My 1:77 Scale Disney Nautilus Build

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  • rwtdiver
    Vice Admiral
    • Feb 2019
    • 1768

    #46
    This is really no big deal, but it was something I ran into on stern with the rudder!

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    I had to add an additional 3/16" of material to the rudder top to fill in a gap between the top of the rudder and the fin attachment! I will shape this piece to make it fit properly!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12253

      #47
      Originally posted by rwtdiver
      This is really no big deal, but it was something I ran into on stern with the rudder!

      Click image for larger version

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      I had to add an additional 3/16" of material to the rudder top to fill in a gap between the top of the rudder and the fin attachment! I will shape this piece to make it fit properly!

      Rob
      "Firemen can stand the heat"
      I had to do the same thing on the two I assembled. No biggie.

      David
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • rwtdiver
        Vice Admiral
        • Feb 2019
        • 1768

        #48
        Hi David!

        I thought it might have been I missed something during assembly! But none the less, that bright piece of brass was just glaring at me every time I looked at it! Like you just had to do something with it!:-)

        Rob
        "Firemen can stand the heat"

        Comment

        • RCSubGuy
          Welcome to my underwater realm!
          • Aug 2009
          • 1768

          #49
          Pretty sure that issue is an artifact of the casting process and not in the design of the masters. The tails warped away from each other, spreading that gap. If you look at that section carefully from the side, I bet you’ll see the horizontal lines of the rudder opening are not parallel, but rather angled away from each other. You can fix it by heating both and bringing back to the proper position. Would have saved messing around with the rudder extension, though that is equally viable as a solution.

          Bob

          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator
            • Aug 2008
            • 12253

            #50
            Originally posted by SubHuman
            Pretty sure that issue is an artifact of the casting process and not in the design of the masters. The tails warped away from each other, spreading that gap. If you look at that section carefully from the side, I bet you’ll see the horizontal lines of the rudder opening are not parallel, but rather angled away from each other. You can fix it by heating both and bringing back to the proper position. Would have saved messing around with the rudder extension, though that is equally viable as a solution.

            Bob
            Trouble is, resin has a memory. You apply heat and stress the structure to the desired shape and hold the pressure till the part cools and it retains the desired shape -- but only as long as the ambient temperature does not rise substantially. However, take it to the lake -- the work sits under the hot summer sun for a few minutes -- and the structure returns to its original (disfigured) shape. The permanent fix is to break/cut off the upper vertical stabilizer (shark-fin), reposition it and bond with a GRP reinforcing at the union.

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            David
            Who is John Galt?

            Comment

            • rwtdiver
              Vice Admiral
              • Feb 2019
              • 1768

              #51
              Originally posted by SubHuman
              Pretty sure that issue is an artifact of the casting process and not in the design of the masters. The tails warped away from each other, spreading that gap. If you look at that section carefully from the side, I bet you’ll see the horizontal lines of the rudder opening are not parallel, but rather angled away from each other. You can fix it by heating both and bringing back to the proper position. Would have saved messing around with the rudder extension, though that is equally viable as a solution.

              Bob
              No problem! Just part of this wonderful hobby! Patience and perseverance!!

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              The piece I added to the top took care of the of the gap! Appreciate the input from Bob & David!

              Rob
              "Firemen can stand the heat"
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • Monahan Steam Models
                Captain
                • Apr 2020
                • 755

                #52
                Looks great Rob. Nice work. You’re making really good progress on this build.

                Have you seen these?



                They have a large selection of different size rivet resin transfers. I will be picking some of these up to use on the type VIIC build to repair the river details in areas where I need to fill and sand the hull.

                Comment

                • rwtdiver
                  Vice Admiral
                  • Feb 2019
                  • 1768

                  #53
                  Originally posted by Monahan Steam Models
                  Looks great Rob. Nice work. You’re making really good progress on this build.

                  Have you seen these?



                  They have a large selection of different size rivet resin transfers. I will be picking some of these up to use on the type VIIC build to repair the river details in areas where I need to fill and sand the hull.
                  Thank you! And thanks for sharing the web site!

                  I also have used a little trick that I used when I was building model airplanes way back when! Thin CA through a very fine tip would allow you make very minute drops that would form up to make panel line rivets along the fuse and wings! Thanks again for the link up on archertransfers, looks like they have real nice stuff!

                  Rob
                  "Firemen cab stand the heat"

                  Comment

                  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                    Moderator
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 12253

                    #54
                    Originally posted by rwtdiver
                    I started the exterior finish work on my Nautilus today! At this point I have just about achieved the orange rust color!





                    I am using all Acrylic matte finishes, and applying with a brush. Tomorrow I will apply a wash of a combination dark brown with some added black to tone it down a little. After that some going over the seams and other areas where rust would collect using a smaller detail brush! After the paints cure out I will coat with dead flat clear coats to finish it off! Then it's off to the SD and the electronics!

                    Rob
                    "Firemen can stand the heat"
                    Look over the miniatures in the film. How much running rust do you see (discounting the full scale above-waterline set piece)? And rust patches?

                    Less is more when it comes to weathering -- always emulate the look of the prototype. Research is everything.

                    Consider 'real' rust, applied as a wash. Such as...

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                    And those pesky clear-parts:

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                    David
                    Who is John Galt?

                    Comment

                    • rwtdiver
                      Vice Admiral
                      • Feb 2019
                      • 1768

                      #55
                      Thank you David! I do appreciate all your input and great ideas!

                      Rob

                      Comment

                      • rwtdiver
                        Vice Admiral
                        • Feb 2019
                        • 1768

                        #56
                        The finish process is now complete! Photo below first wash!!

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                        The photos below is the finish product, except for clear coat!!

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                        To achieve the look I was after, I used 4 different water base acrylic colors to get the effect! The next part of the finish will be a matte clear coat! Now we move onto the electronic component wiring in the SD, and finish up the lighting system!

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat"

                        Comment

                        • rwtdiver
                          Vice Admiral
                          • Feb 2019
                          • 1768

                          #57
                          In this photo is the acrylic water base colors that I used to achieve the final look that I was after! The colors where applied and then I would spray water and brush the colors out by diluting with water!

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                          Rob
                          "Firemen can stand the heat"

                          Comment

                          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                            Moderator
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 12253

                            #58
                            Very, very nice work, Rob.

                            David
                            Who is John Galt?

                            Comment

                            • rwtdiver
                              Vice Admiral
                              • Feb 2019
                              • 1768

                              #59
                              Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              Very, very nice work, Rob.

                              David
                              Thank you David! I have learned a lot from looking at your work and knowledge as how to apply and use different paints. I am really tied to using water base products because of my inhouse shop & healthy environment requirements! Non the less getting that really nice compliment from you, means a lot to me! Thank you!

                              Rob
                              "Firemen can stand the heat"

                              Comment

                              • rwtdiver
                                Vice Admiral
                                • Feb 2019
                                • 1768

                                #60
                                At this point the final finish is complete! Yesterday I applied 3 light coats of clear coat, and it has now cured for 24 hours!

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                                Next step will be to finish up the lighting around the salon area! I am still waiting on the new lens kit that I ordered from Nautilus Drydocks, but when they arrive that will complete the exterior of the boat! The only item I have left to complete is the wiring connections and the SD itself! After that we will be "Water Bound" This will be my very first fully operational (DIVING) submarine that I built!

                                Rob
                                "Firemen can stand the heat"

                                Comment

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