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MK148 ADCAP RC Electric Torpedo

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  • MK148 ADCAP RC Electric Torpedo

    ​Like the MK16 Steam Torpedo of old, the RC Gas propelled torpedo's time has come and gone.​

    The MK148 ADCAP RC Sub torpedo based on the US MK48 ADCAP sub launched ASW/ASuW Heavyweight Torpedo.

    The 4-3/4" x 7/16" (19'x21" @ 1:48) weapon is driven by a 3V Coreless drone motor powered by 3V 5F Supercap (22.5 Joules).
    This coupled to a modified "Mini Drone" 2-bladed propeller should provide an estimated run length of 50 ft.
    ​The onboard charge and motor activation is provided by a magnetically operated ​SPDT 280MA​ ​Reed switch
    RTE (Run to Enable) is calculated at 3ft (starting the surface run after ejection and running submerged during the pre-enable phase).

    The MK113/RB Fire Control System will consist of the 1/2" standard 1:48 Scale RC Torpedo tube utilizing Impulse water ejection ram powered by an
    EPDM - (ETHYLENE PROPYLENE DIENE MONOMER) stored energy subsystem (rubber band) and wet-servo firing mechanism.
    Weapon is muzzle loaded into the tube, and the ejection ram "cocked into the firing position.
    Charging is done "in tube" via a recessed brass pin on the nose and though an access hole on the torpedo tube to the grounded Aluminum torpedo Body.
    The GND pin of the charging mechanism is over-sized and cannot fit into the positive charging location on the weapon nose to prevent an accidental reverse polarity condition.
    P​arts are on order for the MK113/RB. Detailed specification and plans to be released after final testing IAW the DMerriman-III RC Submarine Freedom of Information Act

    This all weather, any depth, weapon system will strike fear into the hearts of all other RC watercraft.

    ​USS​ SHARK SSN-591 will have the MK113/RB retrofitted by June.​


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    After 25+ years of wanting this, the advent of drone technology that may have hurt us (can you say 2.4Ghz?) also provided me the readily available tech to do this.
    Thanks to all of you out there who developed the electric torpedo, and especially Capt. Bob Gaito for his spin on it and inspiring me.
    v/r "Sub" Ed

    Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
    NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
    USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

  • #2
    What are your thoughts for sealing the shaft?

    Comment


    • #3
      Not going to, the .030 SS shaft rides in an .032 ID brass tube. Going to drill and tap the aft section and install a set screw and just fill with CorrosionX, I like it's viscosity. Should keep the water displaced. The area fwd of the motor will be sealed off with sillycone. More worried about trim with the water getting in than anything else. They should inexpensive enough that if I get two seasons without corroding the motor, I'm happy.
      Though not intended to be serviceable, using sillycone to attach the tailcone could make replacing the motor possible for the frugal modeler. Only time will tell how viable it is
      If you want I'll send you the current stl files, parts list w/sources and you play with it.
      v/r "Sub" Ed

      Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
      NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
      USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

      Comment


      • #4
        An idea for shaft seal might be magnetic coupling.
        A magnet spinning on the motor shaft couples to a metal disc on the prop shaft.
        Magnet and disc separated by waterproof barrier.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Scott T View Post
          An idea for shaft seal might be magnetic coupling.
          A magnet spinning on the motor shaft couples to a metal disc on the prop shaft.
          Magnet and disc separated by waterproof barrier.
          That's an interesting thought, but don't be concerned with keeping the water out.......

          Let's look at the sizes we're talking about.

          The Shaft exit has an annular clearance of (.03125-.03000)/2 which gives you .000625" clearance between the shaft AND the brass tube.
          Then nerd math gives us a total surface area around the shaft that water can penetrate as 6.0132E-5 sq inches = 0.000387 cm^2

          Yes water can and will migrate past just with capillary action. Not a lot, but it's what is beyond that is what I'm concerned with.

