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Tool time.

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Beats drilling and grinding
    https://www.anmlawj.xyz/index.php?ma...ucts_id=494647

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    when it comes to static (Oilite) and dynamic (roller) bearings you want hard against hard or hard against soft. Soft against soft quickly wears away the surface of the bearing AND shaft. Bad ju-ju!

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by JHapprich View Post
    Motor shaft is 2.3mm
    Do believe there are 2.3mm i.d. tubing available.
    If not, just take off 0.15mm all around the shaft.
    If you're in a hurry get a torch to the brass to soften it and just force fit the shaft.
    Last edited by redboat219; 09-27-2020, 04:41 AM.

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  • JHapprich
    replied
    Motor shaft is 2.3mm

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    How bout using brass tubing instead? 3mm OD; 2mm ID
    Last edited by redboat219; 09-27-2020, 03:18 AM.

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  • Davidh
    replied
    Thankyou David,

    Im pretty much doing most of that. I should probably use the dial gauge a bit more. Definitely doing step one. Step two grinding Down the outer shaft with motor spinning and fixed grinding. Wheel, am doing this but using a way to big grinding wheel. Will use small disc and third ,standing by for unspeakable business.

    thankyou David for your schpeedy -ness..

    dave h

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Davidh View Post
    Hello David,

    its been a while while since I asked you some questions, but right now I am stumped. I am still having a problem with shaft extensions, they are the single biggest drama I’m having at the moment with my cylinder design. I know that you posted a heap of pics a couple of months ago about how to turn then and press fit them with a hammer onto the motor shafts.( I cannot for the life of me find those pics or which thread it is in.)

    Anyway, I am finding them near impossible to get them absolutely centered so there is no vibration. I drill a hole in the stainless steel shaft and then lightly grind the motor shaft and then tap them with a hammer, but unless I concoct some kind of extremely tight accurate jig to hold everything absolutely in line I cannot see how I’m going to get the shafts absolutely centric...

    it it makes me want to drop the ZB-2 design and just go with geared end caps...

    i could take pliers and try bend it slightly that either makes it slightly better or a lot worse. I am worried if I do that then I could slightly bend the shaft inside the motor.

    Help..

    Thanks

    David H
    There are three tricks to getting the motor shaft extension to line up with the motor shaft.

    First is to insure your lathe is set up so the head stock and chuck are centered (run-in) so that the work does not spin 'wobbly'. You bore out one end of the stainless steel shaft extension with a bit that will produce an interference fit to the motor shaft -- that bit held in a chuck supported on the carefully dialed in tail-stock. You shave the motor shaft as the motor rotates at high speed to a slight tapper. Use a hammer or hand-press to set the extension to the motor shaft.

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    The second is to use a dial-indicator to find any offset of the motor-shaft extension unit -- correcting it by slightly bending the motor shaft itself.

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    If need be I'll impart onto you the secret, discusting, out-of-left-field third method of insuring shaft extension unity with the motor shaft -- too horrible to relate at this time.

    David

    Attached Files

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  • Davidh
    replied
    Hello David,

    its been a while while since I asked you some questions, but right now I am stumped. I am still having a problem with shaft extensions, they are the single biggest drama I’m having at the moment with my cylinder design. I know that you posted a heap of pics a couple of months ago about how to turn then and press fit them with a hammer onto the motor shafts.( I cannot for the life of me find those pics or which thread it is in.)

    Anyway, I am finding them near impossible to get them absolutely centered so there is no vibration. I drill a hole in the stainless steel shaft and then lightly grind the motor shaft and then tap them with a hammer, but unless I concoct some kind of extremely tight accurate jig to hold everything absolutely in line I cannot see how I’m going to get the shafts absolutely centric...

    it it makes me want to drop the ZB-2 design and just go with geared end caps...

    i could take pliers and try bend it slightly that either makes it slightly better or a lot worse. I am worried if I do that then I could slightly bend the shaft inside the motor.

    Help..

    Thanks

    David H

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    Thankyou David.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Davidh View Post
    Hello David,


    Iím gone back to looking at vac pumps and am confused by the stats needed. I realize 29 inches of mercury and also -1 bar with about 8 CFM. However when I look up pumps, they all say how many cfm but none tell the amount of vacuum pulled in any meaning ful reference I can get my head around.They certainly donít mention 29 inches or -1 Bar , they may mention microns. Iíve looked up conversion scales but Iím just getting more confused. Any further advice?

    regards

    David H
    I've seen the same things on 'new' pumps I've been pricing (the one I've got and is still working is nearly 40 years old and I bought it new); nothing I've looked at denotes degree of vacuum expressed in inches of Mercury. WTF!? I blame you metric-tramps across the waters for this horrible situation. A pox on your houses!

