The British T Class 1:72 scale

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Mike,

I won't beat you up over having to use explosives to get those GRP parts out of the tool ... as you observed, its all part of the learning-curve. The hull parts look good. You're well on your way of having your very own T-class submarine model

You 1/72 guys in the Land-Down-Under taking notes?!... It's gonna be, On The Beach time soon.

I do want to comment on that left-over shot of the RenShape sail, Mike:

You're using that very soft 20-pound stuff. What's wrong with you!? You sell the 40-pound Renshape, use it next time you tackle a master that requires so much careful carving and detailing.

Don't make me come over there!

As you likely have found, as you filed off the excess filler around the 20-pound substrate, the very soft adjacent un-filed RenShape will all too easily abrade away with just the lightest of file over-strikes. Bad Ju-Ju!

Next time, once you have the light-weight RenShape to a form you like, heat it up to around 120-degrees, and while still warm, quickly give it a coat of epoxy laminating resin. This will fill those little cell holes on the surface. As the air within the open surface cells shrinks as it cools, it pulls the resin within those open RenShape cells. Also, the epoxy shell substrate will better resist the occasional light pass of sandpaper and file.

I have spoken, so let it be written (insert 'clap-of-thunder' sound effect here).

David

[Albion]

Being a Brit i would really like a WWII brit boat, and the S class ones are all a bit big for me. i didnt honestly believe anyone would be crazy enough to try a T class in 1/72, but here it is, and slowly creeping towards conclusion. im putting Dibs on HMS Tally ho

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

There you go, Mike. A Customer. I'll hold him down ... you take his wallet!

David

[trout]

Mike,

Next time, once you have the light-weight RenShape to a form you like, heat it up to around 120-degrees, and while still warm, quickly give it a coat of epoxy laminating resin. This will fill those little cell holes on the surface. As the air within the open surface cells shrinks as it cools, it pulls the resin within those open RenShape cells. Also, the epoxy shell substrate will better resist the occasional light pass of sandpaper and file.

David

That is some great information......I will store this for the day I try to build a sub from scratch.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That is some great information......I will store this for the day I try to build a sub from scratch.

Sooner than that you'll want to scratch-build sub-assemblies.

No matter:

You'll want to get the much denser 40-pound RenShape, as it can be sanded down to a state that will accept primer without evidencing a cell-structure underneath. RenShape is a vital element in my shop. Get it from Caswell ...

... or suffer my wrath!

David

[trout]

Sooner than that you'll want to scratch-build sub-assemblies.

David

I can imagine you waving your hand while saying that and by the way, your Jedi mind tricks will not work on me........I need to call Mike and order 40-pound RenShape.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

These are not the droid's you are looking for ...

[Kazzer]

Here are the plugs for the conning tower, made from Renshape

Note the dome piece on top, this is so the tower can be altered to the Cab Style with the three little portholes.




Next job is to prime them with sealer and a good coat of wax.

[greenman407]

Hurry up Mike! Youve got the masses standing in line.

[Kazzer]

Mike,


You're using that very soft 20-pound stuff. What's wrong with you!? You sell the 40-pound Renshape, use it next time you tackle a master that requires so much careful carving and detailing.

Don't make me come over there!



David

Well, actually, we gave up on this stuff a while ago. Not the best seller, and I'm using the cream stuff because we have a half sheet left over. (I haf tu save a shcilling ver I kan!)

Unless you bums know differently and want to buy loads of it???? Eh??? Eh????

[Kazzer]

I have now bolted the two halves of the mold together after laying up the chopped strand on each side. I found this to be much easier to to than trying to get cloth to conform to compound angles. Using the side of the concrete mold, I ran a knife along the edge to trim up the excess. A nice waterline cut!




Next, I laid a thin piece of wire all along the keel and extended it into the body of the boat. I doubt this keel will ever come adrift now. I mixed up more resin and poured it into the keel area, then poured lead shot into it. Some stuck to the side of the keel and I swilled it all down using a paint brush dipped in lacquer thinner.



Finally, I laid a strip of fiberglass ribbon over the keel area to glue both sides together. I wetted it out with lacquer thinner to get resin from the keel to flow into the ribbon.





While I was doing the T Class, I laid up one side of an M1. After a gel coat and some 2oz cloth, I laid down a layer of chopped strand.

[Scott T]

What does the wire in the keel do? Is it for wear purpose.
How about a piece of weed trimmer line for this purpose.
It might not corrode like wire and is very tuff.

And since I am putting my nose where it doesn't belong...
When you put that chopped fiberglass in there could you lay a piece
of wax paper in there and use a roller to press the fibers down? Or
might that press thin spots into the finished product?

I am enjoying watching you make these hulls Mr. C.

Scott T

[Kazzer]

What does the wire in the keel do? Is it for wear purpose.
How about a piece of weed trimmer line for this purpose.
It might not corrode like wire and is very tuff.

And since I am putting my nose where it doesn't belong...
When you put that chopped fiberglass in there could you lay a piece
of wax paper in there and use a roller to press the fibers down? Or
might that press thin spots into the finished product?

I am enjoying watching you make these hulls Mr. C.

Scott T

I used titanium wire. It's a reinforcing bar, as found in concrete. I usually use a bit of scrap brass push-rod, or whatever is lying around. It won't corrode, being encapsulated in epoxy.

I've found the best way to get the fibers to lay flat is to dip an acid paint brush in lacquer thinner, and wet out the chopped strand slightly. It helps the epoxy underneath soak into the chopped strand. I found this a very easy process - at last. The matt also conformed easier to sharp angles.

[Subculture]

I find if you use a small washer roller, that really helps the resin and matt consolidate. I only use a brush to apply resin- dabbed on. Works everytime for me.

[SSBN659]

I don't know what you mean by small washer roller but it sounds interesting. Do you have a picture?

"Will" Rogers
SSBN659