New Trumpeter Kilo 1:144 Build
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I created a groove in the dive planes cradle to hold the lighting and antenna wires to rest in place against the cylinder -
Thanks Bob! It feels really good to be using 2.4GHz. So many options available for failsafes, trimming and ability to monitor onboard battery info. Your conversion info using RG-178 coax has been my bible and was spot on!! I cannot thank you, David and others enough for tutoring me as I have progressed in this new hobby wonderful hobby.Leave a comment:
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Beautiful build! Looking forward to wet-trials.
I like to point out that the 2.4GHz is suitable for both fresh and salt water. The more I play with the high frequency radios, the more I like them. My latest Vanguard build will have a 2.4 system in it.
BobLeave a comment:
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Meanwhile, time to paint. Will be using an Airbrush for the first time!Leave a comment:
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She is fully trimmed, surprisingly stable, we shall see when she is transported to my sub compound…….Leave a comment:
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One note, yesterday I exprienced a small water leak. After re greasing the O’rings still leaked. Today I removed the O’rings and discovered one was dabbed with what seemed to be a tiny bit of adhesive…. I removed what I could, re greased and all seems good now. I will be replacing with a new seal to be safe. No electronic damage was incurred.Leave a comment:
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Actually, submerged trim is next and I won’t raise the stern as after submerge she is level. Since I driver her in salt water she will sit a bit higher surfaced.Leave a comment:
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Installed an Emcotec DPSI Nano Magnet Switch which works thru the hull.Leave a comment:
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Should you revisit the hard-to-install LED placement, you might consider routing an inexpensive fiber optic cable to the location, illuminated by a remote LED. The LED can be mounted somewhere convenient -even in the WTC.
Fibers have lots of useful applications in a hobby like this. I've used polished fibers with small lenses to couple light to a CCD video camera as well. That could be very cool placed in the sail cavity of the ship's whistle. The fiber works in the water and the camera electronics is stored within a sealed area - similar to our modern photonic masts.
For the LED application, the black, plastic jacket around the end of the fiber is removed, (similar to stripping insulation from a wire, only you don't want to nick the fiber since the light reflects off the interior) and the exposed end is bonded to a small hole drilled in the desired location. Instant running light!
For those who've fooled around with building electronic gadgets anytime in the last forty years, Forest Mims is the Godfather of DIY projects. He explains how to work with an LED source to drive photons through a 2.2mm fiber in this link: https://makezine.com/projects/how-to...s-and-sensors/
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