1/72 Revell Of Germany Type-9 .... It Starts!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Really like all the locating depressions on your molds!
Makes for dang near prefect registration!!
Good one, M!!

Particularly important on the disc-type tool as it is subjected to the distorting centrifugal forces present during the metal casting process.


M

[Slats]

Second previous comments - brilliant work.

David - PLEASE check your e-mail. I need to get that order ASAP.

Thanks
J

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[trout]

David,
what are you brushing onto the prop? Is it to seal it to the rubber so when the next pour of rubber it will not leak under the first pour?

[Subculture]

Mould release I would think.

[STARK]

Looks like Snot, Dave has a lot of that oozing from his nose most any time he works on a sub!

Man what another Fine Model from Revell, building one now for Static Display, I know,, but have another for R/C when I get a Fittings Kit from Dave!! Now if Revell would due the XXI in 1/72 I would be in heaven.

Brian :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looks like Snot, Dave has a lot of that oozing from his nose most any time he works on a sub!

Man what another Fine Model from Revell, building one now for Static Display, I know,, but have another for R/C when I get a Fittings Kit from Dave!! Now if Revell would due the XXI in 1/72 I would be in heaven.

Brian :)

Smart-ass, Bondo-boy! How ya do'n, Brian? This guy taught me much about the correct use of fillers and putties; and he did the scribing and other work on our 1/96 Type-212 kit, simply beautiful engraving work?

Give me a call before you come over, Brian. It would be my pleasure to fix you up with a fittings kit.

Yes, what a super model kit that Type-9 is! A pure joy to work with.

A big Type-21 would be nice, but all I hear about this thing is that it turns like a pig.

M

[STARK]

Damn you posted twice must be true when you hit a nerve like that!
Bondo Boy, hey 48 now I think it should be Bondo Man Dave, Dang just a little R-E-S-P-E-C-T here, yea sounds like we need a Speed Control that will reverse the screw for the direction you turn in, and add power to the outside screw to assist in turning may help.
And yes I will give you a call, man I have a Ark 1/48 scale 7c on the way bring it buy when it arives, and yea your right just a copy of the Revell, hell I got one of Dan's old 1/48 7s in the attic still. We allowed to post Static Display builds here?

Brian

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hell, yes, Brian. Post away. Anything you want (but nothing that will get me in jail, please).

M

[Von Hilde]

I was pondering the use of independent speed controls for some time with counter-rotating props on my big type II for maneuvering purposes. My canal is about 30 ft wide and it takes a two or three point turn with twin motors on my 25ft boat. The type II is almost 6 ft but I'm not sure what the 360 turn radius would be with its single rudder. When looking at the type IX compared to the type VII, they have similar thrust area configuration with the twin rudders centered with the prop shafts vertically and the dive planes on the horizontal center. The hydrodynamic differences in the turning radius is obviously due to the 25% increase in the hull length. The differences in performance between the full size 7 and 9 was quit notable in diving and handling as well as speed. Basically the sports car vs pickup truck syndrome. I suspect the idea of independent motor control will help immensely in the maneuvering in close quarters in the pool or small ponds.

[STARK]

Type 9 under construction as Static Display.
Much more has been done now and these are photos from a week or more ago, I have since tossed the Railings to make my own out of brass, and started to add the Eduard Photo Etch set for the 9.
I also used a Type 7C 41 Etch set for the Guns to help the model out a bit.

And Dave Thanks for the Compliments but we all know you showed me more than I you!!

More to come.

Brian

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Found some time in the shop to continue with one of the two kits I have to assemble and get operational. One for me. One for the Boss.

It's been my experience that the first things to get broken on these r/c converted plastic kits are any railings on the main deck. Such was the case with the Type-7 -- over time I eventually had to replace all of the fragile plastic railing with soldered .032" diameter brass rod. Same will be the case with the Type-9 models.

The good news is that the railing on the sail can be left plastic as it is not nearly as vulnerable to collision and handling accidents as are the deck railing.

I had to come up with a specialized soldering holding fixture to insure symmetry of the middle longitudinal lengths of deck railing. Note that I employ magnets that work to sandwitch the vertical elements of the railing (the stanchions), that has already been glued into the side of the hull, between the external removable magnet, and a smaller magnet set into the face of the holding fixture. It was an easy matter to solder the top longitudinal length of railing by hand -- it was this railing, along with the stanchions, that formed the indexing network that assured centering of the short lengths of middle longitudinal railing that fit between stanchions.



Since the stanchions were glued to the easily melted styrene plastic hull, I had to insure that not too much of the soldering heat conducted from the base of the stanchions got into the hull -- that's why the three aluminum heat-sinks you see in the shots.

Job is about 80% done here, a few more longitudinal pieces of railing to install and I can move onto the port side.

[Von Hilde]

Dave, I have never soldered anything that has been attached to plastic. will hemostats work, or are they to small of a mass to absorb the heat? In the past I have had to make a jig out of wood with the properly spaced holes for the stantions, which is a lot of extra work

[Kazzer]

Railings

Well, these all look very pretty, but I've found (on the rare occasions I actually get to sail a boat) that they collect weeds and other debris. If you're sailing in a pond or lake, perhaps the additions of these 'weed magnets' is a bad idea?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Von Hilde: To be effective, the heat-sink has to have a high heat-transfer rate. The one you see in my WIP are nearly pure aluminum (no plating). The heat-sink also should make as much contact with the work as possible. Most hemostats are plated which may, or may not contribute to effective heat transport between the work and the hemostat structure. Mike likely can give you some insight as to the heat transport ability of the common plating metals.

As you can see a great deal of time is saved if you use a portion of the model as the indexing-holding jig used to align and support the solder work.

Mike: I could not agree with you more. It takes very little weed or even leaves to wipe slick all the fancy railing and gun detail items atop a plastic models deck and sail. Hence the need to select your boating site carefully.

M