1/96 Albacore (after Phase III coversion 1961)

[HardRock]

I've been thinking about the drain holes along the sides of this thing for a while now. I don't have any files that will be small enough to chop out small, square holes of the required size and I have not been able to find any on line. If I can't find 'em you might not be able to find 'em eother!



So this is the plan. I have modified a small screw driver and sharpened it to make a micro chisel.







I then used it to chop out the small rectangular drain holes to a depth of abot half a mil. Its not so deep that it will upset the lay up, but it is deep enough to appear to be a square shaped hole. Once I drill a round hole in the middle of the eventual cast shell it will read as a square, not a round hole.



This still needs a bit of work but you get the idea.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

top drawer... top drawer, I say sir!

[HardRock]

I now have all of the upper hull lines drawn onto the master. They need to be cleaned out, made wider, filled and rescribed in places and generally finished off. The water line was quite trickey as there is a 14mm vertical difference between the front and the back of the boat. Its like its driving down hill!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Geeez its a hard school. I've only just managed to to get friggin lines straight! Yes Master!

Don't make me come over there!

David
Task-Master

[HardRock]

Geeez its a hard school. I've only just managed to to get friggin lines straight! Yes Master!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Chase out the primer from the engraved lines with your scribe before the primer sets. And the finishing scribe point should be cylindrical, not flared -- your engraved lines widen at the surface of the work. Your engraved lines are describing a 'V' in section, not a constant width, which is the objective.

David

[HardRock]

There are rather a lot of lines on this thing! Pushing on with the scribing. Key learning points thus far discovered; 1. Always use a template; 2. ALWAYS use a template; 3. Stick the template down with masking tape to immobilise it before you scribe; and 4. Make sure that your scribing tool is really sharp (and always use a template!!!)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

sweeeet!!!!!!

[HardRock]

A bit more scribing today and the beginning of the dive brakes.

[trout]

Scott, like David H is doing, I appreciate the time you are taking to document your build, thank you! The information is priceless and inspiring.

[HardRock]

This is the beginning of the front - or perhaps its the front of the beginning. I'm not sure which.


It will need a bit of cleaning up but I think that everything is in the right place.



Its intersting the way that messenger buoy sits askew on the forward deck. Get it in exactly the right place and it looks just like the photographs. A few mm out and it looks all wrong.

[HardRock]

Thanks Mate. Yep, plastic wood is the way to go. This stuf is French but I guess its pretty much the same as Renshape.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The scribing you show is of Merriman quality. And it don't get no better than that! Well done, sir.

And that hull is spot on from what I can see. This is going to be a killer kit, pal. Well done.

You'll agree, Scott, that scribing into RenShape is easier than raw wood? (hint, hint, Dave).

David

[HardRock]

Meanwhile back in the shed the scribing has begun! And I say that with some relief because the new (and much more detailed) plans that arrived this morning confirm that the master is mostly correct. There was a bit of recontouring of the nose to lessen the abruptness of the transition to the deck and a bit of fiddling with the deck line, but apart from that it looks alright.

[HardRock]

What a great photograph. I'm in catch up mode right now as I can't do much until the new drawings arrive. Some thoughts based on that photograph: