A concept-design, the V60

[MFR1964]

A while back i had contact with Stefan Schmitz from SONAR germany, he asked me if i was interested in the V60, the concept-design before they opted to build the V80, he had 3D files of this boat, he was willing to print this boat for me in the lenght of about 1 meter, i've got me a ASA printed boat which i want to build as a beach sub, pretty much the same story as the allready build V80
V stands for Versuchsboote and the number for the tonnage, first some drawings










As you can see there are some features the same as on the V80, diigged into the archives and found the molds of the V80 parts i made in the past, this will give me a sound base from which i can build this boat.







In this state i've got the boat on the bench, i will use the radials cuts to snap this boat together with magnets, same story as with the XXIII and Ko Hyoteki, for now it's building a lot of bulkheads to get this puppy in one piece.

Manfred.

[rwtdiver]

Manfred,

Looking forward to this project. Very unique design, and your Bambu likes it to. The printed pieces look great...

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[MFR1964]

Thanks Rob, yeah it is a unique design, just made as a proposal for a design, never build in the past.
That printer is from Stefan, he made this hull for me.

Manfred.

[redboat219]

How's the ASA handling the heatwave.
Here in Paris for the week. Temperature is around 36-40s.

[MFR1964]

With those same tempartures around here nothing will stand in this blistering heat, even epoxy doesn"t like that, as for the ASA, the model is inside the cave, which has a temparture around 21 degrees Celsius, so no worries.
During sunny events i try to get my models in the shade, or protect them by covering them up during long periods when i don't drive them

Manfred.

[Subculture]

Printing it with radial splits rather than longitudinal/equatorial also helps enormously.

[MFR1964]

Agreed Andy, it makes live much easier to join all hull parts.

Making the bulkheads is laborius work, have to repeat this at least ten times, to break things up between working on the bulkheads i decided to get me some resin and do some pours to get me some parts


Retrieved the molds from the archives, secured them with rubber bands, allready poured the resin.


Ready to be pulled out of the molds.



Have to do some more pours, but i'm getting there, those are the same parts i used for my V80, have to de-flash them and shape them for the V60, because the hull is not exactly the same

It will take some weeks for finishing the bulkheads, ordered the needed magnets and copper tube i need to join the hull parts

Manfred.

[rwtdiver]

How's the ASA handling the heatwave.
Here in Paris for the week. Temperature is around 36-40s.

Romel,

I guess that could be considered hot in Paris! Here in the great state of Arizona (Phoenix/Gilbert) we are looking at 110 deg. plus, and on Wednesday this week we have a real scorcher 117 to 129 deg. Certainly not great for my PLA boats or my body for that matter...

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[MFR1964]

Some more progress on the build of the V60, bulkheads are done, still have to add the magnets.



Cleaned up the stabilisors, and cutted the upper and lower stabilisator to size.



Dugged up this jigg from the archives, it will be used to line up all stabilisators.



Modified the rudder, it's slightly different as the V80, had to pour some extra rudders to get all the parts.





The upperpart is also printed, Stefan was not sure if this was scale, it decided to get away the box part on top to get it more streamlined




First step, cutting off this ringsupport for the hatch, too big and too high.



Masked off the places not to be cut, want to make everything more streamlined.



First coat of filler, it will take some passes to get everything smooth, in the end i want to reiinforge the topdeck with some layers of glass cloth and hollow out the upperstructure, i suspect it will need at least four passes to get everything smooth.



Finished up the work on the bulkheads, for now they are tacked with some glue, this week the magnets arrived, so i can glue them in and glue the bulkheads all way around.



Just for fun, snapped the boat together to give a impression how things look once together, still a lot of things todo before she can see water.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

All bulkheads are glued all the way around, made some provisions to keep the SD inside the boat and did some serious work on the conningtower,


I decided to keep things simple and will re-use the SD from the Ko Hyoteki in such way i can use it for both models.


Designed the bulkheads in such way they will accept the SD by inserting it into the boat.


Roughly at the position i want to have it, time to place the brackets with the pins, which will hold the SD at it's place.





Pretty much the same way on both ends of the SD, little tubes on the pins will keep the SD at the desired position.


By keeping it upright in the vice the first bracket is glued down, when dried did the same with the front bracket.


Used loads of filler to get the desired shape of the conningtower, this was done in several steps of filling and sanding.





Using this device i was able to make a paper mold for the glass cloth.



