OMG!! The mans got 15 Dremels hanging on his work bench.
1/72 Revell Of Germany Type-9 .... It Starts!
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G'morning, M!
Great stuff, as usual!
A couple of questions, if I may-
1. What type of RTV do you use for prop casting? Is it a special type of high-temp silicone? Also, I assume you pour white metal into the molds to cast the props?
2. You utilize renshape blocks to hold the magnets which secure the decks Is renshape impervious to water retention?
Have done quite a bit of patternmaking using renshape, but never in a wet environment.
Your assistance, as always, is much appreciated!
Crazy-1, out!!!
BJB Inc's. TC-5050 Platinum-cure RTV. Yes, white metal; 95% Tin, 5% Antimony. I'll have some shots of the casting process tonight for you.
RenShape is a closed-cell dense foam, so won't water-log. The one in this model are atypical from the production magnet foundations -- those will be cast resin. I love RenShape!
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Thanks, M!!
The reason I asked about the prop casting is that I still have a really small 1:350 Hobby Boss USS Virginia that I'd like to, eventually, r/c. The plastic prop provided is seriously flimsy, and not sure how else to rectify the situation other than fabbing one from white metal. Of course, any alternative suggestions would be great! Epoxy or resin dip, mayhaps????
While waiting for things to dry on my Skippy, I'm still in the process of trying to develop a viable 1" o.d. (?) wtc for the little "Ginny"! I'm pretty confident that I can pull it off. I think she'd make a pretty neat little dynamic diver for really limited sized "bodies of water. Film at eleven!! ( Or not!! Hah!!)Comment
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Fab one from brass sheet and stock. The boss will be fiddly work, but it's doable.
For a 1" WTC, I would bypass normal extruded plastic tubing, and think seriously about making my own composite tube by winding some glass tape, saturated in epoxy resin around a mandrel. This could be something simple like a wax candle of the right diameter, or aluminium tube. The latter would need to be treated with release agent. Once cured you should be able to obtain a release by putting the tube in the freezer for a few hours, the aluminium will contract more than the glass tube, and you should be able to knock it out.
The reward for the hard work will be an optimal tube, light but strong, with a minimal wall thickness giving you more room inside.Last edited by Subculture; 01-02-2014, 06:16 PM.Comment
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Thanks, Subculture!!
I had considered that, but it's a 7-bladed prop which is only 1/2" in diameter!!
At 67, I don't think I can afford to burn out quite that many brain cells!!
Harbor Models has a 1/2" diameter prop that will most likely be o.k. It's 4-bladed, but the prop is shrouded anyway so it would be fine, but for such a small sub, I'd be a little concerned with the extra weight!! ( Got foam???)Comment
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Amazing how the fitings are being done and how they fit inside the sub. I'm start thinking that HWSNBN took part in the desing of the sub model. Pay special attention on the picture from the great man doing "Spanish yoga" (as siesta is also known), closely watched by the Door's Guard.Comment
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Spanish Yoga. Ha! I call it, the hideous afternoon nap. I know its time to drag my fat ass back to the shop when Mr. Cat puts his fresh-from-the-litter-box paws on my face.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Those propellers will be cleaned up, ganged into a disc type metal-casting tool which in turn will be used for production work.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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