Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

New WTC From Bob Martin

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • New WTC From Bob Martin

    I got my new 80 mm WTC from Bob today. And it is a wonderful piece of equipment.
    Here is my question, has anyone one made up a schematic of how all it is wired together?
    I am guessing that the air pump ESC will go to the left stick. Up you would pump air in, down you would pump air out.
    Has anyone put one of the 80mm WTC into their sub yet?
    I have gone thru most of Bob's video's and have not seen anything on to make all the connections.
    Bill
    Athens Ga.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Hill Bill,

    I have a 70 mm WTC coming from Bob. If the WTC unit did not come with a wiring schematic, maybe he will see this post and put up a wiring diagram here!? I am sure it would be helpful for all those that may be somewhat new to the hobby!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Comment


    • #3
      R & R cylinders employ a water pump.
      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey guys,

        If this system is like other pump-based systems, the wiring between the main drive motors and servos should be the same as any other RC-sub. In other words, the motors can be either wired in parallel or series and then connected to an ESC, or each motor can be connected to its own ESC and the two ESCs then connected to the receiver and main battery. If you plan on using a servo to activate the pump motor, then you would need to use a micro switch connected between the pump and the main battery.

        Nate

        Comment


        • #5
          Nate & Bill,

          If you look at Bob's YouTube that explains the 80 mm and the 70 mm WTC operation, he states that you need 2 ESC's one for the drive motor, and one for the pump motor!? I ordered 2 of the 10 Mini ESC's For my 70 mm WTC. One goes to the RX for your propulsion (throttle) system, and the other to your RX for the (water in & out) pump control.

          Rob
          "Firemen can stand the heat"

          Comment


          • #6
            Rob,

            That’s correct as well! You can use a second ESC to run the pump if you want bidirectional and proportional control on the ballast pump. Two micro-switches can also run the pump bi-directionality but without proportional control, and you would need a servo to activate the switches.

            Nate

            Comment


            • #7
              Rob
              Yes, I saw that but how do they wire in, left stick channel?
              Bob YouTube is great for selling an 80 or 70mm WTC but not for installing one.
              When I called him to order one, he did tell me that no paperwork would come with it.
              That is why I was reaching out here.
              Bill

              Comment


              • #8
                Typical remote channel layout

                Left stick up and down = forward/reverse
                Left stick side to side = left/flood ballast tank, right blow ballast tank
                Right stick up and down = bow planes dive or surface
                Right stick side to side = move rudder left or right

                5th or extra channel = stern planes manual or over ride( if using automatic pitch control) up or down

                Comment


                • #9
                  Guys,

                  Just like in an OTW cylinder, you keep the pump on Channel 4 (left stick, horizontal) and the throttle stays on Channel 3. Pretty much the same as in any of our cylinders, using Channel 4 to run the Blow/Vent servo, only in this case we're pushing water. The Thunder Tiger Neptune works the same way. Power wiring should be pretty easy. Input tapped off the main battery, then the motor leads to the appropriate mover. Testing on the bench, with a water source to the pump should tell you if you have those leads hooked up correctly. Or, you can wait until sea trials and see how it plays then, making the correction upon retrieval, as may be required. Maybe as simple as reversing the servo input in the transmitter. Sometimes that doesn't work, though.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by cgbillb View Post
                    Rob
                    Yes, I saw that but how do they wire in, left stick channel?
                    Bob YouTube is great for selling an 80 or 70mm WTC but not for installing one.
                    When I called him to order one, he did tell me that no paperwork would come with it.
                    That is why I was reaching out here.
                    Bill
                    Bill,

                    As for the wiring on the ESC, it is typical ESC wiring system as with airplane, or surface boat. I you are using the 10 Mini ESC that Bob (Nautilus Drydocks) sells, there is an instruction sheet with a wiring diagram that comes with the ESC. I hope the photo is OK! Might be of some use to you!

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	ESC 111111111.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	79.4 KB
ID:	157845

                    As to Transmitter function, Nick, and wlambing have it correct.

                    Rob
                    "Firemen can stand the heat"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks guys it all helps
                      Bill
                      Athens Ga.
                      Home of the National Champion Bulldogs

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Got this from Bob Gaito
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	PC050040.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	45.2 KB
ID:	157886
                        Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
                          Got this from Bob Gaito
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	PC050040.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	45.2 KB
ID:	157886
                          Perfect!

                          Thanks to Bob Gaito for the diagram, and thanks to Romel for posting it!

                          Rob
                          "Firemen can stand the heat"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Original question seemed like less of a wiring theme and more of a setup theme. As others have posted, ballast in a 4 channel radio is typically channel 4 (left stick horizontal). If you have an open 3 position latching switch, that is ideal as it is full vent/neutral/full blow. ESC's don't so much care about the proportional voltage, but if you have a solenoid in your ballast setup, they like full voltage.

                            Bob

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X