Oscar Continued

[greenman407]

WHATS TAKING SOOOO LONG GETTING THIS THREAD MOVING AGAIN??? TOO many irons in the fire I guess. Today I pulled her off the TOP shelf and wiped the dust off her. I unceremoniously removed the 3.5" Extra long Subdriver and put the model back up top out of the way for now. There is plenty of work to be done on the Subdriver. Originally I had planned to reuse the dual speed control but I changed my mind. Much less space will be taken up by the two micro Viper 10 marine ESCs. Plus the Vipers are updated compared to my old dually. Probably less interference as well. Ive had ESCs in the past that gave out so much interference that you couldnt get more than 20 feet away from it before you would lose contact.
Also, I think Im going to leave the standard size servos in place for now. As I move along, they can always be replaced by smaller ones should I need more space.

[greenman407]

Here are some pictures of the engine compartment tray before I started pulling it apart. As you can see it is quite a crowded setup. What with the Large Snort pump, which works VERY WELL! Also the huge Polk 8 ch. receiver. And the dually ESC.

[greenman407]

So here is what has got to go back in there. Two micro viper 10s, four ESCs for the thrusters, two electronic switches, two servo reversers and two Pstix, as well as the KMC designs "Throttle Jockey". And thats not to mention the Sombra SL-8.....not pictured.

[greenman407]

So........I guess what we will do is to start from one end and work toward the other end. Ill probably review the available space, find the best spot for the Sombra....and go from there. So you say, where is the ADF2? I know you dont remember but the Oscar and the Seaview share the same battery WTC with integrally mounted APC.

[greenman407]

Oh and that doesnt include the large Caswell BEC. LORD lord..........what have I wrought???!!! Here is a picture of the wiring diagram. Keep in mind this shows one channel operating two thrusters. Ill need to double it for four working thrusters operated by two channels using the rotating control knobs on my new radio.

[greenman407]

MY GOD..................WILL HE EVER SHUT UP!!!??? As youll remember, a couple of years ago I purchased some submersible 12 volt pond pumps. Today I drug them out, put them in a bucket of water to do a final test before installing them in the Oscar. Upon final review I found there water output to be not as much as I had remembered them to be. So I found some updated ones with more output. They are on the way.http://www.ebay.com/itm/182223539000...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[greenman407]

Its gonna be five plus weeks on delivery of the new thruster pumps. In the meantime Dave suggested that I take this oppurtunity to change the dryspace engine compartment bulkhead setup to a more modern one. I agreed and am waiting on the new unit. Once that arrives I can start the process. The only other thing I can do while I am awaiting arrival of the new stuff is to install the brass flow tubes in the hull at the four corners. I think its gonna be a gooden.

[greenman407]

So here is the waterproof plug connector that I will use to connect the thrusters mounted to the floor of the hull to the insides of the dryspace of the Subdriver.

[greenman407]

This Just In.....literally. My new 3.5" motor bulkhead. It has two o-rings instead of the one. Also, it has internal gearing. Thanks Dave.....you are da man!

[greenman407]

While we are at it, and we have this thing stripped down and starting over, we might as well throw in some higher capacity motors. These are "Team Brood" Handwound 19 turn motors. They are fan cooled and very Robust . Had to get the pinion gear off the old motors and get them attached to the new motors. Also, I am using a different servo than was probably considered for this Sub-driver so I had to move the servo supports to accommodate these Hitec metal geared HS-82MG Micro servos.With all the "Stuff" that Ive got to squeeze in here, I am contemplating component placement location pros and cons.

[greenman407]

Since the new motors are slightly bigger than the stock motors...........I had to fine tune there alignment. As it was they were going to be rubbing on the inside of the tube, perhaps causing the orings not to seal. So I slotted the motor mounting holes in the bulkhead, got some slightly longer screws so that I could put washers on them. If you are going to do this......save yourself some headaches. Take the shafts out and put them in on the backside of the motor bulkhead like you see in the picture. That way you can set the lash with the gear already meshed, without going back and forth putting it on and taking it off and driving yourself BONKERS! How do I know this?........You guessed it.

[greenman407]

The washers that you see in the picture on the motor holding screws ended up being too big, they prevented the bulkhead halves from completly closing up tight, so I dug thru my "Junk" drawer until I fouund smaller washers. Otherwise they hit and prevent the motor bulkhead halves from pulling up completely closed flush. Then after you are satisfied with everything you can tack those washers with CA so that your new holes will always be in the same place for alighnment. That is if the washers have a good fit to the diameter of the screws without "sloop".

[greenman407]

AND THANK GOD FOR JUNK DRAWERS!!! I would be lost without it. But keep in mind that you have to contribute to your "Junk" drawer regularly with all discarded and extra screws washers and nuts. Otherwise your junk drawer wont have enough variety to pay for itself.

[greenman407]

I will need three non factory penetrations thru the back plate of the motor bulkhead. One for Power to the batt WTC, one for ADF2 up in batt. WTC and one for forward mounted bow planes servo. I will use one of the pushrod openings and also there is a plugged up hole right dead center that I can drill out.

[greenman407]

Positioning some of the appliances, or should I say "Components". I have to adjust the timing on the motors because one will turn CCW and the other CW. Since these motors like some timing advance, it has to be advanced in the right direction, otherwise its retarded timing. So looking at the props on the Oscar, the starboard prop must turn CW (looking from the rear) for forward movement. Therefore the motor must turn CCW because of the gearbox. Therefore the port motor is the one that I need to change the timing by adjusting the endbell. Because CCW is proper rotation for these motors. The starboard motor will be good as is. Also Ive been giving some thought to electrical wiring. Since the BEC, Snort pump and six(6) ESCs have to be wired up to the main power input, I ordered some mini screw terminal strips. That should simplify things somewhat. The micro servos are in as well as the Sombra SL-8. Also the snort pump is in place.
Since I am using micro servos the servo arms are shorter than what I was using with the standard servos. This will translate into reduced throw of the stern planes and rudders. That AINT Gonna wuk! So I ordered some extended servo arms for them. Catch Ya Latr.