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jims Tyhpoon TK-208 build

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    Looking forward to updates, Jim! The missiles sound great. If you have time, more info would be appreciated by all, I'm sure!

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  • deepseadiver
    replied
    looks like during Christmas holidays i will have free time to work on my typhoon. The company I work for will be closed for one week so I plan to work on the sub 8 hours a day just like my job, I should get a lot of progress done. What's left to do is complete the conning tower, test the water tight container pressurize it and test it in in my neighbors pool, check for bubbles, fix all leaks . Then install the electrical components get everything working correctly. Then paint job which will have a lot of detail that's what makes the sub stand out, its always all about the detail. Once the submarine is complete I have a water pressurized rocket system I painstakingly worked on for 2 months with many trials, and failures, but finally succeeded made a water rocket witch gets filled with water, and pressurized air, using a small electric bike pump with 15 to 20 lbs to fill them then hand insert them into lunch tubes . A special release plug, using a metal, and rubber seal, which is activated by a servo, will lunch water missile, out of a fiberglass, tube I made. I can get it about 10 to 12 feet high no higher but it will look cool. I will need to cut out two missile hatches up on top, of submarine it's a good place to locate the lunching system . I will use a small servo, make it water proof, it will open and close the missile doors.That's my plans after I get the sub working perfect . All for now.
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 10-23-2019, 11:00 PM.

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  • reddevil
    replied
    You better tan nobody else can see how things work for you and if the results of your experiences fulfill your expectatives. Opinions are like asxxs and bellies: Everybody has a couple of them so, keep going and sharing. I've learned a lot in this forum and are using that for my models. The results depend only on my skills.

    Leave a comment:


  • deepseadiver
    replied
    well spoken words indeed. I see something I don't like yes going to ignore it . I'm a optimistic person I just cant let negative people push my buttons. I will be posting soon thanks for the vote of confidence you have in me much appreciated

    Jim
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 10-23-2019, 10:03 PM.

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    Jim,


    You'll often find what you look for. I, for one, am anxious to see more progress on this build and to see the boat in the water.

    We've beaten this horse to death already. Post away, and if you come across something you don't like, ignore it and move on. The internet is full of people with opinions. You won't get away from that unless you hole up and stop reaching out. Rest assured, there are people interested in your work and willing to help. Decide for yourself if the chaff is worth it to you or not.


    Bob

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  • deepseadiver
    replied
    Wanted to take a look here at drydocks see if anything is happening. checking up on comments . I don't see any waves depth charges torpedo's maybe I will continue the build its all about respect for each other nothing good to say then im sure you know what i will say. .
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 09-05-2019, 09:52 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Compressed O ring again, same principle, different way to the same result, the only reliable long term solution in my view. Ditch Engel's hose solution.........!



    Rob

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  • deepseadiver
    replied
    Bob just plumping parts you get from home depot ? I can see the rubber oring will last longer then the tubing as you mentioned I have those parts in my garage just sitting. I should put them to work. Question long does the clear tubing usually last in your opinion

    Jim
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-15-2019, 04:51 PM.

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    Brass plumbing compression fittings. Scrap the brass insert, add two o-rings and you're done...
    Attached Files

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  • deepseadiver
    replied
    Originally posted by The Boattrainman View Post
    Jim,

    I've built three subs using the Engel Piston tanks, two detailed on this site.

    On both occasions I used simple small nitrile O rings and shaft collars to form a seal on both ends of the prop shaft. Here is the outer hull end of a 4mm prop shaft..........










    The Boattrainman
    Im impressed o ring just tight enough to keep the water out but not to strained the motor this gives me great ideas for future builds just brilliant I say

    thanks
    Jim
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-16-2019, 03:26 AM.

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  • deepseadiver
    replied
    Originally posted by trout View Post
    Here is what the Akula Instructions say:





    And here are the internal plans:

    D M & T C attacked me on this forum made things miserable for me & others made me quit the sub club no forgiveness and do not except apologies just attack
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 07-07-2019, 02:08 AM.

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  • deepseadiver
    replied
    Hi Bob,

    So if im correct I would use 1/8 " shafts on this set up you have does it still use the existing motor, drive and the stuff down below the water tight housing. If you can show picture, post it here of the system. I will be able to it understand even better

    thanks bob very interested
    best to you
    Jim
    Last edited by deepseadiver; 05-16-2019, 01:15 PM.

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  • HardRock
    replied
    Just for confirmation; Silicon tube won't work. Engle uses PVC tube which does work quite well.

