After applying the rivets I started painting the outer hull. First the deck. It got a dark wood colored primer, topped with Vallejo concrete to create this worn teak look. Continued by shading various boards with highly thinned down sand and grey tones. Grey filter, grey wash to bring out the recesses between the boards and then a finish with dry brushing white grey. Worked out well. After that, I coated the deck with silk clear coat, masked the deck and applied the base color of the conning tower and upper deck structure.
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Base colors are applied. With cut-away boats that’s allways a tricky job, as there is no room for error masking the interior. But it went down quite well. Decals are also on. Next is psinting the details and then the weathering.
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Working on the railing of my 1/72 scale Type II submarine Vesikko with interior. As the railing provided with the kit is way too clumsy, I copied an approach I saw in a YouTube video (https://youtu.be/hdhhQDrhcuY?si=m6dl7-52cWE2E7rx) and fabricated my own version out of 0.4 mm outer diameter brass tube. I bent the struts along 3D-printed templates and soldered the vertical rails on the boat. Tedious, but worth the effort.
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I hate rigging….I cannot imagine how some folks can enjoy rigging historical sailing ships . But it has to be done anyways. For Vesikko the rigging basically is installing the wire antennas with their insulators. The insulators of the kit are cast in resin and are way too clumsy. So I printed new ones with 80% of the kit‘s size. 24 of them. They all got a two tone paint job…tedious. And now it’s me, the rigging thread and superglue. I printed a tool to get the distance between the insulators the same for all 24 pieces. First try worked O.K.. Seven more to go.
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Good job! The next ones will be done much quicker!
there's nothing better than a good jig...
did you print the holes along with the insulatots or did you have to drill them?
JörgComment
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