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OK, swapped out the ADF and Lepo-Guard. Nott'n ... still got the shakes at high-throttle. This thing is ****ing me off! Got into the LPB-MPC for a swap-out then noticed that you did not solder on the grounding-strap. Oh-oh! Stopping here so I have the rest of the night to gloat and curse inattentive customers. Tomorrow I ground the thing and see if that fixes the problem. Stay tuned, sports-fans.
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Who is John Galt? -
I don't remember a grounding strap in any of the instructions. where does it go? I didn't forget to do it, I just never read anything about one. Is a special wire or braid supplied, or just use common wire?
Or is that the tab on the LPB motor that solders direct to the small board? I guess I could have missed that, although I thought I did all joints.
At any rate, one of my tests when I was going over it was to remove the LPB connections to the receiver. I believe I left the power connection to the motor in place however, since they were hard wired.
If that is the problem I am truly sorry for causing all this work on your part.Last edited by H2Ohaze; 01-28-2013, 09:38 PM.Comment
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First off: Never apologize -- pin it on someone else! Second: I'm still dicking with it. In the morning I'll solder the ground wire up and see if that is the culprit. Yeah, it's the ground wire (you provide) between a solder pad on the MPC and motor casing. It's in Kevin's instructions. We'll see. Hey, this whole exercise is teaching us new things -- we'll walk away from this thing smarter. And the care you exhibited with the soldering, labeling and such points to a very careful sort of guy. You can only imagine some of the bubble-gum solder joints and poor execution I've seen doing other repair jobs. You do good, don't sweat it. If it is the ground wire I'll terrorize you with it forever ... no one gets out of here alive!Who is John Galt?Comment
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OK, Jim. We're sneaking up on it, pal. Just plugged in another receiver and things quieted down significantly. If your Sombra SL-8 receiver has gone sour (I'm not done checking that out, just popped out of the shop to ask you a question), it's the first one in my experience -- and I've put at least twenty SD's together using that receiver. Here's the question: did you attempt to program this receiver, or was it plugged in, virgin, to the system?Who is John Galt?Comment
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I have a shadow programmer, and I used it to set the channel. I did the programing after it was mounted and all plugged in, Tx off. I didn't program anything else, like failsafes, etc. I recall that when you first got it, you mentioned something about setting to a different channel (somehow) for your WFLY Tx.
For my Tx, I tried two Futaba 9C "Supers" with four Hitec Spectra modules rotated through each Tx. All same result, and I tried a couple of different channels. I also tried a Futaba brand 75 Mhz channel 78 module.
Another of the tests you had asked me to do was to take the receiver out of the loop- use a servo tester to run the esc. As I recall it still hesitated the motors.
I think I also did a servo tester on channel 4 Rx plug unhooked from Rx, but don't remember exact details now, except that it also seemed to be pointing to the innocence of the Rx. That statement needs verification.
I figured out what happened on my not soldering the wire- not even knowing about it. I followed the instruction sheet front side. Didn't even glance on the back of sheet, page 2 as it were. The first page seemed to have all the instructions that were needed in the "Quick Setup Guide" and this is all I looked at when assembling. It does mention an "optional motor chassis" connection in the picture, but no wording in the quick setup. I was surprised this morning when I dug the sheet out and turned it over and discovered that there were detailed instructions on the reverse side!!!!!! Frankly, I did not even see them, hard as that is to believe.
I suggest as an idiot (me!!!) proofing mod to the sheet to make sure people don't follow the quick setup guide...tell them to turn over the sheet and read the back. This is really a stupid thing for me not to have realized that there was more printing/pics on reverse side!!!Comment
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Jim, please stop beating yourself up over the missed step with the grounding wire .... it's MY job to beat you up! Anyway, I did that already and it did not make a Tinker's dam! Nuts! I plugged in a new receiver and now have everything working -- no motor surging, but still a bit of shutter to the ballast servo. I think we have two issues: the receiver and one of the factory provided (me) servos. I'm swapping servos now looking for the bad-guy. More to come, Jim. Stay tuned. Andy must be laughing his ass-off over this Chinese fire-drill of ours.Who is John Galt?Comment
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Okay, I won't beat myself up. It's Kevin's fault for not folding the instruction sheet into quarters in the other direction! I would have seen the back of the sheet first if he only folded it opposite way. Tell him he has to pull all his stock and personally refold his paper sheets!
