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Finally getting my new 3D printer

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  • Finally getting my new 3D printer

    Wow after waiting for 10 Months, Elegoo finally got my printer in the US. I should get it next week. The printer I got was the Elegoo Jupiter resin 3D printer. Its a very large and heavy printer, shipping weight is 118 pounds. Yea that is dam heavy. This printer is a modular 3D resin printer. Current build volume is 277mm x 156mm x 300mm. However Elegoo will be making a optional z height module next year to let the printer print up to 500mm high. I bought this to print hull sections. The picture below show you how big the dam thing is.

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  • #2
    Looking good! I've successfully printed out large hull sections on my Anycubic MAX. I definitely prefer that over filament, though I'll say that the filament printers I have are proving to be more reliable than the resin.

    Bob

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    • #3
      Originally posted by RCSubGuy View Post
      Looking good! I've successfully printed out large hull sections on my Anycubic MAX. I definitely prefer that over filament, though I'll say that the filament printers I have are proving to be more reliable than the resin.

      Bob
      Yea I been printing with the smaller Saturn printer for a while, but you need to setup resin printer for each type of resin you use which is a pain, alot more them my filament printer. Then you can do everything 100% correct and the resin print fails for no dam reason. but all the bad points are overruled by the fast speed of the print and how good it dam looks. The only thing I mad about is I wish Elegoo sold the 500mm Z height module now so I can print at 500mm sections. But I need to wait till next year for that. I plan on using Siraya Tech nylon black resin. I need to make sure I get my buddy over to help me lift the box when it comes as 118 pounds is to much for me alone.

      Dave

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      • #4
        I have two Formlabs Form 2's. 100X more reliable than my three filament printers. Interesting that you two experienced the opposite. The Form 2 knows what resin cartridge you put in and automatically adjusts everything.

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        • #5
          Hey guys,
          Just out of curiosity, which material used cuts down on warpage and UV degradation? Also, what would be a good starter printer for 1:96 static models? I would like to print a USS NAUTILUS for display.
          https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mo...-ssn-571-print
          Last edited by Das Boot; 07-25-2022, 01:37 PM.
          Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

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          • #6
            Well this is my printing setup. One Elegoo Saturn resin print, one Elegoo Jupiter resin printer and one large Ender 6 FDM printer. My Jupiter resin printer is larger then my FDM printer lol.

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            Last edited by Sinksalot; 07-30-2022, 06:50 PM.

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            • #7
              I asked a question. Can you answer?
              Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Das Boot View Post
                I asked a question. Can you answer?
                Depends on if your using filament printer or a resin printer. For filament for out door use, ASA filament is the best, but cost more. ABS is almost are good, but doesnt have the UV protections ASA has. That being said ABS and ASA need your printer in a enclosure to stop it from coming off bed and to stop warping and splitting while printing. It also requires a small heater with a temp controller to maintain the temp. I set mine at 48 to 52C in the enclosure. Max print speed with ABS or ASA for good prints is about 35 to 40mm per sec. Parts fan set at off or 25% speed. I also use a liquid on the bed called bed weld to make sure the print is held to the bed as hull parts dont take hours but days to print. I print all sub parts at 100% infill.

                Now if your printing in resin, if your prints only have a 2mm wall or lower, do not cut off the supports off until after you cure the part. As the support will help hold the shape. Reason if you print your parts with a thin wall, the walls can get out of shape while washing it before you can cure it.


                As for whats a good starter printer, there a lot of them out there. However I would need to know what filament you plan of using. If you planning on using ABS or ASA, you need a printer that can hit 240 to 270C on the hotend. Lower cost printers cant get that hot. I used a Ender 6 printer, the one on the right in the picture, But a few if my friends use a Ender 5 Plus which is a bigger printer. But these printer are both around $600. One of my friends bought a ELEGOO 3D Printer Neptune 2s for about $230 on Amazon. He made a enclosure for it and prints with ABS with it.
                Last edited by Sinksalot; 07-31-2022, 04:18 AM.

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                • #9
                  Thanks. I’m lost as far as these goes but this helps.
                  Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ASA is like ABS but has the additional UV inhibitor so if you are using it bare outside it is better than ABS in that regard. Since we paint our hulls I don't see a need to use the ASA over the ABS and 'yes' ASA costs more. About $8 more per roll. For me that adds up but I tend to print larger subjects that require more spools. My current 1/48 Jimmy Carter project is on 12 spools and counting so over a $100 difference in price of material.

                    Casey, what are you looking to do with the prints? Just make static models or make RC subs? Ender makes some good lower cost printers if you are just wanting to get your feet wet and Prusa makes some good higher end printers. Print volumes vary a lot too. It all kinda depends on what you want to accomplish.

                    ABS and ASA resist deformity due to heat from the sun better than PLA but as stated by David, they require more to print. Mainly a heated enclosure, bed adhesive and different printer settings.
                    Last edited by SubDude; 07-31-2022, 08:31 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Static right now. Just looking to make a USS Nautilus starting out.
                      Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Das Boot View Post
                        Static right now. Just looking to make a USS Nautilus starting out.
                        Casey,

                        I have to date 3D printed14 boats in the 1:96/1:72 scale. Everyone one these boats have been built using PLA! All these boats have been set up to use WTC and have been in my pool an operational many times! Arizona has temp. in the summer 100 to 115 deg. Using PLA you cannot leave them in the heat for any extended amount of time. To date I have not had any problems with my PLA boats. I do seal up the hull interiors with resin to help cut down on moisture penetration. I print all my boats at 100% infill which provides even less moisture penetration.

                        You have been following most of my builds, so you know that I use PLA only!

                        So for what you are doing (Model Building) you do not need to use anything other than PLA! You do not need a high-end expensive 3D printer! You do not need heated beds, or heated enclosures, and another good thing about PLA you do not have to deal with the fumes. Thats it from my corner of the world. PLA works great for me, and has done for many years!

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat"

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                        • #13
                          Casey, Rob is right. If you are making static models PLA and an inexpensive printer such as or comparable to the latest version of an Ender 3 and you would be good to go. You would need a slicing software such as Cura which is free but as long as the printer is in a room ambient no heated enclosure should be required.

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                          • #14
                            Hi,

                            if i understand, PLA with infill 100% and surface primer is ok for a rc sub ? I use Ender 3 and Cura and i thing i will buy the typhoon 3D files.

                            Frank

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by indy1010 View Post
                              Hi,

                              if i understand, PLA with infill 100% and surface primer is ok for a rc sub ? I use Ender 3 and Cura and i thing i will buy the typhoon 3D files.

                              Frank
                              Hi Frank!

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                              I have built 14 3D printed submarines! All with PLA with 100% infill!

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                              I use a good quality PLA for the build then a good quality primer on my interior and exterior, I then use a good quality exterior final finish! As I am sure you have already heard you DO NOT want to leave a PLA built sub in direct sunlight or heat for an extended length of time because it could warp, take heed on that for sure! I know there will be others challenge me on this and tell you not to use PLA. If PLA is your preference! You go for it! If you want more photos of my PLA boats in or out of the water, let me know!

                              Welcome to the forum and this great hobby we have here!! :-))

                              Rob
                              "Firemen can stand the heat"
                              Last edited by rwtdiver; 09-02-2022, 06:32 PM.

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