GATO! (It has begun)

[matthewnimmo]

Ok this makes sense.

1) were can i find that type of hose Lowes/homedepot?
2). So when i have it all hooked up im guessing i do the following
A) submerge wtc in a body of water like my tub
B) blow in the clear tub to see how the wtc reacts to pressure and see if i notice any airbunnles coming from somewhere
C) seal off the clear tub and run the LPB to creat a vacuum and see for what more airbubbles?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

1. 1/8" - 1/4" i.d. silicon hose at hobby shop
2. a) plug up the nipple atop the four-point manifold that normally makes up to the snorkel induction flexible hose and pinch the discharge hose atop the cylinder, between the motor-bulkhead manifold and the four-point manifold
b) grasp and apply inboard pressure to the forward and after bulkheads so they don't pop out underwater
c) turn the SD upside-down to flood the ballast tank
d) blow into the hose and look for air bubbles -- the location of the bubbles indicates a source of leaking.
e) fix

Creating a vacuum will only invite water into the SD through the leak source -- you won't find it that way.

M

[matthewnimmo]

Stupid question as my brain is numb today for whatever reason. Which tube is the discharge one that you are talking about David?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No problem. You should see the dumb-ass things I do on a 'bad' day! (some day I'll tell you about how I launched the garage door into the across-the-street guys drive-way).

Anyway ... Looking down on the two flexible hoses that are atop the cylinder, going into their respective nipples on the five-point manifold. It's the hose on the left (port) side.

M

[trout]

Ok this makes sense.

1) were can i find that type of hose Lowes/homedepot?
2). So when i have it all hooked up im guessing i do the following
A) submerge wtc in a body of water like my tub
B) blow in the clear tub to see how the wtc reacts to pressure and see if i notice any airbunnles coming from somewhere
C) seal off the clear tub and run the LPB to creat a vacuum and see for what more airbubbles?

I got my hose at home Depot. Mine is vinyl hose.
David addressed the rest.
I just want to emphasize hold the ends in. I blew out one side, but because of my cat like reflexes or just got lucky it was yanked out with minimum water in it.

[matthewnimmo]

So, i performed the blow test and it didnt yield any airbubble leaks. I tired multiple tries to be sure. So, i started some more trim tests with the sub.

1). Added more weight (more forward than aft). This produced a slight list starboard and bow heavy. Also, when i brought the sub up via the LPB the stern end came up but the bow stayed under. The WTC had water in the aft end but none in the battery compartment

2) removed one of the weights from the bow and adjusted another weight slightly to port. The listing stopped but it seemed like there wasnt enough weight to bring it under. The amount of water in the WTC i pumped out via LPB again and made sure i kept the pump engaged well beyound the slurping sound. It seemed by doing this there wasnt anymore water in any chamber

3). I added the weight back forward and aft. Then i rubber banded some foam forward and aft to the upper hull. What is wierd is that listing wasnt there and it had still too much buoyancy. No water in any chamber

4). Removed the extra foam pieces but kept the weights. Strange, seems like it still wont fully sink (but im fairly confident it would push under with the planes). Fully submerged buoyancy was around halfway up on the sail (so not too submerged)

notes:

not 100% sure but my leaking may had everything to do with not fully cycling SAS

still odd that my last test result was the same foam and weight as the first but the weight placement was slightly changed

im guessing i still need to add slight more weight either in the middle or both forward and aft to keep them level so the sub trim is less buoyant

*lastl*. I noticed that there seemed to be a lot of air bubbles still being trapped when submerging underneath the upper hull. Perhaps i need to drill more holes or maybe this will be fine when the unit is in motion

[trout]

Half way up the sail is good.
David mentioned this on another post, once you commence a blow of the tanks, you are committed to finish it. Trying to play with partial emptying of the tank will create a vacuum and not be able to get you off the bottom. Trimming is a fun time. It makes you want to pull your hair out, but the first time you take it out on a mission and it slides under the water with just the periscope breaking the surface and it rises on your command to waterline, it then becomes all worth it.
Where have you put holes already?