    OK, that out of my system Ö...Ö.

    Kevin Rimrodt is a calibration technician. If there's a conversion scale that converts microns per whatever-to-inches, he's the guy. I'll get back to you, Dave.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    Hello David,


    Iím gone back to looking at vac pumps and am confused by the stats needed. I realize 29 inches of mercury and also -1 bar with about 8 CFM. However when I look up pumps, they all say how many cfm but none tell the amount of vacuum pulled in any meaning ful reference I can get my head around.They certainly donít mention 29 inches or -1 Bar , they may mention microns. Iíve looked up conversion scales but Iím just getting more confused. Any further advice?

    regards

    David H

    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    I would cut down int the number of vents you are using. I try to position the parts as such that I only need one vent. For the hinge for example if you angle the part you will not need a vent at the hinge.

    Below the mould I made for the new diveplanes I did for the AKULA, only one vent/part.

    Grtz,
    Bart

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  • Davidh
    replied
    Hello David and all.

    David I have a couple of questions for you regarding my tooling for the upcoming project 667. I am on the cusp of producing some silicon moulds for the 667. The rear appendages and some of the reactor coolant scoops. However I will soon also be creating the moulds for the stern horizontal planes. As you know the 667's stern planes featured fences, (plates at either end of the movable surface.) I am concerned about how to best arrange them on my moulding board arrangement and designing the mould to eliminate the possibility of trapped air bubbles in the outer edges of these really thin sections. I have never moulded parts with such thin plate sections before and I am concerned that because of their thin-ness they may be susceptible to bubbles if the air venting is not well designed and I think this could be greatly helped by their orientation.

    This first picture shows my typical mould board set up with the movable surface with the leading edge upwards. The sprue (dark shaded in section) attaching to the leading edge where the foil is thickest. The thinking being that the plates are pointed upwards therefore allowing one vent placed at the top tip of the plate to allow air to move out as the resin fills up. The downside is that the resin will be pouring into the mould immediately over the brass rod insert, thus hampering a clear open space to pour into. What do you think of this?

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    Second photo shows the movable surface in the more conventional position that I would usually have it with the plates in a horizontal position, My concern being that the air will not be able to escape out the sides of the mould as my vent lines only really run up the split surface. Should I be concerned about extra venting lines or is it really in your experience, not an issue? This is how I would prefer to mount the piece as it allows the brass insert to be away from the pouring sprue. It also means I can have the air vents on a easily sandable flat surface rather than on the curved thick end of the foil.


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    Or is this all not really an issue?


    Second point.


    This has to do with you Fin build on the November class that Scott is developing. I really wanted to see what happened with the rest of the Sail/ Fin fabrication. The reason why I am so interested in this is that I am considering a one piece mould for the 667's fin. However I am thinking of creating a moulded part but out of Glass rather than moulding it out of Polyurethane.. You got up to splitting the mould in two with a knife and then were about to lay up cloth and then that's where I was left hanging....


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    I am thinking of producing my 667 fin mould as a one piece exactly like above however instead of cutting it in two, just brushing in gel coat and then layers of cloth. I am going to have to make a added section on the rear of the sail to create void where the missile deck would be and to make sure that the piece could be pulled out. I hope this makes sense. Do you see any problems with this?



    Regards,

    David H

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Now, to the specifics of rubber tool design. The objective is to insure a quick and complete fill of the tool cavities. I've covered the unique features of centrifugal and vacuum type tools. What I'm describing now is the more traditional gravity and pressure assisted type tools. Looking at a typical set of cast resin parts, still attached to their sprue and vent channel network, pretty much informs you how the introduced liquid resin displaces air as the cavities fill:




    The big central sprue, and auxiliary sprues if used, are typically formed as the tool halves are poured over the masters.




    The vent channels are cut in after the tool halves are formed. Like so:



    However, when the eventual tool cavity is of significant cross section, and long enough, I will press the cavity itself into service as the main sprue. Which is the situation with the two tool masters on the left:


    David

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    The pressure pot can take the form of a commercially available 'paint pot', such as these here:


    Or custom made pressure pots for larger tools. Like these:


    Third, is centrifugal resin casting. Resin is introduced into a spinning tool through a central sprue. From the sprue the liquid resin is channel outboard toward the circumference of the tool. Great force is applied with this technique insuring complete displacement of air and perfect resin parts achieved.




    And forth, is vacuum assisted resin casting. Ideal for the most complex of cavity shapes and narrowest of cross-sections. Only a very small sprue is provided each cavity, each sprue hole sharing a common trough. Resin is mixed up, poured into the trough, and the tool subjected to a hard-vacuum. The work is returned to atmospheric pressure before the resin changes state, and is left to cure out.





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