Finally getting my new 3D printer

[neitosub]

Keep in mind that if you plan on just making components such as WTC trays, endcaps, and inner hull bulkheads, PLA and PLA+ is perfectly fine, as those components rarely get exposed to sunlight for an extended period of time.

Nate

[rwtdiver]

I agree ABS is much better the using PLA. Yes it is hard and slower to print. As you need to print ABS or ASA, another version of ABS way way slower then pla.

Dam that sub is huge Steve! Look at the size of the sub cradle for it wow.

Nice print

I totally agree with you and Steve!

My reasoning for going with total PLA (14 submarines) is because of the environment that I have to work in! I do not have a shop like 95% of the guys on this forum. I have a total of 200 square feet which happens to be an extra room inside our home.



My other and main concern is because of the toxins and smells that the other types of filaments that are out there. I totally get it; PLA is not the best for this hobby. But I have made it work for me.

If you have the space for a shop were harmful vapors, smells and various other type materials are required, I would certainly bypass the use of PLA and go with ABC or ASA!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Sinksalot]

I agree ABS is much better the using PLA. Yes it is hard and slower to print. As you need to print ABS or ASA, another version of ABS way way slower then pla.

Dam that sub is huge Steve! Look at the size of the sub cradle for it wow.

Nice print

[SubDude]

Well I'll ask, what if PLA isn't going to work for our needs? Would ABS be the way to go then? What does a basic but proper setup run?

I'm in the planning stages for a build that will likely be at a high risk for warping in specific sections, and due to it's color it'll get hot quickly.

I don't mind basically building it as a 3D puzzle as that's what my budget will likely allow.

I print only with ABS. It does offer better resistance to sagging in the sun than PLA but it will warp if it gets hot so I still try to be conscious and avoid direct sun exposure for long periods of time. Even if it warps a little it usually returns to its original shape so it won't destructively deform unless it gets really hot. I have not had a problem with my ABS hulls. It also sands and machines better than PLA but it does give off more potentially harmful fumes. Something to consider. To be successful with ABS takes hotter bed, nozzle and ambient temperatures. I print at 250C nozzle, 90C bed and 45C ambient using an Ender 3 Pro and an Ender 5+. Both machines are in heated enclosures which are extra expenses and I have upgraded them with metal extruders and quiet motherboards. I also use a bed adhesive called Magigoo which helps keep the parts stuck to the bed while printing. Depending on the size and shape of a part ABS can yield some odd tendencies during printing but nothing I would consider insurmountable in a completed hull. Bondo can cover up a lot of sins. In a nutshell I have about a grand in my big printer and maybe $600 in my small one. Additional expenses can be slicing software and a 3D CAD software if you are into designing your own stuff but in both cases there are free alternatives. Here is a picture of my latest work in process, a 1/48 USS Jimmy Carter. 113" long and 10" beam. All ABS.

[RockMechanic]

Well I'll ask, what if PLA isn't going to work for our needs? Would ABS be the way to go then? What does a basic but proper setup run?

I'm in the planning stages for a build that will likely be at a high risk for warping in specific sections, and due to it's color it'll get hot quickly.

I don't mind basically building it as a 3D puzzle as that's what my budget will likely allow.

[indy1010]

Thank's rwtdiver. I will try with PLA.

[rwtdiver]

Hi,

if i understand, PLA with infill 100% and surface primer is ok for a rc sub ? I use Ender 3 and Cura and i thing i will buy the typhoon 3D files.

Frank

Hi Frank!





I have built 14 3D printed submarines! All with PLA with 100% infill!



I use a good quality PLA for the build then a good quality primer on my interior and exterior, I then use a good quality exterior final finish! As I am sure you have already heard you DO NOT want to leave a PLA built sub in direct sunlight or heat for an extended length of time because it could warp, take heed on that for sure! I know there will be others challenge me on this and tell you not to use PLA. If PLA is your preference! You go for it! If you want more photos of my PLA boats in or out of the water, let me know!

