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jims Tyhpoon TK-208 build

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  • Jim,

    I've built three subs using the Engel Piston tanks, two detailed on this site.

    On both occasions I used simple small nitrile O rings and shaft collars to form a seal on both ends of the prop shaft. Here is the outer hull end of a 4mm prop shaft..........

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0787 (800x600).jpg Views:	1 Size:	223.3 KB ID:	119165







    ..................and here is the inner end of the shaft..................

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0841 (800x600).jpg Views:	1 Size:	238.5 KB ID:	119610

    .................with two locking bolts up to the O ring.

    By compressing the O rings a litlle (not enough to strain the motor) a tight seal is made that can withstand the pressure of the WTC filling with air when the tanks are full of water. I know a few people (including Engel) have questioned this approach but it works and the O rings hardly ever wear out.

    If you want to spend money, Rabosech do a line of fully sealed prop shafts (same principle as mine, there's a compressed O ring in the bulge at the end), a pair will set you back around 100 bucks.

    Both my method and the Raboesch prop shafts are superior to the Engel silicone hose method in my view.
    Image result for raboesch prop shafts for submarines




    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-13-2019, 04:48 PM.
    ''We're after men, and I wish to God I was with them........!''

    Comment


    • Here is what the Akula Instructions say:


      MAIN DRIVE UNIT
      The next step is mounting the main drive unit (motor with gear box). We recommend to use a low voltage battery (i.e. 2.4 V) to check for optimal positioning of all parts of the drive gear (at a later stage). Check the direction of rotation of the drive motor. Mark the correct polarity on the motor housing. Furthermore, a third lead should be soldered to the motor housing. This lead is to be connected to the minus (-) pole of the battery or to the ground sockets of the switch unit (TAE and TAES only). This will help to minimize possible radio interference of the drive unit. If this should prove to be inadequate (in case that the speed controller used is too sensitive to interference) we recommend to use a HF-coil (not included). The closer the speed controller is placed to the motor the lower is the probability of interference. The bore for the bearing of the prop shaft must be drilled into the bulkhead with great care. Start with a 5 mm bit and widen this bore to dia. 8 mm. Fit the drive unit into the bores of the bulkhead. The hole in the bulkhead for the bearing tube of the drive shaft must be large enough, so that tube can be turned on the shaft without friction. Now connect the drive shaft with coupling (No. 5) to prop shaft (No. 8). The prop shaft with bearing will now re-position of the drive unit. Place a spacer (approx. 5 mm thick) onto the thread of the prop shaft and secure with a nut. By turning the nut on the prop shaft the main drive is set in its optimal position on the bulkhead. For the following steps it is best to place the hull vertically on its bow and secure it in this position. Make sure that the prop shaft bearing does not fall through its bore. Turn the nut on the prop shaft so that the drive unit is drawn outwards until the brass inserts protrude about 1 mm. Now connect a low voltage battery (i.e. 2.4 V) to the drive engine. See if the unit runs smoothly. If not readjust the setup. The drive unit must run without friction as otherwise the gear unit will be noisy.

      After the drive unit has been properly adjusted glue both brass inserts with Epoxy into the bulkhead. MAKE SURE that no glue runs into the drive unit! First apply only a small amount of Epoxy so that it runs into the groove of the insert. Leave to set and fill-up the gaps with some more glue. This will allow easy dismounting and remounting if necessary.

      Before gluing the bearing tube for the drive shaft to the bulkhead, sand the outer rim of the tube to receive a (almost) sharp edge. This will make it easier to push the sealing tube (cut from PVC tubing supplied) over the tubing at a later stage.

      Glue the plastic bearing for the prop shaft in position without removing the shaft. MAKE SURE not to glue the shaft to the bearing.


      The drive shaft coming out of the bearing tube is sealed with a short piece of PVC tubing supplied (inner dia. 3.5 mm). Do not use Silicone tubing as replacement. By placing the PVC in hot (not boiling!) water makes the material softer. Now it will be easier to push the tubing over the bearing tube. The drive unit is now re-mounted to the bulkhead so that both drive shafts protrude the bearing tubes.

      IMPORTANT: Ensure that the tubing overlaps the drive shaft by exactly 3 mm (see plan) - not more and not less. If the overlap of the tubing is too short it might not be sufficiently watertight. An overlap of more than 3 mm will cause excessive friction so that the seal wears-off rapidly.

      The control rods for rudders and dive planes pass through the bulkhead to the aft section of the hull. The exit holes for the control rod should be have been drilled into the bulkhead before gluing the bulkhead into the lower hull. Glue two pieces of brass tube (dia. 3/2.2 x 20 mm) into the bulkhead with Epoxy. Insert the control rod, connect the clevis and ensure that the linkage is in line with the bearing tube before the glue has set. The linkage is sealed at the exit with a rubber gasket. The larger opening of the gasket is pushed onto the bearing tube. The difference in diameter is compensated by a piece of Silicone tubing.

      The pressure switch will be connected to an inlet tube by a piece of Silicone tubing dia. 3x1 mm at a later stage. You can prepare for this now by cutting two pieces of brass tube dia. 3/2.2 mm and gluing one piece into the nozzle of the pressure switch and a second piece into the hull (please refer to the plan for exact location).


      And here are the internal plans:

      Attached Files
      Last edited by trout; 05-14-2019, 11:34 AM.
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment


      • Just for confirmation; Silicon tube won't work. Engle uses PVC tube which does work quite well.

        Comment


        • Hi Bob,

          So if im correct I would use 1/8 " shafts on this set up you have does it still use the existing motor, drive and the stuff down below the water tight housing. If you can show picture, post it here of the system. I will be able to it understand even better

          thanks bob very interested
          best to you
          Jim
          Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-16-2019, 12:15 PM.
          Put your mind to it. If there's a will there's a way!

          Comment


          • Originally posted by trout View Post
            Here is what the Akula Instructions say:





            And here are the internal plans:

            thank you helps !
            Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-16-2019, 02:22 AM.
            Put your mind to it. If there's a will there's a way!

            Comment


            • Originally posted by The Boattrainman View Post
              Jim,

              I've built three subs using the Engel Piston tanks, two detailed on this site.

              On both occasions I used simple small nitrile O rings and shaft collars to form a seal on both ends of the prop shaft. Here is the outer hull end of a 4mm prop shaft..........










              The Boattrainman
              Im impressed o ring just tight enough to keep the water out but not to strained the motor this gives me great ideas for future builds just brilliant I say

              thanks
              Jim
              Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-16-2019, 02:26 AM.
              Put your mind to it. If there's a will there's a way!

              Comment


              • Brass plumbing compression fittings. Scrap the brass insert, add two o-rings and you're done...
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • Bob just plumping parts you get from home depot ? I can see the rubber oring will last longer then the tubing as you mentioned I have those parts in my garage just sitting. I should put them to work. Question long does the clear tubing usually last in your opinion

                  Jim
                  Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-15-2019, 03:51 PM.
                  Put your mind to it. If there's a will there's a way!

                  Comment


                  • Compressed O ring again, same principle, different way to the same result, the only reliable long term solution in my view. Ditch Engel's hose solution.........!



                    Rob
                    ''We're after men, and I wish to God I was with them........!''

                    Comment

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