Where can you still get GWS 75mhs FM Dual Conversion Crystals?
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Originally posted by Davidh View PostThanks David,
I believe problem solved, water was getting around the outside of the seal between the outer lip and the seal body..
Dave…
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Thanks David,
I believe problem solved, water was getting around the outside of the seal between the outer lip and the seal body..
Dave…
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Also a good choice, but since I had no GWS receivers, I cannot tell you whether it could match other transmitters. Maybe for Futaba is OK
V
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Originally posted by Davidh View PostDavid,
I initially wanted to private message you on this one however your inbox is full....
I have another question, that I need some direction and pointers to think about in order to fix the problem at hand.
Recently I have been testing some stern cylinder end caps and have to my frustration found that there have been leaks through the inside of the motor. This seems to be something new and yet I can't think of what i have done differently to make this problem materialize. The motors that I use are the RE-380SH type that are common as. I have been testing the rear end cap with what looks like no leaks occurring and then I tilt the assembly and drips come out of the rear slots in the can, shown below.
Now this motor is bolted in with tiny 2.3mm hex bolts in two tiny holes in the front. I silicon over these and the round raised section where the shaft extends at the front is a tight fit into the hole in the end cap as seen in the photo below. The front section of motor is pressed into the end cap to about 10 mm depth. I have always put a bead of silicon about the outer front face of the motor and as i press it back into the housing the silicon pushed backward with it creating a sealing.
So the next photo raises some questions that i have of the front face.
Or is your first and last line of defense the cup seal at the front and you've never had to deal with water so far back? This problem is really annoying me off at the moment.
What is your opinion, views or things for me to think about.
Thanks
David h
The sintered bronze bearing of the motor is only a press-fit to the motor can and is not at all water/pressure tight. And the non-interference fit between motor shaft and sintered bearing bore is also not water/pressure tight. NOT WATERTIGHT!
Bottom line: if that cup seal fails, water flows into the motor and then into your after dry space. If you're not using a proper shaft-seal over the motor shaft (or motor shaft extension which I employ) you are guaranteed to leak massive amounts of water into the motor.
David
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Hi Sam,
Thats an old photo. I haven’t used that shaft in years. I think I’ve found the problem water getting around the side of the u cup. Thanks Joerg..
Dave
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It looks like there is a visible dent on the shaft, any dent or spike on the shaft will make the cup seal not waterproof or damage the cup seal. If the shaft is difficult to polish or repair ,you can replace it.
V
Last edited by Sam Victory; 03-17-2022, 11:33 PM.
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Must be the cup seal. Only spot with water contact. Cup seal off-centre, bend or misplaced. Polish the shaft around the sealing lip.
happy hunting!
Jörg
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David,
I initially wanted to private message you on this one however your inbox is full....
I have another question, that I need some direction and pointers to think about in order to fix the problem at hand.
Recently I have been testing some stern cylinder end caps and have to my frustration found that there have been leaks through the inside of the motor. This seems to be something new and yet I can't think of what i have done differently to make this problem materialize. The motors that I use are the RE-380SH type that are common as. I have been testing the rear end cap with what looks like no leaks occurring and then I tilt the assembly and drips come out of the rear slots in the can, shown below.
Now this motor is bolted in with tiny 2.3mm hex bolts in two tiny holes in the front. I silicon over these and the round raised section where the shaft extends at the front is a tight fit into the hole in the end cap as seen in the photo below. The front section of motor is pressed into the end cap to about 10 mm depth. I have always put a bead of silicon about the outer front face of the motor and as i press it back into the housing the silicon pushed backward with it creating a sealing.
So the next photo raises some questions that i have of the front face.
Or is your first and last line of defense the cup seal at the front and you've never had to deal with water so far back? This problem is really annoying me off at the moment.
What is your opinion, views or things for me to think about.
Thanks
David h
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Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
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Originally posted by vital.spark View PostI just ordered 2 CORONA RP81D 72mhz receivers for Ali. Just click on Sam's Henge receiver - Buy Henge receiver with free shipping on AliExpress and go to CORONA. They have over 40 left in stock and also have 40mhz available. I have used these in 3 of my Subs and they work like a champ! They are duel conversion and fully synthesized. 72mhz is legal here in Hong Kong and also New Zealand where I also operate.,
V
CORONA RP8D1 40Mhz 72MHz 8CH dual conversion synthesized receiver for 41M 72M FUTABA ESKY JR Wlfy Transmitter(NOT need crystal)|Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress
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