Welcome to the forum and this great hobby we have here!! :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[indy1010]

Hi,

if i understand, PLA with infill 100% and surface primer is ok for a rc sub ? I use Ender 3 and Cura and i thing i will buy the typhoon 3D files.

Frank

[SubDude]

Casey, Rob is right. If you are making static models PLA and an inexpensive printer such as or comparable to the latest version of an Ender 3 and you would be good to go. You would need a slicing software such as Cura which is free but as long as the printer is in a room ambient no heated enclosure should be required.

[rwtdiver]

Static right now. Just looking to make a USS Nautilus starting out.

Casey,

I have to date 3D printed14 boats in the 1:96/1:72 scale. Everyone one these boats have been built using PLA! All these boats have been set up to use WTC and have been in my pool an operational many times! Arizona has temp. in the summer 100 to 115 deg. Using PLA you cannot leave them in the heat for any extended amount of time. To date I have not had any problems with my PLA boats. I do seal up the hull interiors with resin to help cut down on moisture penetration. I print all my boats at 100% infill which provides even less moisture penetration.

You have been following most of my builds, so you know that I use PLA only!

So for what you are doing (Model Building) you do not need to use anything other than PLA! You do not need a high-end expensive 3D printer! You do not need heated beds, or heated enclosures, and another good thing about PLA you do not have to deal with the fumes. Thats it from my corner of the world. PLA works great for me, and has done for many years!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Das Boot]

Static right now. Just looking to make a USS Nautilus starting out.

[SubDude]

ASA is like ABS but has the additional UV inhibitor so if you are using it bare outside it is better than ABS in that regard. Since we paint our hulls I don't see a need to use the ASA over the ABS and 'yes' ASA costs more. About $8 more per roll. For me that adds up but I tend to print larger subjects that require more spools. My current 1/48 Jimmy Carter project is on 12 spools and counting so over a $100 difference in price of material.

Casey, what are you looking to do with the prints? Just make static models or make RC subs? Ender makes some good lower cost printers if you are just wanting to get your feet wet and Prusa makes some good higher end printers. Print volumes vary a lot too. It all kinda depends on what you want to accomplish.

ABS and ASA resist deformity due to heat from the sun better than PLA but as stated by David, they require more to print. Mainly a heated enclosure, bed adhesive and different printer settings.

[Das Boot]

Thanks. I’m lost as far as these goes but this helps.

[Sinksalot]

I asked a question. Can you answer?

Depends on if your using filament printer or a resin printer. For filament for out door use, ASA filament is the best, but cost more. ABS is almost are good, but doesnt have the UV protections ASA has. That being said ABS and ASA need your printer in a enclosure to stop it from coming off bed and to stop warping and splitting while printing. It also requires a small heater with a temp controller to maintain the temp. I set mine at 48 to 52C in the enclosure. Max print speed with ABS or ASA for good prints is about 35 to 40mm per sec. Parts fan set at off or 25% speed. I also use a liquid on the bed called bed weld to make sure the print is held to the bed as hull parts dont take hours but days to print. I print all sub parts at 100% infill.

Now if your printing in resin, if your prints only have a 2mm wall or lower, do not cut off the supports off until after you cure the part. As the support will help hold the shape. Reason if you print your parts with a thin wall, the walls can get out of shape while washing it before you can cure it.


As for whats a good starter printer, there a lot of them out there. However I would need to know what filament you plan of using. If you planning on using ABS or ASA, you need a printer that can hit 240 to 270C on the hotend. Lower cost printers cant get that hot. I used a Ender 6 printer, the one on the right in the picture, But a few if my friends use a Ender 5 Plus which is a bigger printer. But these printer are both around $600. One of my friends bought a ELEGOO 3D Printer Neptune 2s for about $230 on Amazon. He made a enclosure for it and prints with ABS with it.

[Das Boot]

I asked a question. Can you answer?