Trumpeter 1/144 Gato build

[alad61]

I don't know much about this kit, but could the front planes be rigged to the rear plane via a push rod or rods under the SD to a crank on a shaft connecting the forward planes? Similar to the Moebius Seaview. It would mean they are always down at dive position though. The two retract arms would need to be fixed permenantly to the sub walls and shaped to a wedge where they sit in the planes so the planes can still move around the axis...

[crazygary]

Alec-
Being pretty new to model subs, and the lack of experience required, I'm afraid I can't, personally, answer your question.
That would be better left to Mr. Merriman! Sorry!

M-
I may well be able to cut a cavity into the rudder skeg to operate the dive planes. I'll certainly take that into
consideration! Would make her a little "cleaner" looking. To do something similar for the rudder is another story!
The skeg has no "hollow" whatsoever, and is a little less than 1/8" thick!

I was considering a "bellcrank" within the internal area where the rudder shaft goes through the hull, but the amount
of room between the shaft and inner wall is only about 3/16". Extremely tight quarters way back there! Might be doable,
but may also limit the amount of swing I can get with the rudder. May look into the possibility after researching the
"space vs. mechanical" requirements!

Since I'm waiting for magnets to be used with the linkages, I'll focus on the struts and fairleads drilling, etc., today!
Back later with my results!

crazygary, out!

[crazygary]

O.K.!!

Belay the "todays adventure" from my last post!

I'm way too intrigued by the prospect of internal operators for my dive planes and rudder!!
This will be todays challenge!! (******!! I had to become a machinist!!)

Film and commentary when I emerge from the "dungeon"!! Hah!!


"Full speed ahead, and damn the torpedos"!! Arrgh!!

crazygary, out!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

This is a frig'n small model submarine. Think small, ******!

Construct the rudder and stern plane operating shafts, bell cranks, and pushrods from .030" brass wire, and it will all fit. Grind away internal plastic to make swing-room for the rudder bell-crank.

Study the pushrods, operating shafts and yokes on that little SKIPJACK of yours and you'll see how to do it. Note how I melt the end of a .030" brass wire into a globe, then hammer it to a flat, and punch a .032" hole to pass the pushrod Z-bend. No need for magnets back there, pal. Once you're done work-harden the end of the brass so it won't bend on you.

Do not make the bow planes operational. Do not link the bow planes to the stern planes. This ain't the frig'n SEAVIEW!

M

[crazygary]

You pretty much hit upon the methods I was looking to go with!!

Dive plane shaft is already 1/16", for rigidity within the thin skeg, but was
gonna drill a 1/32" hole through it, at mid point, and anchor some 1/32" brass wire to it!

Will carefully "hog out" material so that things will have "room to breathe"!!

As for the rudder, I was, indeed, going to use your Skippy methods!! Hard to
improve upon in tight areas!! Good one, M!!

Was looking to use magnets to secure pushrod ends together! (Huh?)

Being as the servo room will be relatively far from what needs to be controlled, I thought
it would be a good idea to make them 2-piece pushrods. Since the SD has to be "finish assembled"
once inside the hull, better to be able to get the pushrods out of the way to avoid damage!!

If I don't do that, sure as h*ll I'll frig something up and have to remake it!!

CG

[crazygary]

O.K., Subnuts!! The "rook" is back with yet another undertaking!
Not quite sure if I'm ready to " boldly go where no crazy person has gone before", but I'm ready to
give it my best shot!!

Todays exciting episode, at the "inspirational motivation" of The Master, Grasshopper has managed to arrange for my little Gatos'
aft control surfaces to be operated from within the hull!!

First thing to be done was to recess (aka-"hog out") some of the internal surfaces of the keel skeg, as well as the area just aft
of the rearmost hollow part of the hull.

The "red" areas were recessed about .020" or so, on either hull half, so as to allow a 1/32" diameter pin to swivel within, thereby
letting the aft dive planes do their job! The "black" areas were recessed to allow for attachment of the rudder pushrod to the shaft and it's subsequent ability to
move the rudder from side to side!!


I drilled a 1/32" hole through the center of the dive plane shaft and inserted a length of 1/32" diameter brass wire. This will serve as the
operating fulcrum for the dive planes. Modification to the end, and pushrod attachment to follow later on.

I also put a u-bend in the rudder shaft for the purpose of pushrod attachment. More to follow regarding that later on, also!



Should work pretty well!


Off the modify the kits' struts and fairleads to accept 1/16" diameter prop shafts!

crazygary, out!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Well done, sir! Perfect. Very good pictorial presentation of the work. Very, very instructive. Way to go!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Well done, sir! Perfect. Very good pictorial presentation of the work. Very, very instructive. Way to go!

M

[Sublime]

That didn't take you too long to figure out. What you have is very clean and simple. I would like to follow your method of moving the dive planes, but instead of the 1/32 rod, I will solder a piece of brass sheet stock as a control horn. I really don't have the plastic to hog out on that Revell Type XXI model. I'm still stuck on what to do with the rudder, but you guys are very inspirational, so I will think of something.

[crazygary]

Thank you kind Sir!!

O.K., crawl, walk......am I almost runnin' yet??? Hah!!

Grasshopper very much appreciates hearing such words from "The Man"!!

Getting ready to drill out those "really small" fairleads!! Holy poop on a stick!! Pray fer me!!

Adios brain cells, but.....it's a lot of fun and I'm really looking forward
to her maiden voyage!

Whassup with this font?? I didn't intentionally change it?????? KGB???
Oops! Sorry! There is no KGB!! LOL

[crazygary]

Hiya, Sublime!!

All of the posts on this thread are in dealing with converting a specific model.
That being the Trumpeter 1/144 scale Gato.
So, everything I post is strictly for that particular sub!!
Alot of my posts probably won't be of any help to you, especially if your sub is bigger than 1/144!!

Best of luck with your build!! Post some photos when you can!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That didn't take you too long to figure out. What you have is very clean and simple. I would like to follow your method of moving the dive planes, but instead of the 1/32 rod, I will solder a piece of brass sheet stock as a control horn. I really don't have the plastic to hog out on that Revell Type XXI model. I'm still stuck on what to do with the rudder, but you guys are very inspirational, so I will think of something.

rack-and-pinion.

M

[redboat219]

..........

[Sublime]

rack-and-pinion.

M

Wow! 1/144 scale rack and pinion is too far above my skill set Sir.

[Sublime]

Hiya, Sublime!!

All of the posts on this thread are in dealing with converting a specific model.
That being the Trumpeter 1/144 scale Gato.
So, everything I post is strictly for that particular sub!!
Alot of my posts probably won't be of any help to you, especially if your sub is bigger than 1/144!!

Best of luck with your build!! Post some photos when you can!!

I understand you are working the 1/144 GATO. But, I'm guessing 1/144 scale has many similar problems, regardless of the type of sub. I'm doing a Revell Type XXI in 1/144 scale and I see that many of your GATO issues are my issues. I will start my own build thread, but so far your thread has been an answer to my prayers. I'm waiting for my SD from M. When it gets here I hope to install it with as little fitting and/or tuning. I think 1/144th scale has its own unique set of problems.