Was going to run the Skipjack, but needed to verify my seal, just on the off chance it didn't work. Well it didn't work. Creating a suction in the sub-driver, I could see water coming in the pushrod seal. Crude, I will replace it again...
Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build
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Right you are, Manfred. In fact, Tom had sent me some samples of what he's worked up in the way of magnetically latched plumbing connectors, as well as a more robust version of our magnetic linkage connectors. Feast your eyes on his work here:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23227[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23228[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23229[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23230[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23231[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23232[/ATTACH]
Was looking at your Air connectors and wondering what part no the magnet's are? Also any pic's of how you constructed the connectors?
Cheers BruceComment
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If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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I needed to make a magnetic connector for the Skipjack.
The parts needed are:
Two cylinder magnets
Two thin slices of 5/32" tubing
Two 1/8" tubing cut slightly longer than the cylinder magnets
one 3/32" brass rod just a small section
Two 3/32" brass tube lengths
This is designed to fit on a 1/16" pushrod.
The 5/32" sliver slips on the end of each 1/8" tubing and gets soldered on.
Cut a length of 3/32" tube and solder so that it is in half way in the 1/8" piece, opposite of where the sliver is soldered. Do this to both 1/8" tubes.
One 1/8" tube will have the rod inserted in the same side as the sliver and is soldered in.
Put it in a lathe or hand piece like a dremel, even a drill press could probably be used. Anyway, using files thin the 1/8" tube until the magnet slips on. Also thin out the sliver. The thinner you make it the closer the magnets will be and stronger the hold. The purpose of the sliver is a stop for the magnet.
CA or epoxy the magnets in.Last edited by trout; 04-10-2014, 01:57 AM.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Went to Southern California to a Fun Run held at the Yorba Regional Park in Anaheim. What a gorgeous day! I had brought along 3 subs. The Skipjack, Gato and Type XXIII.
So let me tell you about the adventures with the Skipjack. Silly me for not getting it and running it in the water beforehand, but certain things came up and I could not. I briefly got the sub in the tub, but that did not tell me much. Anyways, I had made modifications to the servo pushrods and throw of the leveler, added magnetic connectors. This plus adding a different TX module on the WFly radio all combined to on interesting run. At one point the sub did a steep dive and disappeared. I stopped the engines and pushed it over to blow. Then waited and waited (it might have been just seconds, but it seemed like an eternity). Further out in the pond and heading the opposite direction of what the initial dive was, popped up the Skipjack. Thank you David for designing an EXCELLENT Sub-Driver. Once on the surface I brought the sub in and went to change my shorts.
I will open her up and give an update at a later time.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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went to order some of the cylinder magnets to make some air connectors.....turns out the company won't ship direct to Oz because our stupid Govt has brought in some badly worded regulation that the company doesn't wish to test...yet I could get similar (but not quite same size) from Evil Bay out of China no problems....
What is the world coming too....Hey Dave make some magnetic air connectors then we can buy em from you guys!!
Cheers BruceComment
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