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Hms holland 1 build

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  • #46
    Getting closer for sure Rob. Keep that momentum going.

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    • #47
      Don't forget to install noise suppression caps on the pump motor. Atleast 1 across the terminals.
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      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

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      • #48
        Originally posted by rwtdiver
        Making some progress!



        The ballast tank and pump are installed! I have done some test runs, and the pump and tank fill and drain with no leaks. I do have a very small hole in the bottom of the tank so that I can drain all the water out of the system to allow it to dry out when not in use. The drain line is capped of course when the system is in use.

        Now I can move on to installing the servos, ESC, and the receiver to complete the WTC!

        Rob
        "Firemen can stand the heat"
        Is your BT in the forward section of your wtc?
        Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

        Comment


        • #49
          Up-date on the HOLLAND 1 Build.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	HOLLAND ! PROGRESS 1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	42.9 KB ID:	164201

          I have the hull of the boat completed, with the accessories, and I am about to start on the stern section. I do have the brass sleeves and the control surface rods cut and sized out. The WTC is for the most part complete with the exception of the rudder and stern dive plane control linkages and the control wiring, ESC, servos, and motor!

          Rob
          "Firemen can stand the heat"
          Last edited by rwtdiver; 08-29-2022, 01:14 PM.

          Comment


          • #50
            Today I installed the stern section to the main hull, after doing a preliminary fitting of the rudders and dive planes.

            Click image for larger version

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            I installed the brass sleeves for the two bellows that will be used for the rudder and dive plane rods to extend through the end cap.

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            The photos also show the approximate location of the drive motor.

            Rob
            "Firemen can stand the heat"

            Comment


            • #51
              Rob,
              are the interns of the cylinder 3D also?
              Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Das Boot View Post
                Rob,
                are the interns of the cylinder 3D also?
                Yes, they are!

                Click image for larger version  Name:	Drive system 4.jpg Views:	0 Size:	62.6 KB ID:	164245Click image for larger version  Name:	ALBACORE 1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	73.1 KB ID:	164246

                Click image for larger version  Name:	HMS HOLLAND 39.jpg Views:	0 Size:	59.1 KB ID:	164247Click image for larger version  Name:	P4040007.jpg Views:	0 Size:	77.9 KB ID:	164248

                I scratch build all my cylinders using only 3D printing with PLA. I have purchased two premade cylinders from Bob, (Nautilus Drydocks) and David M. gave me a cylinder for one of my boats. Otherwise, I use "TINKERCAD" for my scratch building designs.

                Here is one of my ballast tank designs. All scratch built!

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftbmbgRnpHI

                Rob
                "Firemen can stand the heat"
                Last edited by rwtdiver; 08-29-2022, 08:59 PM.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Just as a side note:

                  For those of you that just 3D Print using PLA and you are doing your own WTC using only PLA especially on the end caps. I also use it to seal the interior of the hulls on my boats. There is a product that I use on all my end caps!

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	HMS HOLLAND 82.jpg Views:	0 Size:	78.8 KB ID:	164253

                  I first and always make sure I am infilling at 100% on ALL my projects when I am using PLA. This spray sealer works great on end caps! I spray the entire end cap with one total coverage coat. (DON'T OVER DO IT) I the use masking tape around the outside surface of the O-ring side of the cap, and then one more coat of the sealer. You also want to make sure that you have all your end cap penetration completed.

                  This sealant really works well if you prep your work and apply it properly! This is just a suggestion! I realize there are many different sealers and ways to seal end caps! (And I have tried them all) This works for me!

                  Now, I would like to move back onto my build!!

                  Rob
                  "Firemen can stand the heat"
                  Last edited by rwtdiver; 08-30-2022, 02:26 AM.

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                  • #54
                    Rob,
                    I want to see this boat in the water.
                    Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Das Boot View Post
                      Rob,
                      I want to see this boat in the water.
                      OK! Got it, and back at it!! :-))

                      Rob
                      "Firemen can stand the heat"

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Today's progress.

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                        I cut the slots in both sides of the stern section for the rudder and dive planes push rods. I am very pleased with a little planning and thinking ahead (quite an accomplishment for an old man) I managed to get a straight shot from both servos to the control surfaces!

                        I most likely will fabricate new brass horns rather than use the 3D printed ones, the brass would much better!

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat"

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Rob
                          have you check the clearance between the prop and the stern plane control rods. looking at the top photo it seems like the control rod passes within the arc of the propeller blades unless you put a Z bend on the rod and position the location of the control horn higher ( position of 2 holes) .
                          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
                            Rob
                            have you check the clearance between the prop and the stern plane control rods. looking at the top photo it seems like the control rod passes within the arc of the propeller blades unless you put a Z bend on the rod and position the location of the control horn higher ( position of 2 holes) .
                            Hi Romel,

                            Won't be a problem, I have 3/16" plus on both sides of the control rods. Thank you for your observations. A "Z" bend is certainly a viable option if needed! You always keep running a straight course! :-))

                            Rob
                            "Firemen can stand the heat"
                            Last edited by rwtdiver; 08-30-2022, 09:26 PM.

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                            • #59
                              Click image for larger version

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                              Some photos of a British X-craft stern control rods Click image for larger version

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                              Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Thanks for the photos Romel!

                                I do see where the surface control rods seem to be more outside the prop guard as per say! I am installing the motor and the prop this AM and will have a better idea as to the control rod locations! Thanks again for the advice and photos!

                                Rob
                                "Firemen can stand the heat"

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