          The cavity beyond the the shaft which the water would penetrate is less than 0.0586 cu in, or .960 cc. To put in context that's 1/5 of a teaspoon or 20 drops of H2o.

          Like I said, I'm filling that with CorrosionX which I could purge and replace after each shot via the set screw hole. BTW Bob, I'm using a 100% infill to aid in drilling and tapping.

          Immediately forward of that is the motor itself, and that will have a plug of silicone at it's fwd bulkhead, where the REAL cavity is. The motor itself I feel has small enough cavity to not be a concern. Over time Corrosion X will work itself into it. It in itself is almost a bulkhead.

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          I applaud your insight, yet feel it would not be practical at this level to engineer into the design. Great in theory, not so much in practice.

          When it comes to the RC submarine, my mantra is "Keep it simple stoopid". I have it tattooed on my forehead in "UV only" visible ink (makes it GLOW!)




          Last edited by QuarterMaster; 03-08-2020, 02:14 PM.
          v/r "Sub" Ed

          Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
          NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
          USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

          Comment


          • #6
            Another thought would be to run soap or wax on the shaft then seal with silicone. Once the silicone hardens give the shaft a twist to break it loose. This might form a seal.

            Comment


            • #7
              Those little coreless motors will run all day long under water...if you want longevity you just have to stop corrosion for during those times in the drydock between runs-Ed's right on with the corrosion X
              I ran one as a thruster motor in my chlorinated swimming pool several times and put it on the shelf for a year and a half (I didn't even dry it off) and it still spins up like day one.

              Comment


              • #8
                Trying to share whole photo albums without uploading, let me know if this Google Album Link works FOR YOU:

                MK148 ADCAP RC Submarine heavyweight Torpedo (1:48)

                v/r "Sub" Ed

                Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
                NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
                USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

                Comment


                • #9
                  I like the idea that the body is the common for charging and running. Nice.
                  If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ed, looking good-I know you mentioned that the propulsor nozzle should be conical...NBD-just spin the next one and sand a bevel on the aft end-its like impressionistic painting, you just need to put the Idea across and people will buy it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by trout View Post
                      I like the idea that the body is the common for charging and running. Nice.
                      GND is GND....

                      Plus, when I paint it (matched to the following scheme), one of the paint stripes that go around the circumference of a MK48 will be exposed Aluminum that lines up with an access hole in the Torprdo tube to allow contact with the Battery Ground (-) charging tip.


                      A probe tip to the nose and on that and she charges! A EE helped me today with the Charger Schematic for safe and reliable charging in ~60s. Post that when I test it.

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                      v/r "Sub" Ed

                      Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
                      NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
                      USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bob Gato View Post
                        Ed, looking good-I know you mentioned that the propulsor nozzle should be conical...NBD-just spin the next one and sand a bevel on the aft end-its like impressionistic painting, you just need to put the Idea across and people will buy it.
                        Bob, you always push me the extra bit.

                        Thank you!

                        Now go build another twenty one MK V chairs...
                        v/r "Sub" Ed

                        Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
                        NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
                        USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Next up is the UGM-109/1-48 TLAM and Launch system!
                          v/r "Sub" Ed

                          Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
                          NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
                          USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This is going to be interesting, building the torp is the easy part, getting a working launcher a different chapter.

                            A tip for you Ed, trim those torps in such way that they float with the tip above the surface, why?, if they float horizontal and hit something they will digg a trail on the bottum, shortly said, you will loose them in the dark outdoor waters.
                            Trimming in such way will cost you speed, but they won't get lost.

                            Manfred.
                            Fertig zum unterwasser.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Looking at his drawing and photos, it looks like it will already be nose up - that is my guess from what I have done already. Manfred is right on level trim. In my video you will see the torpedo hit the curve of the test pool and dive. It does eventually raise up, but in that time it can snag on weeds or rocks.
                              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                              Comment

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