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MK148 ADCAP RC Electric Torpedo

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  • #16
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200310_182420 (2).jpg Views:	0 Size:	85.2 KB ID:	137148
    An idea for a coupling between prop shaft and motor shaft is to use heat shrink.
    Slide it on shrink a little at both ends to shafts. Add superglue if needed.
    Last edited by Scott T; 03-13-2020, 01:08 PM.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Scott T View Post
      An idea for a coupling between prop shaft and motor shaft is to use heat shrink.
      Slide it on shrink a little at both ends to shafts. Add superglue if needed.
      That won't work, use some silicone hose, that piece of heat shrink is not flexible enough.

      As for getting the shaft sealed, i use vaseline as lubricant inside a chamber, which is located inside the rear-end, this is enough protection for running at the surface, if
      you want to run deeper use O rings for both the shaft and sealing of the body of your torp.

      Some tips for building the launcher,

      1 take a tube size which is roomy enough to house your torp, snugg fitt is a no go, you need that room to surround the torp in water.
      2 make enough slits into your launchertube, mine have slits on the sides, underneath and above, once again this is done to let the water inside the launchtube, whit less or no slits the torp will not exit the launchtube.
      3 as for pushing out the torp i've been using a small spring, launching happens pretty much the same way as those springloaded toyguns.
      My nextgeneration tubes are free launchers, no springs used, i simply let the torp launch itself out of the tube, a KISS solution, the activation magnet is placed on a rod which is connected to the servo, you can lock the torp by using that ball lock David has used on the gaslaunchers.

      Manfred.

      Fertig zum unterwasser.

      Comment


      • #18
        Sorry guy's.....

        I was describing how it's done, not asking for help. But I do enjoy the discussion.

        I AM not sealing the end, I am doing what I described and filling with CorrosionX, less viscous and easily replaceable than Vaseline, which WILL hold fine debris. Also these fish are $10.50 USD each (which includes the 3D print material) To me that's cheaper than most of you spending on your first craft beer of the evening. Bet dollars to donuts of these they last at least two seasons, making 'em cheaper than a latte per season, but don't really care if they don't, I don't drink alcohol.

        Water WILL NOT GET PAST THE MOTOR to the important stuff.

        My keel depth is on the order of 18 inches, I am not wasting time with orings either. I'm a happy 2.4Ghz sailor.

        Originally posted by Scott T View Post
        Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_20200310_182420 (2).jpg Views:	0 Size:	85.2 KB ID:	137148
        An idea for a coupling between prop shaft and motor shaft is to use heat shrink.
        Slide it on shrink a little at both ends to shafts. Add superglue if needed.
        I bought 8 pairs of LH/RH RC Drone propellers for $8

        Using the spare hubs from the opposite pitch prop as shown in the photo on .03 dia rod works JUST fine. I would toss them out anyway. NO need to think further...period.

        Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
        As for getting the shaft sealed, i use vaseline as lubricant inside a chamber, which is located inside the rear-end, this is enough protection for running at the surface, if
        you want to run deeper use O rings for both the shaft and sealing of the body of your torp.

        Some tips for building the launcher,

        1 take a tube size which is roomy enough to house your torp, snugg fitt is a no go, you need that room to surround the torp in water.
        2 make enough slits into your launchertube, mine have slits on the sides, underneath and above, once again this is done to let the water inside the launchtube, whit less or no slits the torp will not exit the launchtube.
        3 as for pushing out the torp i've been using a small spring, launching happens pretty much the same way as those springloaded toyguns.
        My nextgeneration tubes are free launchers, no springs used, i simply let the torp launch itself out of the tube, a KISS solution, the activation magnet is placed on a rod which is connected to the servo, you can lock the torp by using that ball lock David has used on the gaslaunchers.

        Manfred.
        Nope, I already described how I'm doing it, go read the first post, THAT is KISS. A rubber band plunger will impulse the fish out with the very fluid it's in. SIMPLE and not losing energy to accelerate.

        Excuse the crude drawing, I will have the prototype operational next week and will demonstrate in a video.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200313_175612.jpg Views:	0 Size:	90.1 KB ID:	137154

        Here are the existing Tubes on the SHARK, Imagine those brass tubes as a Plexiglas rod. the port side simulating the plunger cocked and ready to fire. The servo pulls the catch, the plunger is pulled forward by a rubber band, which pushes the water in front of THAT forward, which forces the fish past the switch magnet and out the tube. The kinetic energy of the launch saves on the stored 22.5 joules in the super-cap. She will be refitted with the MK113/RB by April, need to relocate that yellow power box. Granted it's longer than a gas ejection, but 1:48 scale gives me the room for this. APPLICATION....APPLICATION....APPLICATION.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200313_175709.jpg Views:	0 Size:	38.5 KB ID:	137155

        In regards to your earlier post these fish are positively buoyant and WILL NOT run aground. As for losing them anyway, who the heck shoots them in any direction but back towards the observer to land them on the shore anyway? Track your target for a firing solution to have him between you and your boat lol. I'm building a Springer Class retrieval tug to fetch errant fish.

        Tell me that's not simple...I double dog dare you.


        Again very interesting discussion, but this is the course I'm following. NO need to change the engineering model, but thanks!

        (Yes Dave, I'll agree the yellow cigarette box is "tupperware"....any port in a storm!)

        v/r "Sub" Ed

        Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
        NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
        USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

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        • #19
          Yet again, interesting to see how your launchsystem will turn out, i'm allways on the watch to see something new to be born.

          Manfred.
          Fertig zum unterwasser.

          Comment


          • #20
            So here's my latest take-
            Rather then canted fins to counteract a spin , which add only drag and possibly a turning vector-Another avenue of approach would be counter-rotating props-and since this is not practical, my I idea would be to attach a reverse pitch prop to the tail cone and have the shaft free run thru it to drive the main prop-then just let the torpedo spin as it goes forward...Both props would impart forward thrust ..

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            • #21
              I have not tried the static second propeller yet but in testing I have determined that the curved track (as noted and mentioned by Bob M) with a lot of prop driven mini torpedoes is not so much from canted fins..it appears to be from prop torque (prop walk) I have tried both CW and CCW props and CW (looking FWD) prop pushes the aft end of the torp to the right causing the torp to curve to the left and the reverse for CCW prop. Now this was with a two bladed prop-possibly a three blade prop wont walk so much...

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Bob Gato View Post
                So here's my latest take-
                Rather then canted fins to counteract a spin , which add only drag and possibly a turning vector-Another avenue of approach would be counter-rotating props-and since this is not practical, my I idea would be to attach a reverse pitch prop to the tail cone and have the shaft free run thru it to drive the main prop-then just let the torpedo spin as it goes forward...Both props would impart forward thrust ..
                Put that 'fixed prop' at a near zero pitch (or small fraction of the propeller pitch) and you have a stator. Then wrap a tapered shroud about the two and you have a MK 48 propulsor.

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                David
                Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; Today, 10:22 AM.
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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