballast tank vents in relation to the sail. It actually vents right underneath the last screw on the sail way back on the tip end closest to the stern. Therefore in the accompanying picture you can see where I have the Xacto knife pointing. This is the spot where the ballast tank will vent air. At the top of the picture you can see a radial reinforcing ring cast into the hull. I think that will help slow the air bubbles. If we put a hole in the upper hull right forward of that ring, that will help spill out the air.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
Also of note is that I purchased the foam and weight kit for this thing. Unfortunately it doesnt come with any info as to where the foam and the weight goes. Using my minimal powers of deduction, it would appear that this is the designed location of placement of the weights. Except that the forward one in the picture will go a little bit more forward after I trim out that radial reinforcement ring for clearance.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
Thanks Tom. Actually my earlier posting was incorrect on the detail of where the ballast tank vents in relation to the sail. It actually vents right underneath the last screw on the sail way back on the tip end closest to the stern. Therefore in the accompanying picture you can see where I have the Xacto knife pointing. This is the spot where the ballast tank will vent air. At the top of the picture you can see a radial reinforcing ring cast into the hull. I think that will help slow the air bubbles. If we put a hole in the upper hull right forward of that ring, that will help spill out the air.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23804[/ATTACH]
yup, dig out a path for the air to escape from there.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Also of note is that I purchased the foam and weight kit for this thing. Unfortunately it doesnt come with any info as to where the foam and the weight goes. Using my minimal powers of deduction, it would appear that this is the designed location of placement of the weights. Except that the forward one in the picture will go a little bit more forward after I trim out that radial reinforcement ring for clearance.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23805[/ATTACH]
Almost, Mark. That forward weight: Turn it around and move it aft till it butts up against the shock absorber -- that half-moon in the weight is there to permit forward travel of the shock-absorber pin.
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