jims Tyhpoon TK-208 build

[deepseadiver]

Here is what the Akula Instructions say:





And here are the internal plans:

D M & T C attacked me on this forum made things miserable for me & others made me quit the sub club no forgiveness and do not except apologies just attack

[deepseadiver]

Hi Bob,

So if im correct I would use 1/8 " shafts on this set up you have does it still use the existing motor, drive and the stuff down below the water tight housing. If you can show picture, post it here of the system. I will be able to it understand even better

thanks bob very interested
best to you
Jim

[HardRock]

Just for confirmation; Silicon tube won't work. Engle uses PVC tube which does work quite well.

[trout]

Here is what the Akula Instructions say:


MAIN DRIVE UNIT
The next step is mounting the main drive unit (motor with gear box). We recommend to use a low voltage battery (i.e. 2.4 V) to check for optimal positioning of all parts of the drive gear (at a later stage). Check the direction of rotation of the drive motor. Mark the correct polarity on the motor housing. Furthermore, a third lead should be soldered to the motor housing. This lead is to be connected to the minus (-) pole of the battery or to the ground sockets of the switch unit (TAE and TAES only). This will help to minimize possible radio interference of the drive unit. If this should prove to be inadequate (in case that the speed controller used is too sensitive to interference) we recommend to use a HF-coil (not included). The closer the speed controller is placed to the motor the lower is the probability of interference. The bore for the bearing of the prop shaft must be drilled into the bulkhead with great care. Start with a 5 mm bit and widen this bore to dia. 8 mm. Fit the drive unit into the bores of the bulkhead. The hole in the bulkhead for the bearing tube of the drive shaft must be large enough, so that tube can be turned on the shaft without friction. Now connect the drive shaft with coupling (No. 5) to prop shaft (No. 8). The prop shaft with bearing will now re-position of the drive unit. Place a spacer (approx. 5 mm thick) onto the thread of the prop shaft and secure with a nut. By turning the nut on the prop shaft the main drive is set in its optimal position on the bulkhead. For the following steps it is best to place the hull vertically on its bow and secure it in this position. Make sure that the prop shaft bearing does not fall through its bore. Turn the nut on the prop shaft so that the drive unit is drawn outwards until the brass inserts protrude about 1 mm. Now connect a low voltage battery (i.e. 2.4 V) to the drive engine. See if the unit runs smoothly. If not readjust the setup. The drive unit must run without friction as otherwise the gear unit will be noisy.

After the drive unit has been properly adjusted glue both brass inserts with Epoxy into the bulkhead. MAKE SURE that no glue runs into the drive unit! First apply only a small amount of Epoxy so that it runs into the groove of the insert. Leave to set and fill-up the gaps with some more glue. This will allow easy dismounting and remounting if necessary.

Before gluing the bearing tube for the drive shaft to the bulkhead, sand the outer rim of the tube to receive a (almost) sharp edge. This will make it easier to push the sealing tube (cut from PVC tubing supplied) over the tubing at a later stage.

Glue the plastic bearing for the prop shaft in position without removing the shaft. MAKE SURE not to glue the shaft to the bearing.

The drive shaft coming out of the bearing tube is sealed with a short piece of PVC tubing supplied (inner dia. 3.5 mm). Do not use Silicone tubing as replacement. By placing the PVC in hot (not boiling!) water makes the material softer. Now it will be easier to push the tubing over the bearing tube. The drive unit is now re-mounted to the bulkhead so that both drive shafts protrude the bearing tubes.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the tubing overlaps the drive shaft by exactly 3 mm (see plan) - not more and not less. If the overlap of the tubing is too short it might not be sufficiently watertight. An overlap of more than 3 mm will cause excessive friction so that the seal wears-off rapidly.

The control rods for rudders and dive planes pass through the bulkhead to the aft section of the hull. The exit holes for the control rod should be have been drilled into the bulkhead before gluing the bulkhead into the lower hull. Glue two pieces of brass tube (dia. 3/2.2 x 20 mm) into the bulkhead with Epoxy. Insert the control rod, connect the clevis and ensure that the linkage is in line with the bearing tube before the glue has set. The linkage is sealed at the exit with a rubber gasket. The larger opening of the gasket is pushed onto the bearing tube. The difference in diameter is compensated by a piece of Silicone tubing.