Cuttted out the opening and laid down a layer with epoxy.


Trimmed it down and gave it a layer of pure epoxy, this way you will get rid of a lot of pin- holes and will give you a smooth surface to work on.


First layer of primer to see where i have to put some more filler.


Sanding the first layer of filler down, ready for the next layer of filler.


Last layer of filler, when done i will give it a coat of primer, that will be my startingpoint.

This was done last two weeks, now i'm in the process of placing the stabilisers, to be continued.

Manfred.

[JHapprich]

Cool stuff as always,Manfred!!!

[MFR1964]

Thanks Jorg, this project needs some elbow-grease but i got a nice headstart because Stefan has printed the hull for me, this alone gives you a advantage of 6 months building a master to get you a hull.

Last week i've being playing around with glueing the stabilators and made me a hatch, pictures,




By using the jigg i was able to line up the first one, this one is critical and needed to be square in all directions, ensuring the rest will also be placed in the right direction.


Taped off the hull against too much glue, and let her cure.


Once the upper was cured i could start with the rest, by using the jigg and some markings on the hull.


Two done, two to go, it goes pretty quick, just to be sure i made them cure for a day each.


Once all four where done i could slide off the jigg and was able to place both the rudder and divingplane.


It's looks pretty much the same way as with the V80, need to figure out how to control them without showing the steering-rods, the hull shape is slightly different , so i have to work with the space inside the hull, i can't copy the way i did this inside the V80.



And now my slight disorder for hatches, first step in the process, took a glass dome from a bulb-light and cutted it to size, made the ring to accept this dome and soldered it on some scrap-piece printplate
Cutted out the upper ring and added a lower ring , placed a small hinge to keep them together.


Made a hole in the upperstructure and added the hatch, on the right of the hatch you can see a small magnet in a housing, there is also a small magnet in the lower ring, this way the hatch will stay closed while diving.


It can be opened by using some force, from the V80 i know there will be a airbubble inside during diving, hence the use of magnets, hopefully they are strong enough to keep the hatch closed during diving.

For now i have to hollow out the upper structure, there seems be a support structure inside which can collect water, this i want to rule out, found this out while drilling the hole for the hatch.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Some steps further in the process, made a snap-on solution for keeping the upperpart locked, pretty much the same solution for the keel, hollowed out the upperpart, started to get some filler on the backpart, rudder and diveplanes,


First i made on the top and bottom tubes to hold the parts.


When the tubes were placed i could dril the holes for the pins, using the allready placed tubes as a guide.





The action needed for placing the upperpart, it's a friction fit, tight enough to keep it at it's place.





Pretty much the same action for the keel, by using both parts this way i can lock the hull even more, the pin and magnet approach is more then enough, but this way i don't need complicated contructions to keep all parts on the boat.


This is the support construction made during the 3D printing process, ASA is not watertight, so to avoid water inside the construction i had to hollow out most of the upperstructure.


By using the Dremel with a little cutterwheel this was removed, in the end i will seal up everything with some resin.


Applied first a coat of primer, sanded it down and added spray putty, to get the surface smooth you need at most two layers and sanding between those layers.


Closing the seems on the stabilisors with some filler, this was the second layer, for now i'm busy to give all hull parts the same procedures, learned that from playing with the rearpart, it will take some time to get all hull parts ready, plan of approach will be, give them all the first layer of spray putty, sand them down, next layer of putty, yet again sanding and see if i need some filler on other places.
My guess will be next week when i can put all parts in primer, from then i can think about the final colour for the boat

Manfred.

[Ken_NJ]

For the 'sail' you have tubes that slide into the hull and that is a friction fit? Enough to hold the sail on? You mentioned locking it in place, how? Magnets?

I am considering something similar on the XXIII. The sail halves can be taken apart. When joined, using tubes to slide into the decking, and magnets to keep it attached. Or some type of mechanism to keep it attached. In the Marlin with a removable sail I used threaded studs fastened in the sail and brass thumb nuts on the deck underside.

[MFR1964]

Ken, those pins are slightly off, which means, they fit inside the tubes but you need some force to place the upperpart, did a test how tight it was, i can lift the model by just holding the upperpart, it doesn't seperate at all, if needed in the future i can add some neodyne magnets.
My main goal is, taking the boat apart without any tool, tools tend to fall in the water, get lost or are forgotten to bring with yourself.

Manfred.