Surprising to learn about receiver--> motor hesitation as my servo tester on esc should have eliminated Rx. But I've had experiments go wacky on me before, first result doesn't always follow later.
Side note: Are the motors running at roughly same speed now?
WRT possible bad blow servo: I'd hate to have to R&R that blasted thing, very inaccessible. But will do if I have to. Sounds like maybe you suspect one of the other three servos--->causes interference...?Comment
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Man Jim, you learn fast! Good response, blame Kevin for the folding of the instructions. LOL I learn daily from you guys.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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(in the voice of Charleston Heston) "Damn you Kevin .... damn you all to hellllll!" Oh, by the way, it wasn't the ground strap -- made no difference. Nuts. I swapped EVERYTHING and the best performance was with the 'new' receiver, Jim. With the new receiver I get absolutely no motor surging and only at extreme throttle (ahead and astern) is there just a slight twitch to the ballast servo (no, it was not any of servos). You won't have to yank the ballast sub-system servo -- not as hard as you thing: just use a long-stemmed Phillips screw driver to undue the servo securing bracket, loosen the set screws to the pushrod wheel-collars, and yank the servo and pushrod out of there. Not a big deal. As things are now, the slight servo twitch is only a small displacement -- not enough to unseat the vent valve (no, I don't like this, but the sub-system is now serviceable), and only occurs between 75-100% throttle. And, I can assure you, 50% throttle on the Type-7 is too fast as it is. Now, all the recent observations are with the devices hanging out and not packed together -- I'm taking a break from this cluster-**** to do some production work, but will get back to it tomorrow. If things still work when packaged together, I'll send the unit back to you. You'll be getting a new motor-bulkhead with motors, I'll enclose the old one and all parts as spares. Either re-program the SL-8 or get a new one, or a Lepton-6. Pictures to follow. Who was the flange-head idiot who designed ode to Rube Goldberg system anyway?!..... God, I hope Andy skips this thread!Who is John Galt?Comment
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I learned on my Holland that running esc/motors over about 40% forward or backward caused the thing to either plane upward going forward (the bow just naturally did this), or pull the stern down until the poor thing was standing 90 degrees vertical nose up in the water (reverse)!
Scale speed is much slower anyway, but even to keep the thing under control hot-rodding at faster than scale, I learned I didn't need much throttle. So I figure it's the same on the VIIC.
Odd about receiver. It is new, only dunked the SD a couple times for leak testing, and it stayed dry. I don't even have the SD pinned down yet in the hull. Only nipped the receiver wire is all.Last edited by H2Ohaze; 01-29-2013, 07:38 PM.Comment
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As is, the thing will work fine, Jim. But I want NO jiggle at all. Had a brain storm while out a Denny's: stick a dedicated BEC in there and see if the problem is an overloaded ESC-BEC. First thing tomorrow. if the receiver is starved because of low-voltage, that would explain the poor performance. Stay tuned ... same bat-channel, same bat-time!Who is John Galt?Comment
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David,
Why not test it with the old fashioned RX battery pack instead of a BEC?If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Interesting idea. Also, if my Rx was really bad, it could have masked any benefit a dedicated BEC made.Comment
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I tried my own BEC and no change. Swapped back and forth between 'your' and 'mine' receivers. Mine works, you're is glitching like crazy. I'll try the battery trick, Tom -- good call, you nasty old kit-assembler you.Who is John Galt?Comment
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