My 1:77 Scale Disney Nautilus Build

[rwtdiver]

Today I worked on the stern section of the Nautilus!





Installed the support rings, and the brass tube for the rudder linkage!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Your SD will work perfectly fine. I've built a dozen of these with the standard 212 SubDriver and they work perfectly in terms of ballast displacement. Fortunately, the Nautilus has a very tiny freeboard (waterline is probably only 1/4" down from the deck. In the movie, she could emerge so that the waterline was just at the seam between the salon blister and hull, but at that height, the skiff was fully dry and couldn't be launched.

Bob,

Thank you very much for that information! I truly do not understand the total operation of these boats! But I am trying my best to take it all in and learn and understand why they do what they do!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[RCSubGuy]

Your SD will work perfectly fine. I've built a dozen of these with the standard 212 SubDriver and they work perfectly in terms of ballast displacement. Fortunately, the Nautilus has a very tiny freeboard (waterline is probably only 1/4" down from the deck. In the movie, she could emerge so that the waterline was just at the seam between the salon blister and hull, but at that height, the skiff was fully dry and couldn't be launched.


Bob

[rwtdiver]

So thick that unless you employ heroic measures to reduce the displacement of above waterline structures you're ballast tank will have to be unreasonably large.

Oh Man!

Before I have to go this route, I think I will try the SD that came with the kit first! I thank you David for posting up those scary photos!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm thinking of trying to lay up a new hull in epoxy fiberglass with a cast lower section. Would be a hybrid fabrication technique, but it would vastly reduce the weight above the waterline. Not many know, but those hulls are nominally 1/4" thick!

So thick that unless you employ heroic measures to reduce the displacement of above waterline structures you're ballast tank will have to be unreasonably large.

[RCSubGuy]

I'm thinking of trying to lay up a new hull in epoxy fiberglass with a cast lower section. Would be a hybrid fabrication technique, but it would vastly reduce the weight above the waterline. Not many know, but those hulls are nominally 1/4" thick!

[rwtdiver]

I have completed the stern prop shaft adaptor system on the upper hull and the lower hull!



As stated above, this stern prop shaft system will allow the prop shaft and prop to move in the vertical up and down.
I have really learned one thing about the Disney Nautilus build, there is a lot of cutting and material removal for the build! You just have to take your time, and have the tooling!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

https://youtu.be/kOO_sz6Sh7U 02:15

Thank you for the YouTube David! That is one nice looking Nautilus!

Bob! Thank you for the answer to my question on the brass photoetch! I know we covered that question on our ZOOM last week, just trying to learn all I can and do it the right way!

Thanks again, I do appreciate the information!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

https://youtu.be/kOO_sz6Sh7U 02:15

[RCSubGuy]

I have a question? I know this has most likely been answered a hundred times! I am thinking about purchasing from (Nautilus Drydocks) the seven piece photoetch kit for the Disney Nautilus! I do not want to paint or damage the top of the photoetch, I want the brass to show. I am going to do a rusty look for my final finish and then apply the photoetch. If I sand away some of the rusty finish and just do a light sanding to the underside of the photoetch and glue it down with super glue will that be adequate to hold it in place?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

Yep, should be fine. The big thing is creating a rough surface for your glue to adhere to.

Bob

[rwtdiver]

In order to install the prop shaft adaptor, I am going to have to remove more material from the bottom of the hull at the stern. This will allow the movement required for the shaft adaptor to work correctly!



Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I have a question? I know this has most likely been answered a hundred times! I am thinking about purchasing from (Nautilus Drydocks) the seven piece photoetch kit for the Disney Nautilus! I do not want to paint or damage the top of the photoetch, I want the brass to show. I am going to do a rusty look for my final finish and then apply the photoetch. If I sand away some of the rusty finish and just do a light sanding to the underside of the photoetch and glue it down with super glue will that be adequate to hold it in place?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Today I worked on the stern of the boat, and notched out the area around the prop shaft exit. In order to install the prop shaft adaptor that will allow the prop to move up and down in a slight vertical movement to allow the boat to submerge and surface more effectively!



There was some material removal to allow this fitting to be installed. If you go to Nautilus Drydocks you will see this installation and how it will operate on his YouTube!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Got my computer up and running, so I can continue on with my build blog!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Looking good, Rob! I saw you started a message on my site, but there was no content. You cool? Need anything?

Bob

Thank you Bob!

Today I installed the port and starboard salon frames, and did some fill in around the outside of the frame as needed! I also cleaned up the bottom and top of the hull.



Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"