Other than Kevin Mcleod's Depth Cruiser which maintains the sub at a specific depth you set with the stick has anyone made an electronic device that will take a sub automatically to a preset depth like periscope depth (0.25m), operational depth (1m) and max depth (3m) using a 3 position switch on the transmitter?
Depth controller
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Depth controller
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If you use a transmitter with programmable throws and can set the 3-pos switch for different pulse outputs, you can do that with standard depth controllers down to 1 or 1.5m. Below that will require something bespoke, however anyone with any experience at operating model subs will tell you even in clear water below a a metre or two is pretty uninspiring as it's difficult to see what the boat is doing.
Get a boat going and you can experience this for yourself. -
Yeah I realized 3 meter is too much. A better option would be surface, periscope depth then 1 mt operating depth.
Someone showed me this https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/S...oller-DC1.htmlMake it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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I think your question highlights the difference between a hybrid dynamic/static diving system and a metered ballast system. In the hybrid, the sub is ideally trimmed to a portion of the sail being above the surface. Subs by Engel and Engelhardt use a Piston Tank as a ballast system and can trim to periscope depth. Thereafter, pitch control alone maintains that depth as demonstrated in Bob Martin’s latest 212 video. With the hybrid system, you need forward momentum and dive planes to maintain depth. The forward dive planes are used to correct the positive buoyancy since the stern planes can only correct for pitch. The forward dive planes need depth feedback to maintain autonomous depth control.
The hybrid system is simple and reliable but it complicates depth control. A metered ballast system is more complex but enables true static diving by attaining neutral buoyancy. The hybrid system is also inherently safer in failure mode since there is a chance it will eventually surface barring water intrusion.
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Nearly the entirety of this discussion -- though academically informative -- is wasted on those who actually play this game successfully in an open body of water.
Too much seeking-answers-to-non-existent-problems going on here.
Andy is point on with his comment, and did it without being blunt.
I'll be blunt: You don't need a dedicated 'depth keeper'! A dialed in angle-keeper and a PROPERLY TRIMMED boat is all you need. KISS!!!!!
You people!!!!!!!!.....Who is John Galt?Comment
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Sir, I hold you in the highest regard concerning this hobby. Thank you for making me realize that I am addressing the wrong audience (not sarcasm).Nearly the entirety of this discussion -- though academically informative -- is wasted on those who actually play this game successfully in an open body of water.
Too much seeking-answers-to-non-existent-problems going on here.
Andy is point on with his comment, and did it without being blunt.
I'll be blunt: You don't need a dedicated 'depth keeper'! A dialed in angle-keeper and a PROPERLY TRIMMED boat is all you need. KISS!!!!!
You people!!!!!!!!.....
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Need? Yep! Want... well, now that I've put depth-keepers in a few boats I've built now, I can say I'm a convert. Howard's 212 was rock solid with just rudder in put at 3ft depth. Didn't so much as wiggle underwater. Hell, David your own Kilo that I featured a few years ago was what initially convinced me they weren't a waste of money.Comment
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Combining pitch and depth feedback was Whiteheads Torpedo 'secret' form the 1860's. Improved depth accuracy from about 40ft to 6in.Comment
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Your comfortable with a gadget-rich environment; you've hired robots to do the lion's share of driving for you.
Need? Yep! Want... well, now that I've put depth-keepers in a few boats I've built now, I can say I'm a convert. Howard's 212 was rock solid with just rudder in put at 3ft depth. Didn't so much as wiggle underwater. Hell, David your own Kilo that I featured a few years ago was what initially convinced me they weren't a waste of money.
All I want is stability; an angle keeper is a must-have: with the boat tamed about the pitch access, I take control from there. Man-in-the-loop.
The rest of you, with your over-stabilized boats; you guys might as well hire a chauffeur!Who is John Galt?Comment
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With the system I'm asking you still have control of the throttle and rudder you just relegate depth keeping to an electronic aide like you relegate trim to an automatic pitch controller.
With the ADC you dive the boat manually to an estimated depth visually and when you release the stick will maintain that depth unless commanded to. My idea is you command the boat to one of preset depth and the system will maintain the depth using appropriate sensors until commanded to or overrode manually.Last edited by redboat219; Today, 09:18 AM.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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The risk with that is not knowing how deep the water is from where you are standing. Pre-judging water depth from the shore is hard to do even in clearest of water.
If you command the boat to go to 1 meter and the water is only 80cm deep, you're asking for your keel paint to be stripped.Comment
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This is sooooooooo far off the reality.With the system I'm asking you still have control of the throttle and rudder you just relegate depth keeping to an electronic aide like you relegate trim to an automatic pitch controller.
With the ADC you dive the boat manually to an estimated depth visually and when you release the stick will maintain that depth unless commanded to. My idea is you command the boat to one of preset depth and the system will maintain the depth using appropriate sensors until commanded to or overrode manually.
Romel, what you need to do is changing your perspective!
build the simpliest dynamic diver or use a gear pump and a rubber baloon as balast system and built an actually working model! No way that at the pond, in a pool or in your bathtub you will run that model on that specific preset depth without having any basic experience. You can install all those magic gizmos you are always asking for/writing about/ theorizing of but you will not,NOT-NOT! ever finish anything that way. Do the basic stuff, get your hands dirty, build first, add improvements based on your experience after driving your boat. You can build the most sophisticated submarine model with all that stuff, depht keeper, arduino, AI-based virtual crew, favorite coffee machine etc and the moment you put it in the water and pull the throttle, it will fail...
Basic building. 3 funcions, dive/rise, rudder left/right, fwd/reverse. Balast system optionally. Make it work, and make it work reproduceable. Make it work without 1hr preparations prior to running the sub each time you want to play with it. Learn to "fly" it by the sticks.
yes, there are all those impressive youtube videos of super submarine models, but thats not helpful imo, but declares building a working sub is"easy". It is not a good starting point.
Making a tube watertight, installing the basic electronics, some basic streamlining and maybe some paint and then gaining experience, that is my idea of a good starting point into that hobby. The more complexity you add, the more things can go wrong. The more switches you need to take care of, the less fun it will be to ride the boat. Instead, master to make the boat reasonably steerable, which can be hard enough.
Go and finish that KILO, build a dynamic diver from sewer pipe, but approach the subject practically!!!
Jörg
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