Stingray Build
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Polyester resin mix with some polyester filler to give it body, then Fibreglass matting to give strength, I prefer this over Gel coat as it weathers the knocks better than Gelcoat and dosnt crack a few years on. Just my own opinion you understand.Comment
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I haven't heard of that technique before. It's not generally recommended to use gelcoat in rubber tools anyway. I've not seen a reason given but I would guess that shrinkage of the resin as it cures results in the resin moving away from the rubber tool, and as the resin is air inhibited it wouldn't fully cure. So they tend to recommend mixing a thixo additive e.g colloidal silica with normal lay-up resin and using that instead.Comment
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I've done a lot of lay-up work and I too shy away from commercial gel-coat blends. My first layer in a lay-up is catalyzed resin, neat. I keep it from doing the fish-eye trick by making my last layer of mold release PVC, which has the texture to prevent such pooling of the resin as it cures hard. I then thicken up the next layer of resin a bit, to radius the hard-edges in the cavity, and eventually graduate with light weight, then heavier layers of glass cloth.
However, I'll tint the first layer of resin so I can see things better. Look over the 212 threads by Chris and Manfred and you'll see the blue tint I put into those GRP hulls.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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No not at all- always done hard shell tools up until now for hulls, but have a master to mould in rubber, but I am going to lay that up in epoxy resin not polyester. Side steps the issue altogether, plus you get a very strong cast, and the pot life is longer.Comment
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Only polyester gelcoat resin that doesn't go off in rubber tools. Is it the bonda brand you've used?Comment
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I looked that up, and saw it's acrylic modified, which sounds good. I've used acrylic modified glues and they're incredibly tough. Do you know if you can you polish this stuff if it gets scratched?Comment
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