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New Trumpeter Kilo 1:144 Build

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  • #16
    Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
    Well, looks like I got bad intel, back to square one I go........ thanks guys for the call outs. Any good sources for the correct props in 3/4”, 1”, both 2MM bore with set screw?
    I sent all my fittings kits tools and parts to Bob -- check with him for the propellers you need.

    David
    Resident Luddite

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    • #17
      Thanks David, I will

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      • #18
        Is this the Soryu prop type?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
          Is this the Soryu prop type?
          If the SORYU was an export version of the KILO, yeah. As to what boat actually has what type propeller, I can only rely on the internet. Don't agonize too much; don't let perfection be the enemy of good enough.

          Just finish the damned thing and go play and have fun. At some point pragmatism is your friend.

          David
          Resident Luddite

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          • #20
            Thanks David, I admit to feeling that way!

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            • #21
              Adhering the Upper and Lower Hull brackets
              Last edited by biggsgolf; 01-20-2021, 04:48 PM.

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              • #22
                Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by biggsgolf; 01-20-2021, 04:52 PM.

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                • #23
                  And the Lower Hull Bow Screw Guide Click image for larger version

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                  • #24
                    I will likely further strengthen these brackets with either fiberglass cloth and West Marine Epoxy or Rage Body Filler

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                    • #25
                      @David Merriman , David, how do you attain the Tower “White Washed Effect” as illustrated below
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
                        @David Merriman , David, how do you attain the Tower “White Washed Effect” as illustrated below
                        A submarine, or any ship for that matter, evidences rain-water run-off to one degree or another, this vertical streaking most evident on black paint -- that's why you see it so prominently on black submarines and not on haze gray surface ships. Plotting where and how this lighter colored 'streaking' goes down is easy, think like a raindrop (or spilled paint, hydraulic fluid, or egg goo (the games drunk sailor's play when coming back to their ship after a nights heavy drinking) -- a raindrop subject to gravity. Raindrops that carry dust particles, shoe grime, welding slag, spilt paint thinner, bird-****, and other stuff down the sides of the submarines above waterline structures.



                        It's best to practice the streaking -- or any other weathering technique new to you -- on a discarded hull. Like this old 1/144 SEAWOLF hull. My favored light colored vertical streaking medium is water soluble acrylic paints -- the cheap stuff you get from Walmart is just fine. Once dry, it's no longer water soluble!

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                        Another test article for practicing weathering techniques and mediums before committing to an actual display model. In this case my old 1/96 DANIEL WEBSTER (I later sanded off all the gunk and that model is now scheduled for completion this year). Note the use of a right-angle triangle to guide the paint brush to insure perfectly vertical swipes of paint down the sides of the hull.

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                        And here's the streaking technique committed to this 1/60 ALBACORE display piece. The streaking will be overstated, as you can see here, but that's fine, it will later be muted to some degree by vertical swipes of an air-brush loaded with black -- the final arbiter as to how prominent the vertical streaking will be before laying down the protective clear-coat.



                        Brushes are not the only tool you can use to lay down and maneuver weathering mediums. Experiment! Think outside the box. Fingers, rags, fiberglass abrasive brushes, abrasive air-guns, these and more produce interesting effects when pushing mediums around on the model.

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                        The after portions of hull have been streaked. The forward areas are the same, but have been muted with vertical passes with a black loaded air-brush. This is how you control the density of the streaking.

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                        Pre-muting of the 1/144 KILO sail.

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                        Oil paints are also used for streaking. Particularly in areas where its impractical to come back with black muting with the air-brush, such as this paint streaking represented emanating from freshly applied hull numbers.

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                        counter-shading to give the illusion of transparent dead-lights. Applying a clear gloss-coat over the dead-lights completes the illusion.

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                        Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 01-22-2021, 06:26 AM.
                        Resident Luddite

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                        • #27
                          Biggsgolf,
                          Other than the WTC cradles, does the fittings kit include resin (or 3D printed) rudder/dive planes?
                          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

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                          • #28
                            Thanks David!

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                            • #29
                              redboat219 the fittings kit for the Kilo does not require 3D printed rudder/dive planes. The Soryu kit does include them.

                              https://www.rcshipyard.com/produkt/f...rumpeter-kilo/

                              https://www.rcshipyard.com/kilo-1144/

                              https://www.rcshipyard.com/produkt/t...er-bow-planes/

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                              • #30
                                I have been brain storming about the durability of the masts. I was going to use magnets for each antenna/periscope but I am leaning toward making the sail magnetized for removal. Click image for larger version

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