Akula 1/144 Scratch built

[bwi 971]

I love your work Bart.

Thks

I think you should remeasure again, but without the support cradle. It's made of wood which is bouyant. Your sub may actually be heavier than your initial reading.

you are right if I wanted to know the subs total weight. But I only wanted to know the weight of the hull above the water line.

The cradle resulted indeed in a buoyancy I even had to add weight to keep everything submerged. But that doesn’t matter. You can add 1ton if you want, the weight will be there at both measurements the difference in weight will be the same 8 ounces.

But it is very important to ensure yourself that the added weight is submerged in both occasions else it will result in error. The only parts you want above the waterline are those of the sub nothing else.

Grtz,
Bart

[redboat219]

I think you should remeasure again, but without the support cradle. It's made of wood which is bouyant. Your sub may actually be heavier than your initial reading.

[HardRock]

I love your work Bart.

[bwi 971]

As you will have noticed....not much building going on.....work is demanding @ the moment....time left is for the family.

My intention however was to get the sub swimming next year April. Finishing the hulls, I will manage. But R&D the WTC, can't see it happening.

The only solution regarding the WTC was to put the monkey on someone else shoulder in order to get her finished.
If I have to outsource the WTC I want the best I can get.

So I have contacted David about it, he advised me to go for the 2.5” SD.

The lift capacity of the SD is 14 ounces, when I constructed my hulls I weighted the upper half, 17 ounces.
But what is the weight of the hull above the waterline of the model?

I don’t know how you guys calculate it but I went for Mr Archimedes (after chewing on it for a few hours after A very short night).

I temporary installed all the parts of the sub that are above the waterline, rudder, pod,…
I made a jig to support a scale. Placed the jig above the bathtub, I hung the sub in the cradle it’s weight resting on the scale




Filled the bathtub with water until it reached the waterline level of the sub, turned on the scale and weighted the sub, the reading on the scale was 22.93 ounces.
Make sure that everything is submerged that is supposed to be submerged especially the cradle.




Then I filled the tub until the sub was completely submerged, the reading on the scale was 14.64 ounces.




The difference between the two is in my opinion the weight of the hull above the waterline 8,31 ounces.
The lifting capacity of the SD is more than enough to raise the sub until the desired waterline. I have 5.69 ounces spare above the water line for bits and pieces.

Yes you told me it will be sufficient David.....but I wanted to figure out how to measure it.

Thks for your time...I will place the order over the weekend.

Grtz,
Bart

[bwi 971]

Don’t bother with the picture (if someone did anyway) I’m little bit disappointed on this.

Vepr157 on another forum helped me out.

I didn’t do my homework well at all…..seems there are a few variations (about as many as there are akula’s).I
I spent my whole weekend to sort out all the akula pic’s I got into 7 distinguished groups ((and even to their designated number).

1. AKULA I---FLIGHT I
2. AKULA I---FLIGHT II
3. AKULA I---IMPROVED--- FLIGHT I
4. AKULA I---IMPROVED---FLIGHT II
5. AKULA I---IMPROVED---FLIGHT III
6. AKULA II
7. AKULA II---IMPROVED (sometimes called the AKULA III)

Some Akula’s in a specific group variate from other members in same group.

I did my homework all over and I can Cleary state I WAS VERY LUCKY I DIDN’T STARTED SCRIBING YET it would have been a mess, it would have resulted in a mixture off all groups.

I decided to go and make a AKULA I---FLIGHT I sub more specific the K-480 “AK BARS” this is one hell of a unique mother****er.

The only thing I have to redo is the inlet scoops. The “fin”types were used from the AKULA I---FLIGHT II onwards. I need to make typhoon type scoops for theK-480.

And all this because one person had decided to help me out (and kicked my butt because I didn’t do my homework properly).

Grts
Bart

[bwi 971]

Help needed on the underwater SOKS positions

I need a clear picture of the SOKS on PS

The position of the SOKS on SB is clear (million pictures available)
The position of the SOKS on PS is vague, it seems it’s not the same as on SB I only found one blur picture of them.

Thks & grtz,
Bart


SB position


PS position (difficult to see how they are placed due to the camera angle)

[bwi 971]

PART II

SIERRA II (various)

[bwi 971]

Just wanted to share some information on the SOKS system.

Maybe this info helps when you intend to built a VICTOR or SIERRA.

Did some searching on the WWW......seems many variations existed during the development of the SOKS system....VICTOR I, SIERRA I and SIERRA II.

Grtz,
Bart

PART I (max 10 pictures in 1 post)

VICTOR I (k 147)




VICTOR I (k 323)







SIERRA I (K276)

[bwi 971]

As I'm up and running again I tackled the SOKS.



The one with the bulb is my first target
The minimum diameter of the drill chuck of my lathe is 1,5mm.
A 1,5mm brass rod was turned down to 1mm (0.039").
A 0.5mm (0.019") hole was drilled.
With a needle file the radius was accomplished.
One done 3 to go

[bwi 971]

Made the two remaining......cut & bent......push into molding clay.......apply CA

Grtz,
Bart

[bwi 971]

Come on, you know you want that light in there!
Excellent detail Bart. It is those small add-ons that really make a model pop.

A short length of small diameter fiber-optic thread to an internal bulb and you're good to go. Go on .... you know you want to do it! Go ahead. I dare you!

M

Had a night sleep over it.......First crawl then walk son......will do so Pa.

T'his is my first sub and scratch built project gents I will keep all the fancy stuff for my next project.

Grtz,
Bart

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Well then ... mission accomplished!

M

[bwi 971]

And you can start laughing....... I do not believe I'm actually doing some homework on the subject.... by the way did I mention that I hate you guys?








The pictures came from this site http://note.chiebukuro.yahoo.co.jp/detail/n245871
Grtz
Bart

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

A short length of small diameter fiber-optic thread to an internal bulb and you're good to go. Go on .... you know you want to do it! Go ahead. I dare you!

M

[trout]

Come on, you know you want that light in there!
Excellent detail Bart. It is those small add-ons that really make a model pop.