What is in your prep-sol? And you use it for plastic only or?
1/72 Revell Of Germany Type-9 .... It Starts!
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Tom:
Prep-Sol is a mild hydrocarbon based de-greasing liquid. Marketed at the car refinishing crowd. Strong enough solvent to cut grease and dirt, but mild enough to not melt or craze polystyrene and most other plastics. I scrub kit parts with a Prep-Sol saturated abrasive pad.
As you know, all injection formed kit parts retain a bit of the sprayed on mold-release agent applied to the metal tools used to form the trees -- the amount of retained mold-release on the surface of the parts being a function of plant protocol, and where along the application phase your parts were shot. Always assume your parts were shot immediately after the last misting of mold release and are heavily coated with glue-filler-putty-primer-paint inhibiting gunk.
Hence the need to clean the surface of all polystyrene, GRP, and resin kit parts.
Using Prep-Sol is easier than scrubbing the parts with scouring powder, stiff brushes, and lots of water.
Crazy:
Mr. Cat has been trained to rip my face off the instant he see's me slacking off in the shop. Ellie's idea.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Tom:
Prep-Sol is a mild hydrocarbon based de-greasing liquid. Marketed at the car refinishing crowd. Strong enough solvent to cut grease and dirt, but mild enough to not melt or craze polystyrene and most other plastics. I scrub kit parts with a Prep-Sol saturated abrasive pad.
As you know, all injection formed kit parts retain a bit of the sprayed on mold-release agent applied to the metal tools used to form the trees -- the amount of retained mold-release on the surface of the parts being a function of plant protocol, and where along the application phase your parts were shot. Always assume your parts were shot immediately after the last misting of mold release and are heavily coated with glue-filler-putty-primer-paint inhibiting gunk.
Hence the need to clean the surface of all polystyrene, GRP, and resin kit parts.
Using Prep-Sol is easier than scrubbing the parts with scouring powder, stiff brushes, and lots of water.
Crazy:
Mr. Cat has been trained to rip my face off the instant he see's me slacking off in the shop. Ellie's idea.
MComment
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Dave,
If I have a type 212 driver that's currently in my nautilus, could a double shaft output motor housing be swapped in place to run this hull? I'm thinking along the lines of having a module to swap reciever but have duplicate servos and esc, etc.Comment
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Buellman:
You mean outfitting with 2" SD you have with a two-motor motor-bulkhead as used with the Type-7 and SEAVIEW? Not enough ballast tank on the SD you have to float the Type-9 properly. Other than that, a viable concept.
However, I don't sell discrete stuff anymore other than the 3.5 SD motor bulkheads and cylinder kit. When we did, it turned into a logistical nightmare for the Caswell people.
Von:
No such luck with my cat-from-hell. He sits in a dark corner of the shop, his beady little red eyes ever watching for an opening. It's awful!.... simply awful!
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Ok Dave,
I just now realized your going 2.5inch in it. What about putting the gato drive unit into the shorter tube? But I guess that goes with the issue with caswell only selling complete units too?
One thing I noticed in the prototype subdriver pictures. I'd rather see the check valve vent go into the battery side dry space. My two cents.Comment
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What do you have here, and what exactly do you need?Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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The amount of work that this Guy gets done in such a short period of time is just amazing.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Key ingredients:
1. Supportive wife
2. Well outfitted work-space
3. Dedication to all aspects of the Craft
4. Patient Boss and clients
5. A society that rewards those who produce useful goods or service, and kicks the **** out of those who don't (wishful thinking) ... Ayn Rand, call your office
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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