Today's work on the little Revell SKIPJACK fittings kit

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

M-

Another "grasshopper" question, if you please.

Is there a rule-of-thumb as to placement of the SD electrical components so as to avoid any possible interference among them?

My inquiring "newbie" mind would like to know!!

Thank you kind sir!

Try to keep the motor and ESC distanced from the receiver. Other than that, cram away.

M

[crazygary]

And yet again, Dave!!

How necessary is a LiPo safety circuit, and what exactly is its function???

Muchas gracias, Jeffe!! (LOL)

[crazygary]

M-

Another "grasshopper" question, if you please.

Is there a rule-of-thumb as to placement of the SD electrical components so as to avoid any possible interference among them?

My inquiring "newbie" mind would like to know!!

Thank you kind sir!

[crazygary]

Oops!! One more time, M!

I would think that the servo box covers should be secured with silicone, so as to allow for removal, if needed?

[crazygary]

Copy that, M!! Thanks a bunch!

So, "micro soldering" you say, eh?? Oh. boy!! I knew there wuz gonna be a "bit of a challenge" somewhere!! Hah!!

Fortunately, I had picked up on one of the "Iso-Tip" soldering pencils a while back for my model railroad work! Great little unit!

O.K.! Off to the drydock, as soon as the first blast of caffeine kicks in!

Have a good one, and thanks again!

Crazy1, out!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Master "D":

After much sanding and fitting on my little sub, I finally got the upper and lower hull halves to line up pretty darn nicely!!
Got primer, and will soon have "real" color!!

I'm starting to figure out the sd assembly, and have a few "assumptions"!? Please interject as needed!!

First, the "flanged servo box" lower cover interferes with the sd's ability to fully seat into the lower hull half. I'm assuming that if I remove the flange, and make it look like the "servo tray", that all shall be right with the world!?

Secondly, the depth at which the "servo tray" is to be anchored should be a "few thousandths" short of the bottom of the cover!? The close, the better for the magnets to be able to do their job efficiently!?

Lastly, it appears that the "ears" on the little linear servos need to be removed to allow placement of two of them, and also be mounted to the tray with a dab of silicone!?? Just made sense to me, but I digress!!!!!

Your 4-1-1 is, as always, much appreciated!

Thank you, M!!

Bevel the longitudinal edges of the lower servo box cover till you get clearance with the hull.

Test fit the servo tray with the servo's made up with their magnets, put a piece of masking tape over the magnet -- this acts as shim to get that little bit of clearance between the top of the magnet and the bottom of the upper servo lid. Test fit the servo tray and upper lid till the lid makes contact with the magnet. Once you have that worked out, CA the servo tray in place.

When you chop off those servo ears, you'll have to bridge the board where you loose continuity -- hello micro-soldering. This will test your metal, pal! I mount the servo, via its micro-processor chip to the servo tray with CA.

Go get 'em, Tiger!

M

[crazygary]

Master "D":

After much sanding and fitting on my little sub, I finally got the upper and lower hull halves to line up pretty darn nicely!!
Got primer, and will soon have "real" color!!

I'm starting to figure out the sd assembly, and have a few "assumptions"!? Please interject as needed!!

First, the "flanged servo box" lower cover interferes with the sd's ability to fully seat into the lower hull half. I'm assuming that if I remove the flange, and make it look like the "servo tray", that all shall be right with the world!?

Secondly, the depth at which the "servo tray" is to be anchored should be a "few thousandths" short of the bottom of the cover!? The close, the better for the magnets to be able to do their job efficiently!?

Lastly, it appears that the "ears" on the little linear servos need to be removed to allow placement of two of them, and also be mounted to the tray with a dab of silicone!?? Just made sense to me, but I digress!!!!!

Your 4-1-1 is, as always, much appreciated!

Thank you, M!!

[crazygary]

Roger that!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Anytime. Keep at it.

M

[crazygary]

Many thanks, once again, M!!

Your help is greatly appreciated!

Happy 2014!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Happy New Year to you and Ellie!!

Am finally, once again, able to get back to my little Skipjack, after 95 feet of post-and-rail fencing!
But, "She-who-must-be-obeyed" is very happy! Hah!! One less project on the ever-increasing length of the "honey-do" list. Life is good!!!

Ennyhoo, with regard to the aft dive planes, it appears that the hole into the planes themselves needs to be in the neighborhood of 1/4" to 5/16" deep???

Hope 2014 is a good one for you!!

Party on!!

About 5/16" for the yoke hole. About 1/8" for the outboard bearing shaft hole.

M

[crazygary]

Happy New Year to you and Ellie!!

Am finally, once again, able to get back to my little Skipjack, after 95 feet of post-and-rail fencing!
But, "She-who-must-be-obeyed" is very happy! Hah!! One less project on the ever-increasing length of the "honey-do" list. Life is good!!!

Ennyhoo, with regard to the aft dive planes, it appears that the hole into the planes themselves needs to be in the neighborhood of 1/4" to 5/16" deep???

Hope 2014 is a good one for you!!

Party on!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ok................

M

[crazygary]

Thanks alot, youse guys!!

Now I'm looking at picking up on the Moebius!! GEEEEZ!!

But, not until my little Revell Skippy has gotten wet!! ( O.K., M??)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was being conservative. Damned tight, I'll tell you that.

M