Today's work on the little Revell SKIPJACK fittings kit

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Get a few sets of the very small Deans connectors. Solder the male end into the charger wires, the female end into the battery -- compatibility! Life is good, harmony restored to the universe.

http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/lithium-polymer-batteries/micro-wiring-connectors.html

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Get a few sets of the very small Deans connectors. Solder the male end into the charger wires, the female end into the battery -- compatibility! Life is good, harmony restored to the universe.

http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/lithium-polymer-batteries/micro-wiring-connectors.html

M

[crazygary]

Back again, M.

Ordered, and have received, a battery charger for the Vislero 7.4/850Mah battery but the charger
fitting is quite a bit different from that of the battery!

I e-mailed Caswells customer service yesterday regarding that, but haven't heard back as yet!

LiPo has a typical "plugs-into-the-rx" type connector, but the battery has something, well....???

Pretty neat looking fitting, but.....No cigar??

Just asking if you may be able to shed any light on this "circumstance"?

Many thanks for your anticipated response.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hello, M!

A question for future reference!

As my next build will, more than likely, be the Trumpeter 1/144 Gato, I was wondering
if the second gear has to be secured to the gearbox to avoid any possibility of it slipping out during operation?

I'm assuming that the connection between the prop shaft and gear, via the flexible tubing, would be sufficient?

No retainer to prevent axial motion of the idler gear -- it rides free in its bushing. Both astern and ahead thrust loads are presented to the forward and after faces of the strut bearing.

M

[crazygary]

Hello, M!

A question for future reference!

As my next build will, more than likely, be the Trumpeter 1/144 Gato, I was wondering
if the second gear has to be secured to the gearbox to avoid any possibility of it slipping out during operation?

I'm assuming that the connection between the prop shaft and gear, via the flexible tubing, would be sufficient?

[crazygary]

Oops!!

Also, thanks for the diagram!!

[crazygary]

Thank you kind sir!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

G'Day, M!

Just received my Vislero LiPo and Nano ESC from Mike, and need to ask for your valued assistance.

It appears that the "engine room" is a bit crowded with both of those items, but they fit fine. The pushbutton on the ESC, if laid on top of the battery, touches the i.d. of the tube. Is there a chance that this could be problematic? I can flip the ESC over and let the button hang down off the end of the battery!

Also, the ESC has 2 sets of motor connectors. One pair are individual, and the other pair terminate in a 2-pronged connector. Which ones get connected to the motor, and can the other pair just be de-soldered so as not to take up any extra real estate within the wtc?

Many thanks for your input, as is always appreciated!

If you have too, shave the button back so it won't hit anything when you cram it in there.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

G'Day, M!

Just received my Vislero LiPo and Nano ESC from Mike, and need to ask for your valued assistance.

It appears that the "engine room" is a bit crowded with both of those items, but they fit fine. The pushbutton on the ESC, if laid on top of the battery, touches the i.d. of the tube. Is there a chance that this could be problematic? I can flip the ESC over and let the button hang down off the end of the battery!

Also, the ESC has 2 sets of motor connectors. One pair are individual, and the other pair terminate in a 2-pronged connector. Which ones get connected to the motor, and can the other pair just be de-soldered so as not to take up any extra real estate within the wtc?

Many thanks for your input, as is always appreciated!

If you have too, shave the button back so it won't hit anything when you cram it in there.

M

[crazygary]

G'Day, M!

Just received my Vislero LiPo and Nano ESC from Mike, and need to ask for your valued assistance.

It appears that the "engine room" is a bit crowded with both of those items, but they fit fine. The pushbutton on the ESC, if laid on top of the battery, touches the i.d. of the tube. Is there a chance that this could be problematic? I can flip the ESC over and let the button hang down off the end of the battery!

Also, the ESC has 2 sets of motor connectors. One pair are individual, and the other pair terminate in a 2-pronged connector. Which ones get connected to the motor, and can the other pair just be de-soldered so as not to take up any extra real estate within the wtc?

Many thanks for your input, as is always appreciated!

[Sublime]

Great discussion. That is what I like about this forum. All I have to do is read and it answers the questions I have, will have or should'a had!

[trout]

Gary,
Great work there! I like it.
Peace,
Tom

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hey! ... that's a good work-around. Well done, sir.

M

[crazygary]

Hi, M!

I figured out a pretty easy way to avoid the "micro-soldering" regarding removing the mounting ears from the little linear servos. Hopefully, I'll actually be able to attach photos of exactly how I accomplished this!!?? (Film at eleven!!)

I removed only the mounting ears that don't need to conduct power! Fortunately they're both on the same end of the servo.

After determining the depth for the servo tray, I Dremeled out a couple of little pockets, in the sides of the servo box, to allow the remaining ears to recess into them. (See the red marks??) The servos are then acc'd to the servo tray facing in opposite directions, so as to have the linkages as close together as possible.

Seems that this will work out pretty well!!

Thanks, again, for your ongoing assistance and support!!

Grasshopper1, out!!



Holy frijoles!!! Ah dun it!! YEEEEhah!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

And yet again, Dave!!

How necessary is a LiPo safety circuit, and what exactly is its function???

Muchas gracias, Jeffe!! (LOL)

Not vital to have it on board, but if the Lithium-polymer battery voltage drops below a critical voltage, you kill the battery (or reduce its capacity). If you run the thing with a 900mAhr pack and keep your run time under 30-minutes, you're good between charges.

The function of the thing is to kill one of the r/c channels aboard the model submarine -- in this little thing I put the Lipo-Guard in series with the stern plane circuit. That way, when the thing senses low-voltage I loose control of my depth keeping ability, telling me time to come home for a battery swap.

M