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  • trout
    replied
    Here is what the Akula Instructions say:


    MAIN DRIVE UNIT
    The next step is mounting the main drive unit (motor with gear box). We recommend to use a low voltage battery (i.e. 2.4 V) to check for optimal positioning of all parts of the drive gear (at a later stage). Check the direction of rotation of the drive motor. Mark the correct polarity on the motor housing. Furthermore, a third lead should be soldered to the motor housing. This lead is to be connected to the minus (-) pole of the battery or to the ground sockets of the switch unit (TAE and TAES only). This will help to minimize possible radio interference of the drive unit. If this should prove to be inadequate (in case that the speed controller used is too sensitive to interference) we recommend to use a HF-coil (not included). The closer the speed controller is placed to the motor the lower is the probability of interference. The bore for the bearing of the prop shaft must be drilled into the bulkhead with great care. Start with a 5 mm bit and widen this bore to dia. 8 mm. Fit the drive unit into the bores of the bulkhead. The hole in the bulkhead for the bearing tube of the drive shaft must be large enough, so that tube can be turned on the shaft without friction. Now connect the drive shaft with coupling (No. 5) to prop shaft (No. 8). The prop shaft with bearing will now re-position of the drive unit. Place a spacer (approx. 5 mm thick) onto the thread of the prop shaft and secure with a nut. By turning the nut on the prop shaft the main drive is set in its optimal position on the bulkhead. For the following steps it is best to place the hull vertically on its bow and secure it in this position. Make sure that the prop shaft bearing does not fall through its bore. Turn the nut on the prop shaft so that the drive unit is drawn outwards until the brass inserts protrude about 1 mm. Now connect a low voltage battery (i.e. 2.4 V) to the drive engine. See if the unit runs smoothly. If not readjust the setup. The drive unit must run without friction as otherwise the gear unit will be noisy.

    After the drive unit has been properly adjusted glue both brass inserts with Epoxy into the bulkhead. MAKE SURE that no glue runs into the drive unit! First apply only a small amount of Epoxy so that it runs into the groove of the insert. Leave to set and fill-up the gaps with some more glue. This will allow easy dismounting and remounting if necessary.

    Before gluing the bearing tube for the drive shaft to the bulkhead, sand the outer rim of the tube to receive a (almost) sharp edge. This will make it easier to push the sealing tube (cut from PVC tubing supplied) over the tubing at a later stage.

    Glue the plastic bearing for the prop shaft in position without removing the shaft. MAKE SURE not to glue the shaft to the bearing.


    The drive shaft coming out of the bearing tube is sealed with a short piece of PVC tubing supplied (inner dia. 3.5 mm). Do not use Silicone tubing as replacement. By placing the PVC in hot (not boiling!) water makes the material softer. Now it will be easier to push the tubing over the bearing tube. The drive unit is now re-mounted to the bulkhead so that both drive shafts protrude the bearing tubes.

    IMPORTANT: Ensure that the tubing overlaps the drive shaft by exactly 3 mm (see plan) - not more and not less. If the overlap of the tubing is too short it might not be sufficiently watertight. An overlap of more than 3 mm will cause excessive friction so that the seal wears-off rapidly.

    The control rods for rudders and dive planes pass through the bulkhead to the aft section of the hull. The exit holes for the control rod should be have been drilled into the bulkhead before gluing the bulkhead into the lower hull. Glue two pieces of brass tube (dia. 3/2.2 x 20 mm) into the bulkhead with Epoxy. Insert the control rod, connect the clevis and ensure that the linkage is in line with the bearing tube before the glue has set. The linkage is sealed at the exit with a rubber gasket. The larger opening of the gasket is pushed onto the bearing tube. The difference in diameter is compensated by a piece of Silicone tubing.

    The pressure switch will be connected to an inlet tube by a piece of Silicone tubing dia. 3x1 mm at a later stage. You can prepare for this now by cutting two pieces of brass tube dia. 3/2.2 mm and gluing one piece into the nozzle of the pressure switch and a second piece into the hull (please refer to the plan for exact location).


    And here are the internal plans:

    Attached Files
    Last edited by trout; 05-14-2019, 12:34 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Jim,

    I've built three subs using the Engel Piston tanks, two detailed on this site.

    On both occasions I used simple small nitrile O rings and shaft collars to form a seal on both ends of the prop shaft. Here is the outer hull end of a 4mm prop shaft..........

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0787 (800x600).jpg Views:	1 Size:	223.3 KB ID:	119165






    ..................and here is the inner end of the shaft..................

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0841 (800x600).jpg Views:	1 Size:	238.5 KB ID:	119610

    .................with two locking bolts up to the O ring.

    By compressing the O rings a litlle (not enough to strain the motor) a tight seal is made that can withstand the pressure of the WTC filling with air when the tanks are full of water. I know a few people (including Engel) have questioned this approach but it works and the O rings hardly ever wear out.

    If you want to spend money, Rabosech do a line of fully sealed prop shafts (same principle as mine, there's a compressed O ring in the bulge at the end), a pair will set you back around 100 bucks.

    Both my method and the Raboesch prop shafts are superior to the Engel silicone hose method in my view.
    Image result for raboesch prop shafts for submarines



    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-13-2019, 05:48 PM.

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