Type 212

[MFR1964]

Today i did some work on building the optical connector, also did some testing if the result was good, pictures.



I decided to use the optical fibers without the protecting sleeve, giving me more flexibility and lesser weight.



By using some small brass tubes i could root down the cables inside the upperpart.



This is my solution for making the optical connection, this is the part which produces the light, there is also a little magnet present in the middle to insure that the connection stays firm.



The other part which contains all optical fibers, i splitted the white one's up for getting more light at the rear top navlight.



With this part lighted up you can see it even better, one red, one green and two bright white leds.



I made two guiding pins for the intial fase of connecting, once this is done the magnets will take over.



I was really hoping to get this as the result, a much brighter light at the top navlight.



The red and green light are OK, but i want to have a go at building them the same as the rear top navlight, maybe the glow will be even more, the amount of light is more than enough and visible even with the lights at the workingbench on.
So, still some tinkering to do.

Manfred.

[trout]

Manfred,
The red LED looks dimmer than the others. It may not be what your doing, but more the output of that LED. Do you know what the MCD rating is for those? Replacing the resistor with one of lesser value will brighten it up, but at the expense of shortening its life. I have found it is better to buy a superbright LED and use resistors to bring down the brightness, than trying to "overclock" a standard LED. I am loving what you are doing. Once you have it dialed in, are you going to encapsulate the LEDs?

[MFR1964]

Tom,

I know allready by experience that red light is less visible by it's own, altering the resistor can be done, but i don't want to replace the resistor, like you said, too low of value and it will shorten the leds livetime, since i'm going to pour some 2K glue all over the electric connections i rather choose for less bright but a longer live, last thing will be, like you mentioned, encapsulating all electric components, then i can turn my attention to the magnetic on/off switch, still some room left to tuck it away.
I'll shoot a vid to show it in the real, then you can see that removing the upperpart also disconnects the connector without many force, you can easely lay your upperpart away without getting in trouble with the other connector containing the fibers.


Manfred.

[trout]

Manfred,
I know, me offering help is like a street bystander saying to Leonardo Da Vinci "Are you sure she should smile like that?". Please forgive me and I hope you do not take offense at me stating the obvious, you are way above me in experience and technologically minded. I really look forward to seeing your work.
Peace,
tom

[MFR1964]

Yes, you are right, where is my wine and bread !!!!, and i really need somebody to wave cool air day and night to refresh my genius mind.

Ok, let's be serious, i try to learn from every remark, you did a very nice job on the Gato, so unexperienced?, and i've seen you fiddling with the Aluminaut, hats off to you young boy!!!



Manfred.

[trout]

Thanks Manfred (fanning your head and pouring you another glass of wine). Now we both need to get back to work before there is a clap of thunder and you know who speaks.

[MFR1964]

(Whispering voice), he's ill, he's weak now, we can have him.


Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

...you two going to start picking out furniature now?

I need a shower!

[MFR1964]

Humor and agitation is the best medicine David, get well, to speed up your healing process i'll make a vid today of the lighting, be patient.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

As promised i made a short vid to show how things work in the real live, it seems to be simple, but it took a second try to get this working, enjoy watching.

Manfred.

[Subculture]

You mentioned that using SMD LED's was possible but corrosion caused problems. Have you tried potting the led's in water clear resin to seal them off from the damp?

[MFR1964]

Andy,

In the past i did several things with leds, for me it didn't matter which stuff i used to seal them off, tried 2K glue, clear epoxy, tooldip etc, it took some time but they failed, i think the main reason is the heat factor, we try to encapsulate the led, so heat can't get away ( think static display on land), so little unseen cracks appear, and like we all know, water is nasty stuff, especially in combination with electricity.
Maybe it's a idea to start up a thread with all our encounters for using lights on subs, so we get a central knowlegde bank, i really want to know if there is a permanent solution, would make live easier.


Manfred.

[greenman407]

Kevin Mcleod has been using LEDs for years and is very electrical savy. Ill bet hes got some input on this. Perhaps waterproof LEDs?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I run all my incandescent and LED completely wet. What little electrolysis damage to the positive side of things there is is minimal. But, IT'S VITAL that you don't seal the wires or leads as water will invariably get under the 'seal' and fester, corroding the wires underneath. We operate in fresh water (pure fresh water is a near perfect insulator), and the time current is charging through the light circuits is short, so what conduction there is between the wires (imperfect fresh-water is an electrolyte) is of low magnitude and not terribly destructive.

Insulate the bulbs, and you're asking for it!

[MFR1964]

David,

I think there is the point were we go wrong, we try to seal off everything, thinking that is the solution, instead we create a problem on itself, once sealed we are not able anymore to loose hidden water or to check up our components.
Here in the Netherlands they use Salt and Chlorine to keep the swimmingpools clean, even in the open water there is a tiny little amount of salt, it's no fresh water by all means, i think there is my problem.
I hope my use of optic cable will solve that issue for me, i do need to seal of my electrical components, but in such way that i can check them visually, so back to the cave it is.

Manfred.