Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

New Trumpeter Kilo 1:144 Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #91

    Comment


    • #92
      Tiny seam, but I am ok with it

      Comment


      • #93
        Since I use in my saltwater pool, and have to run the RX antenna up an antenna rod which will stay above the water I am going to use 2.4 Ghz system and give Bobs 2.4 Ghz antenna extension tutorial a go. RX & TX should arrive today. I chose the Flysky FS-i6xF. I learned years ago not to use a TX that has a moveable antenna, they always break.
        Last edited by biggsgolf; 02-20-2021, 10:07 AM.

        Comment


        • #94
          Finishing touches on the hull seams…. using a heating blanket Click image for larger version

Name:	B7C95D4C-F552-49A9-AA4B-5965F9760F80.jpeg
Views:	77
Size:	77.2 KB
ID:	147729

          Comment


          • #95
            Replacing servo connecter wires with navigation lighting wires. Will connect to channel 6.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
              Replacing servo connecter wires with navigation lighting wires. Will connect to channel 6.
              Exacly how does that work? You solder a LED on + and signal and switch it on by activatiting the specific channel?

              Jörg

              Comment


              • #97
                Correct, I solder all LED’s, then spray Tech Spray Turbo Coat, then seal with Heat Shrink.

                Comment


                • #98
                  I also use a waterproof connector ( available on Nautilus Drydocks) on the wet side which then feeds the lights in the upper hull

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    Click image for larger version  Name:	1EEE1BDD-F55F-4015-9E4E-7DB686840B7D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	69.7 KB ID:	148025Click image for larger version  Name:	ECB47F02-02D5-4CA5-9AA5-6ACC6EF0BB1D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	93.4 KB ID:	148027



                    Happy to reprt that I successfully completed attaching a testing RG-178 Coax to the RX. The wet side will be set inside a Mast. Also installed a switch (under the blue tape). LED cabling has been run thru the bulkhead as has the RG-178 Coax. Please know that the RG-178 comes in various diameters. The photo of the Navi Lights is to show that I flattened them to make it easier to mount to the Sail Walls. Being 1:144 Scale I am going to make holes in the Sail and mount them inside, not protruding thru the holes as they would be huge! I am also installing a White Rudder light and an amber blinking Mast Light.



                    Click image for larger version  Name:	95F32CA0-A61C-4B7A-BB09-31935E3BD562.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	89.3 KB ID:	148021Click image for larger version  Name:	21D7BDA4-3EF3-4F5B-9A9F-2E74126FC86C.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	88.7 KB ID:	148022Click image for larger version  Name:	ECB47F02-02D5-4CA5-9AA5-6ACC6EF0BB1D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	93.4 KB ID:	148023Click image for larger version  Name:	ECB47F02-02D5-4CA5-9AA5-6ACC6EF0BB1D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	93.4 KB ID:	148026
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by biggsgolf; 03-03-2021, 06:21 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Light Leads assembled Click image for larger version

Name:	E9D69E8F-6574-4EEC-990E-910E6102BBF1.jpeg
Views:	34
Size:	65.9 KB
ID:	148146Click image for larger version

Name:	796A2702-6A69-408E-B813-B5F21E6A2ADA.jpeg
Views:	32
Size:	76.2 KB
ID:	148147

                      Comment


                      • Nice job grafting those metal antennas and scopes atop aluminum tubes. Much neater looking.

                        You screwed up, the anchor-stern light goes atop that fairing you have yet to glue atop the turtle-back. And it's not the, 'marker-buoy' lamp. You're way off the mark. Fix it!

                        And I don't want to hear any of that, "It's all good, just do what you want, as long as you're happy" horse-****! It's either right or it's ****ing wrong. Do it right! Error for lack of documentation is excusable. Error through sloth, in the face of corrective documentation, is criminal!

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	image_46597.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	43.7 KB
ID:	148151

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	02.jpg Views:	0 Size:	37.6 KB ID:	148150Click image for larger version  Name:	5-30-2019 (16).JPG Views:	0 Size:	51.9 KB ID:	148152Click image for larger version  Name:	5-30-2019 (19).JPG Views:	0 Size:	48.6 KB ID:	148153

                        David
                        Stomping Feet Furiously!
                        Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 03-09-2021, 04:50 PM.
                        Resident Luddite

                        Comment


                        • Hahaha, consider it done!!!!!!

                          Comment


                          • What color of red is best for the lower hull?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
                              What color of red is best for the lower hull?
                              Good question. It's close enough to the look of formula-121 anti-foul red (most often used on American boats that use an off-black anti-foul) to not matter once you apply your 'weathering' effects over it. If anything, the Ruski anti-foul is a tad brighter -- more to the red, and less to the American red-brown (brick-red I've heard it called) of 121.

                              Damn you!... I have to get off my fat ass to check my Federal Standard chips.... wait one.

                              OK. If you have your local DuPont paint dealer at hand tell them to mix you up a quart of RS661K (Sherwin-Williams might cross to that number) for a near dead ringer for forumula-121. In the absence of that, mix your own to chip 22203 out of the Federal Standards 595a chip cards. The best match I've found, using the same reference, is 12197 for the Commie boats.

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0083 (2).JPG
Views:	46
Size:	97.5 KB
ID:	148157Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF9608.JPG
Views:	37
Size:	81.0 KB
ID:	148158Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1017.JPG
Views:	36
Size:	59.4 KB
ID:	148159Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1037.JPG
Views:	39
Size:	70.1 KB
ID:	148160

                              Rotsa Ruck!

                              David
                              Resident Luddite

                              Comment


                              • Thanks David, now sit your ass back down and have some dinner!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X