The pressure switch will be connected to an inlet tube by a piece of Silicone tubing dia. 3x1 mm at a later stage. You can prepare for this now by cutting two pieces of brass tube dia. 3/2.2 mm and gluing one piece into the nozzle of the pressure switch and a second piece into the hull (please refer to the plan for exact location).

And here are the internal plans:

[The Boattrainman]

Jim,

I've built three subs using the Engel Piston tanks, two detailed on this site.

On both occasions I used simple small nitrile O rings and shaft collars to form a seal on both ends of the prop shaft. Here is the outer hull end of a 4mm prop shaft..........








..................and here is the inner end of the shaft..................



.................with two locking bolts up to the O ring.

By compressing the O rings a litlle (not enough to strain the motor) a tight seal is made that can withstand the pressure of the WTC filling with air when the tanks are full of water. I know a few people (including Engel) have questioned this approach but it works and the O rings hardly ever wear out.

If you want to spend money, Rabosech do a line of fully sealed prop shafts (same principle as mine, there's a compressed O ring in the bulge at the end), a pair will set you back around 100 bucks.

Both my method and the Raboesch prop shafts are superior to the Engel silicone hose method in my view.




The Boattrainman

[RCSubGuy]

The thing about the Engel boats is that the seals need to work in both directions. With pistons retracted, water wants to push into the dry hull. When extended, air wants to push out of the dry hull. The bellows seals work very well for linkages, but I think the reason Engel went with the tubing solution was to mitigate the in/out pressure seesaw situation.

I used their system in both of my Typhoon builds and the Akula build with zero issues. The only thing is that the silicone tubing doesn't hold up over time at all, and should be swapped out on a very regular basis.

If I had to choose a different seal for the shaft(s), I'd go with a simple compression o-ring setup, similar to what OTW employs. Jim, if you can make them 1/8" shafts, I've got a great setup that's pretty cheap and very effective, not to mention easy to install.

[deepseadiver]

Thanks guys great information were do you get mini oil seals this way I have two choices to go engels way or another I wonder if Bob Martin could join in give some tips as well the pictures of the conning tower are not close enough for me to figure it out once I get this tower working it's full steam ahead folks .

[HardRock]

Yep. I was quite sceptical about using their system but it actually worked quite well.

[Subculture]

A lot of builders ditch that and fit small simmerings (mini oil seals).

[HardRock]

Tom,

Your private mailbox is full!

I can't remember if I included the manual with the Akula. I can't find it here so I'm assuming that I did. I seem to remember that the Akula manual had a diagram showing the way Engle seal their rotating shafts, including the exact length of tube and its positioning over the external shaft housing that was required to make it work correctly; (and it did work remarkably well considering the pressure changes in that dry hull).

Would you mind having a quick search. It might save deepseadiver a bit of time.

Scott

[deepseadiver]

So how does it work? I mean I know of vinyl labels that you can print out, but those are rectangles. How do you get the individual numbers?

Hi Tom C
how's it going good buddy yes I got some vinyl labels that are working out real good. I sent one to Bob M. So when he does another typhoon he already has a label if you needs one I have a extra one let me know.
Yes people are asking when I will continue the build well I'm working on it right now! Im trying to get the conning tower done, but I have some problems . I'm trying to figure it out no luck yet. The instructions are saying to place the water proof tubing on to two shafts that turn I'm looking for a better picture of what it looks like so I can copy it no luck yet. Instructions are a little confusing some times pictures are so much better for me, so I know what's the next step, that's how I got so far on the build. So far pictures, tell a thousand words.

take care hope to hear from you again ..
Best wishes
Jim A

[Albion]

when I was in my early teens I never bothered with a bobby knife, I used a double sided razor blade. Father had loads so they were free for me. The kid from next door came round, I told him not to touch anything, next thing he has picked a new blade up by gripping both the blade edges. Lot of blood, and he wasn’t allowed around mine for some time so that was a result

[RCSubGuy]

I hear you, Jim. My garage is off-limits to anyone when they're visiting. Too many parts knocked off the bench onto the floor and smashed.

[deepseadiver]

Last chance, all. Play nice or the big stick is coming out.

sorry bob,
I need to be carful what I say so I don't bother anyone by accident .I will be continuing on my build soon. Im working on my conning tower at this time I had some one at my home visiting me there kid bent a part on my submarine. I fixed it but I wont work on it until there child is out of my house. Oh boy Things that happen when your trying to help out a family.

[RCSubGuy]

Last chance, all. Play nice or the big stick is coming out.