1/72 Revell Of Germany Type-9 .... It Starts!

[Slats]

Look here Mr. M

I am not your mother. You obviously have a problem with your computer as it keeps posting your messages twice. I shouldn't have to clean up after you, so delete your duplications please.
And try and find out why your beat up POS of a computer is doing this. Have you rewound the elastic band? Did the duct tape fall off?

And BTW dare I mention S L A T S order?


Ha! Ha! Ha!

David try resetting your internet browser, delete all cookies, delete the cache, and try and see if the double posts don't keep on occurring.

In David's defense Mike, every time I post I get an error message at the top of the screen. It still posts my post, but its weird.

Mike - yes do mention my order... as a baseball bat to his knees might cause offence.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Worked out a rough estimate of how much ballast water the SD's ballast tank will need to hold to get the above-waterline portions of this model below the surface. Little math was required: as polystyrene has about the same specific gravity (density) as fresh water, it was a simple matter of taking all the kit parts of items above the waterline (deck, sail, guns, deck fittings, railing, etc) and weigh them. I then estimated the volume of the sides of the hull above waterline and assigned a weight to that. Added it all together and I find that I need a bit less than 10-ounces of water to get this sucker to submerged trim.

The 1/72 GATO needs a bit over 25-ounces of water to submerge!

Great! I can use a 2" SD which will be an un-crowded fit within the hull.

M

[redboat219]

I can use a 2" SD which will be an un-crowded fit within the hull.

M

Maybe you can use a Seaview subdriver.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Maybe you can use a Seaview subdriver.

You read my mind. Only difference between the 2" SEAVIEW SD and the one for the 1/72 Type-9 is shaping up to be a ballast tank shorter by 4.5-inches and the two motors wired to counter-rotate.

... and there's room in there for a forward and after nest. Whooya!

M

[redboat219]

Wouldn't the Type VII's SD work here? Maybe move the forward ballast bulkhead forward to the battery compartment.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Then .... where do you put the battery?

M

[redboat219]

I didn't say put the ballast tank bulkhead all the way forward, maybe just enough to fit in a small battery pack. With a SAS you can drop the internal propel tank giving additional volume.

BTW, didn't your old wtc lack a dedicated battery compartment.

[redboat219]

Edited.

Now I'm double posting like him...

[Albion]

The type 7 sub driver already has quite a small battery area. And I don't think you will get anything longer than the current type 7 sub driver in the type 7. It's a very tight fit in there, so no the 9 won't go in the 7

Back to the IX

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

They were freebee review, sizing mules sent straight from Revell of Germany.

M

[greenman407]

Since Dave said that they modeled it after U505, I started searching thru everything I could find on the U505 Sonar Dome. I came up with these plus a few others.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I love those shots, Mark. Keep them coming please. And I so appreciate that the museum configured the boat with closed and opened shutter-doors/muzzle doors. What a wealth of prototype information here.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[Scott T]

I know this will make you mad!
You can do better on the shaft alignment. Go the extra Mile. You have the ability, I do not.

Scott T

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I know this will make you mad!
You can do better on the shaft alignment. Go the extra Mile. You have the ability, I do not.

Scott T

Not at all. Critical examination and constructive comment is always welcome. And your statement is fact.

However, I don't have the luxury of time. The arrangement I've established remains as is as it has to serve several shafting arrangement, not just the Type-9's.

M