3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

[rwtdiver]

I have a question on my motor shaft end cap seal?


The shaft does seem to have some resistance as I turn the shaft. Is there a lubricate that would rejuvenate these type of cup seals?

Appreciate any input!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

OK! Starting to make some headway with the Albacore WTC!




End caps are completed, servo tray is complete with servos mounted, and motor tray is complete, motor not installed yet!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

ffr2608,

Thanks for the info! The fact that it is manufactured in the USA makes it possibility for use on my next project. Like your drug smuggling boat!

I know that Bob Martin (Nautilus Drydocks) recommends the PLA plus for his 3D printed Submarine files.

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[ffr2608]

I have been using Duramic PLA plus from Amazon. I have a raw part in direct sunlight and one immersed in water. 5 months later, I see no water ingress or warping or cracking. Been testing this drug smuggling boat for some time in raw PLA with no issues either. All Duramic….

[rwtdiver]

3D Printing offers up so many different types of machines, types of filaments, types of slicing downloads, it's endless what is out there, and so many different ways of doing things! With this in mind, I think someone should start-up a blog just for 3D printing in general only! The point of my blog is building Submarines and there corresponding components.

You just have to do what works for you, and then "Master The Process"

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Sinksalot]

Yea my first 3D printer was a da Vinci 1.0 Pro. I still use it to print with ABS, is does a great job. the Da Vinci Pro you can use any PLA or ABS filament brand in it. I also own a Tronxy X5SA Pro with a Hemera hotend on it. That is my main printer. For my End caps and hull I use ASA filament. Main reason is comes out the exact size I want it to come out, so I get a better fit. However your printer has to be able to get hot. 270 degrees on hotend and 110 degrees on bed. However that being said, once the Elegoo Saturn 3D resin printer come out. I will buy it and print endcaps and hull parts out of resin. Also I store all my filament in a air tight box I bought at walmart. I bought 1 Quart Premium Blue Indicating Silica Gel Beads that suck the water out of the air and put them at the bottom of the box. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013L31PQ0

[rwtdiver]

After sizing up the end caps I now have the finished end caps printed and ready for installation.




But before I finish up the end caps, I will start 3D printing the mounting systems for the motor, servos, ESC, RX, and the battery holder. So I will get back to designing and printing these parts for the WTC.

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I guess I like the OLD tried and true methods of 3D Printing! PLA all the way! Now we can get to this project at hand. The Albacore restoration.

The 3.5"X12" acrylic tubes have arrived so I can get started on the fittings for the WTC.



I am still working on the concept design and fitting sizes!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[a1965l]

That's one of the things I mean to do but never seem to.. pull the roll off the printer when I'm done printing and put it back in the bag. I just ordered 2 more rolls of filament, one more PLA and one of PET-G. We have a member at our club who 3-d printed an airplane with PET-G and he reports it's been flying well for the past year, so I figured I ought to give it a try as well. I would also like to experiment with nylon, but need to upgrade the hot end first, and while that's on the to-do list, unfortunately there are a lot of other, more pressing things that are on the list as well.

[rwtdiver]

a19651,

I have been doing 3D printing for 8 years now and have NEVER used anything but PLA! You do not want to leave your PLA out in direct sunlight! you also have to be careful with moisture content. The filament will expand if it absorbs to much moisture, which in turn can cause nozzle problems. The other thing I like to do with my PLA filament, is not to leave it out in the open for extended times, (when not in use) I like to store my filament everyday if I am not using it. Some may say that is overkill, but it makes the PLA last longer (some rolls I have are 2 to 3 years old) and I do not have any problem with moisture or issues with age.

My solution:



I use the gallon size Ziploc vacuum freezer bag with the hand pump. I also use 2 or 3 fresh silica gel bags. What the bags do for you is to cover the PLA roll and the pump draws all the air & moisture out and along with the silica it keeps the PLA fresh and dry. This system works great for me. I never have clogged valves or filament that dry's out and breaks.

I am sure there are lots of better filaments on the market for building Submarines. If the PLA is sealed properly and you keep it out of DIRECT & EXTREME heat and sunlight it works great. I will use nothing else. No toxins and it is environmentally safer to use! I have 3 PLA printed submarines (built and sealed PROPERLY) that have been in my pool several time (15 to 20 min at a time) No problems at all!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[a1965l]

I'm kind of a noob at PLA printing. I started with a DaVinci, and only ran ABS through it. It is an enclosed printer, which is what ABS apparently likes. I finally got tired of $70 cartridges and ditched it in favor of an Ender 3, and started using PLA. I've done a couple experimental prints with ABS, but have adhesion problems with the magnetic flexible mat you get as a print bed. I do have a glass print bed, and one of these days I'll re-calibrate the Z axis and try it out.

I have noted, however, that my roll of PLA filament, which is exposed to the sun when installed in the printer, seems to get brittle very quickly while the ABS does not. It might be that I'm using cheap Amazon Basics filament, and need to go back to a pricier, name brand. The things I have sitting around the house here that were printed in PLA seem to be holding up just fine, and a couple of them sit right in the sunlight for extended periods of the day. I'm doing some minor structure for the 688 in PLA, and so far they've all come out excellent, and seem to have no trouble being drilled and holding fasteners. I would like to do more experimentation with ABS, however...

[rwtdiver]

I went through the electronics, and everything seems to be working OK! The motor and belt drive gear system is also working, and by looks of the prop size it should move through the water with some authority!






The old Hitec receiver had some internal water damage so I will be replacing that part of the system and using my VEX TX & RX system. Also the original owner removed one of the mounting supports on one side of each of the two Hitec HS-322HD servos. They do work, so I will design a mount for them as well.

This will be a fun project, and we will see what happens!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[trout]

It will be nice to see it running! The old equipment, if it still works, had subs running wonderfully 20+ years ago. So, it is very cool you are going to get it working using the older tech.

[rwtdiver]

Just got word today that my 3.5" cylinders have shipped and will be here Saturday! Now I can get back to the Albacore build!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[george]

Hi Rob
No it`s not a sickness, neat is always better during setups of equipment. Easier later on to find faults and repair them.
George