Finally getting my new 3D printer

[indy1010]

Thank's rwtdiver. I will try with PLA.

[RockMechanic]

Well I'll ask, what if PLA isn't going to work for our needs? Would ABS be the way to go then? What does a basic but proper setup run?

I'm in the planning stages for a build that will likely be at a high risk for warping in specific sections, and due to it's color it'll get hot quickly.

I don't mind basically building it as a 3D puzzle as that's what my budget will likely allow.

[SubDude]

Well I'll ask, what if PLA isn't going to work for our needs? Would ABS be the way to go then? What does a basic but proper setup run?

I'm in the planning stages for a build that will likely be at a high risk for warping in specific sections, and due to it's color it'll get hot quickly.

I don't mind basically building it as a 3D puzzle as that's what my budget will likely allow.

I print only with ABS. It does offer better resistance to sagging in the sun than PLA but it will warp if it gets hot so I still try to be conscious and avoid direct sun exposure for long periods of time. Even if it warps a little it usually returns to its original shape so it won't destructively deform unless it gets really hot. I have not had a problem with my ABS hulls. It also sands and machines better than PLA but it does give off more potentially harmful fumes. Something to consider. To be successful with ABS takes hotter bed, nozzle and ambient temperatures. I print at 250C nozzle, 90C bed and 45C ambient using an Ender 3 Pro and an Ender 5+. Both machines are in heated enclosures which are extra expenses and I have upgraded them with metal extruders and quiet motherboards. I also use a bed adhesive called Magigoo which helps keep the parts stuck to the bed while printing. Depending on the size and shape of a part ABS can yield some odd tendencies during printing but nothing I would consider insurmountable in a completed hull. Bondo can cover up a lot of sins. In a nutshell I have about a grand in my big printer and maybe $600 in my small one. Additional expenses can be slicing software and a 3D CAD software if you are into designing your own stuff but in both cases there are free alternatives. Here is a picture of my latest work in process, a 1/48 USS Jimmy Carter. 113" long and 10" beam. All ABS.

[Sinksalot]

I agree ABS is much better the using PLA. Yes it is hard and slower to print. As you need to print ABS or ASA, another version of ABS way way slower then pla.

Dam that sub is huge Steve! Look at the size of the sub cradle for it wow.

Nice print

[rwtdiver]

I agree ABS is much better the using PLA. Yes it is hard and slower to print. As you need to print ABS or ASA, another version of ABS way way slower then pla.

Dam that sub is huge Steve! Look at the size of the sub cradle for it wow.

Nice print

I totally agree with you and Steve!

My reasoning for going with total PLA (14 submarines) is because of the environment that I have to work in! I do not have a shop like 95% of the guys on this forum. I have a total of 200 square feet which happens to be an extra room inside our home.



My other and main concern is because of the toxins and smells that the other types of filaments that are out there. I totally get it; PLA is not the best for this hobby. But I have made it work for me.

If you have the space for a shop were harmful vapors, smells and various other type materials are required, I would certainly bypass the use of PLA and go with ABC or ASA!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[neitosub]

Keep in mind that if you plan on just making components such as WTC trays, endcaps, and inner hull bulkheads, PLA and PLA+ is perfectly fine, as those components rarely get exposed to sunlight for an extended period of time.

Nate