[matthewnimmo]

So, i shouldnt aim for more than halfway up the sail?

i followed your gato advice on were to put the holes. I have one forward/aft/and a good sized one in the sail that my wires are going down in

[trout]

The lower it sits in the water, the less forward motion needed to submerge. It also means you have that much less positive buoyancy to bring her up. Run it with it at half sail and see how it goes. I do not remember how many times I played until I was happy with the way it ran.

The aft end is an area that I needed to open up the hole a bit to make sure air left easy and the sail has several areas that can trap air. So one hole in the sail would not be enough, is it the sail that you see bubbles primarily?
I will get a few bubbles in the aft end (I am chuckling at that statement), there always seems to be a bubble here or there that dislodge as it runs. If it does not effect the subs trim, in the best Chicago accent fagetaboutit.
Peace,
Tom

[matthewnimmo]

Thanks Tom! I'll play a little more this weekend hopefully with the trim and such. Here's a laundry list of things i still need to address.

1) Trim and more trim until happy (i think i may have it, just want to confirm a few more trials)
2) Fix the damn bow plane retraction (think i have a game plan)
3) Fix my damn lights (i think i have a short...believe that's what was causing my issues). So, i need to identify in what wire am i having the issue and replace it. Also, rettached my magnets and load them up with the ignition grease as David suggested (if anyone else has a good suggestion on a better way of supplying power to my lights i'm curious to hear. As of right now i have two magnetic leads RTV'd into the forward bulkhead that magnets attach to).

THEN.

I plan on fitting my sub somehow with a live video camera (i've purchased this system so far)

http://www.amazon.com/Astek-Wireless-Security-Camera-CM-811T/dp/B000NZQO52

I like what David had posted on this thread about the headgear goggles in use with these cameras; but can't quite find the model he was using online. Any suggestions that would work with this system? Also, I noticed that David was using another wtc to house the camera and battery. Is that needed just for the battery or would the camera be damaged as well if it was in water (as i was thining about just housing the batter only in a WTC and possibly letting the camera get wet).

Thoughts on any of my ramblings?

[matthewnimmo]

Captain's Log:

1) I believe I have the trim were i want it. I'll do a pool test later were i can move her around some.

2) My stern plan servo took a **** ... so i had to replace that today. I think there was too much binding on it with the push rod. Adjusted the pushrod as well just in case.

3) Still getting damn leaks in ONLY the aft chamber. I'll have to do my blow test again i'm thinking, now i did notice a small area around one of the push rods that might be light on the RTV, so i applied more there.

4) My ADF2 is backwards. When the model is oriented to dive the planes are signalling a rise....not fun. Any easy fix for this besides having to reprogram it? I thought there was a simple solution to this? I did try reversing the servo on the remote; but that didn't work.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Captain's Log:

1) I believe I have the trim were i want it. I'll do a pool test later were i can move her around some.

2) My stern plan servo took a **** ... so i had to replace that today. I think there was too much binding on it with the push rod. Adjusted the pushrod as well just in case.

3) Still getting damn leaks in ONLY the aft chamber. I'll have to do my blow test again i'm thinking, now i did notice a small area around one of the push rods that might be light on the RTV, so i applied more there.

4) My ADF2 is backwards. When the model is oriented to dive the planes are signalling a rise....not fun. Any easy fix for this besides having to reprogram it? I thought there was a simple solution to this? I did try reversing the servo on the remote; but that didn't work.

1. Fine

2. Rune a .067" bit through the seal bore and swivel the bit around a bit

3. Good move

4. The ONLY thing to do is read the ADF2's *** instructions and FOLLOW them .... how hard is it to push the damned set-up button???!!!!!

M

[Albion]

Reading instructions is for girls

[Subculture]

Could do with a few lasses in this hobby!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Agreed, Andy.

Unfortunately the only 'girl' I know who's any good at this hobby is the proud recipient of a sex-change.

Yuck!

M