The British T Class 1:72 scale

[Kazzer]

Yep

It's Alan Poole's original. 1:12 (I think) and approx 48" long.
Control surfaces already molded, All I have to do is the actual hull sections.

[Slats]

The T is stalled for a short while. I want to get my vacu-former running next week, and then run off the X Craft hull. After that, it's the T!

Your doing an X craft Vacu formed hull? I'm listening....details please? Size and control surfaces corrected?
J

[Kazzer]

Bump. How is it going? I've been looking for a 1/72 T-class kit.

The T is stalled for a short while. I want to get my vacu-former running next week, and then run off the X Craft hull. After that, it's the T!

[OldNoob]

Bump. How is it going? I've been looking for a 1/72 T-class kit.

[SSBN659]

OK, now I get the picture (pun intended). I'll give it a try. Many thanks.

[Subculture]

This is my washer roller. They're called washer rollers because you can make them by stacking up washers in a row, large size, small size, large size.... etc. The grooves in the roller allow the resin to squish through, so you can get a bit of pressure onto the glass, and ensure it's fully consolidated with the resin and chase out any air bubbles.

I found the ones available commercially were too wide for smaller moulds, so I made my own. The handle is an old bicycle spoke bent to incorporate the roller. The roller itself was turned up out of a small scrap piece of steel, which is better than using washers. The threaded end of the spoke has a small nut on which keeps the roller in place. Once I'm done laminating, I undo the nut, and dump the roller in a jam jar with some acetone in to ensure it's squeaky clean for the next job.



Commercial type of roller- too wide to get in tight radius' etc. Fine for larger laminates.

[SSBN659]

I don't know what you mean by small washer roller but it sounds interesting. Do you have a picture?

"Will" Rogers
SSBN659

[Subculture]

I find if you use a small washer roller, that really helps the resin and matt consolidate. I only use a brush to apply resin- dabbed on. Works everytime for me.

[Kazzer]

What does the wire in the keel do? Is it for wear purpose.
How about a piece of weed trimmer line for this purpose.
It might not corrode like wire and is very tuff.

And since I am putting my nose where it doesn't belong...
When you put that chopped fiberglass in there could you lay a piece
of wax paper in there and use a roller to press the fibers down? Or
might that press thin spots into the finished product?

I am enjoying watching you make these hulls Mr. C.

Scott T

I used titanium wire. It's a reinforcing bar, as found in concrete. I usually use a bit of scrap brass push-rod, or whatever is lying around. It won't corrode, being encapsulated in epoxy.

I've found the best way to get the fibers to lay flat is to dip an acid paint brush in lacquer thinner, and wet out the chopped strand slightly. It helps the epoxy underneath soak into the chopped strand. I found this a very easy process - at last. The matt also conformed easier to sharp angles.

[Scott T]

What does the wire in the keel do? Is it for wear purpose.
How about a piece of weed trimmer line for this purpose.
It might not corrode like wire and is very tuff.

And since I am putting my nose where it doesn't belong...
When you put that chopped fiberglass in there could you lay a piece
of wax paper in there and use a roller to press the fibers down? Or
might that press thin spots into the finished product?

I am enjoying watching you make these hulls Mr. C.

Scott T

[Kazzer]

I have now bolted the two halves of the mold together after laying up the chopped strand on each side. I found this to be much easier to to than trying to get cloth to conform to compound angles. Using the side of the concrete mold, I ran a knife along the edge to trim up the excess. A nice waterline cut!




Next, I laid a thin piece of wire all along the keel and extended it into the body of the boat. I doubt this keel will ever come adrift now. I mixed up more resin and poured it into the keel area, then poured lead shot into it. Some stuck to the side of the keel and I swilled it all down using a paint brush dipped in lacquer thinner.



Finally, I laid a strip of fiberglass ribbon over the keel area to glue both sides together. I wetted it out with lacquer thinner to get resin from the keel to flow into the ribbon.





While I was doing the T Class, I laid up one side of an M1. After a gel coat and some 2oz cloth, I laid down a layer of chopped strand.

[Kazzer]

Mike,


You're using that very soft 20-pound stuff. What's wrong with you!? You sell the 40-pound Renshape, use it next time you tackle a master that requires so much careful carving and detailing.

Don't make me come over there!



David

Well, actually, we gave up on this stuff a while ago. Not the best seller, and I'm using the cream stuff because we have a half sheet left over. (I haf tu save a shcilling ver I kan!)

Unless you bums know differently and want to buy loads of it???? Eh??? Eh????

[greenman407]

Hurry up Mike! Youve got the masses standing in line.

[Kazzer]

Here are the plugs for the conning tower, made from Renshape

Note the dome piece on top, this is so the tower can be altered to the Cab Style with the three little portholes.




Next job is to prime them with sealer and a good coat of wax.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

These are not the droid's you are looking for ...