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  • george
    replied
    Where can you still get GWS 75mhs FM Dual Conversion Crystals?

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Davidh View Post
    Thanks David,

    I believe problem solved, water was getting around the outside of the seal between the outer lip and the seal body..

    Dave…
    Bingo...........

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    Thanks David,

    I believe problem solved, water was getting around the outside of the seal between the outer lip and the seal body..

    Dave…

    Leave a comment:


  • Sam Victory
    replied
    Also a good choice, but since I had no GWS receivers, I cannot tell you whether it could match other transmitters. Maybe for Futaba is OK

    V

    Leave a comment:


  • george
    replied
    What do you think of GWS receivers?

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Davidh View Post
    David,

    I initially wanted to private message you on this one however your inbox is full....

    I have another question, that I need some direction and pointers to think about in order to fix the problem at hand.

    Recently I have been testing some stern cylinder end caps and have to my frustration found that there have been leaks through the inside of the motor. This seems to be something new and yet I can't think of what i have done differently to make this problem materialize. The motors that I use are the RE-380SH type that are common as. I have been testing the rear end cap with what looks like no leaks occurring and then I tilt the assembly and drips come out of the rear slots in the can, shown below.

    Click image for larger version

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    Now this motor is bolted in with tiny 2.3mm hex bolts in two tiny holes in the front. I silicon over these and the round raised section where the shaft extends at the front is a tight fit into the hole in the end cap as seen in the photo below. The front section of motor is pressed into the end cap to about 10 mm depth. I have always put a bead of silicon about the outer front face of the motor and as i press it back into the housing the silicon pushed backward with it creating a sealing.

    Click image for larger version

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    So the next photo raises some questions that i have of the front face.


    Click image for larger version

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    Or is your first and last line of defense the cup seal at the front and you've never had to deal with water so far back? This problem is really annoying me off at the moment.

    What is your opinion, views or things for me to think about.

    Thanks

    David h
    I assume you are currently using the cup seal to keep water away from motor. If so, that is the culprit: water is either getting by the inner lip (which touches the motor shaft) and/or water is getting by the outer lip (which touches the seal body).

    The sintered bronze bearing of the motor is only a press-fit to the motor can and is not at all water/pressure tight. And the non-interference fit between motor shaft and sintered bearing bore is also not water/pressure tight. NOT WATERTIGHT!

    Bottom line: if that cup seal fails, water flows into the motor and then into your after dry space. If you're not using a proper shaft-seal over the motor shaft (or motor shaft extension which I employ) you are guaranteed to leak massive amounts of water into the motor.

    Click image for larger version

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    David

    Leave a comment:


  • gantu
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • JHapprich
    replied
    What was the cause of the leak?

    Jörg

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    Hi Sam,

    Thats an old photo. I haven’t used that shaft in years. I think I’ve found the problem water getting around the side of the u cup. Thanks Joerg..

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Sam Victory
    replied
    It looks like there is a visible dent on the shaft, any dent or spike on the shaft will make the cup seal not waterproof or damage the cup seal. If the shaft is difficult to polish or repair ,you can replace it.

    V

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_51286.jpg Views:	0 Size:	12.6 KB ID:	160066
    Last edited by Sam Victory; 03-17-2022, 10:33 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • JHapprich
    replied
    Must be the cup seal. Only spot with water contact. Cup seal off-centre, bend or misplaced. Polish the shaft around the sealing lip.
    happy hunting!

    Jörg

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    David,

    I initially wanted to private message you on this one however your inbox is full....

    I have another question, that I need some direction and pointers to think about in order to fix the problem at hand.

    Recently I have been testing some stern cylinder end caps and have to my frustration found that there have been leaks through the inside of the motor. This seems to be something new and yet I can't think of what i have done differently to make this problem materialize. The motors that I use are the RE-380SH type that are common as. I have been testing the rear end cap with what looks like no leaks occurring and then I tilt the assembly and drips come out of the rear slots in the can, shown below.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	unnamed.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	76.2 KB
ID:	160040

    Now this motor is bolted in with tiny 2.3mm hex bolts in two tiny holes in the front. I silicon over these and the round raised section where the shaft extends at the front is a tight fit into the hole in the end cap as seen in the photo below. The front section of motor is pressed into the end cap to about 10 mm depth. I have always put a bead of silicon about the outer front face of the motor and as i press it back into the housing the silicon pushed backward with it creating a sealing.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4212.JPG
Views:	118
Size:	45.8 KB
ID:	160041

    So the next photo raises some questions that i have of the front face.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	leaky motors.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	74.4 KB
ID:	160042

    Or is your first and last line of defense the cup seal at the front and you've never had to deal with water so far back? This problem is really annoying me off at the moment.

    What is your opinion, views or things for me to think about.

    Thanks

    David h

    Leave a comment:


  • James Wittaker
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
    Would the Henge Rx work with an old JR propo Max 6 radio? Click image for larger version

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    It should be OK , maybe you can order one and have a try.

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Would the Henge Rx work with an old JR propo Max 6 radio? Click image for larger version

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ID:	159871

    Leave a comment:


  • Sam Victory
    replied
    Originally posted by vital.spark View Post
    I just ordered 2 CORONA RP81D 72mhz receivers for Ali. Just click on Sam's Henge receiver - Buy Henge receiver with free shipping on AliExpress and go to CORONA. They have over 40 left in stock and also have 40mhz available. I have used these in 3 of my Subs and they work like a champ! They are duel conversion and fully synthesized. 72mhz is legal here in Hong Kong and also New Zealand where I also operate.,
    Bingo!

    V

    CORONA RP8D1 40Mhz 72MHz 8CH dual conversion synthesized receiver for 41M 72M FUTABA ESKY JR Wlfy Transmitter(NOT need crystal)|Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress


    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:

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