Skipjack 1/72
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John, all my SDs have a single fat oring. Have you tried using silicone grease? I wipe the whole oring seating surface of the endcap down with silicone grease and leaks have gone to zero and its easier to remove and install. You can also use Dielectric grease. Seams to be the same stuff.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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here below is going back a few years - note the brick sized ESC.
This Subdriver went into HMAS Rankin - Collins class Sub.
You can see the neat little bends in the push rods in this photo.
This Subdriver featured David's SD hardware and my own conduit through the ballast tank to the forward compartment, a feature that is now standard on all subdrivers that was not on the 3.5" at the time.
Also note the 2 cradles I use to support the motor tray in the foreground and the body of the Subdriver in the background. For assembly and maintenance and care of your Subdrivers - these little support stands make life easier.
JJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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John, all my SDs have a single fat oring. Have you tried using silicone grease? I wipe the whole oring seating surface of the endcap down with silicone grease and leaks have gone to zero and its easier to remove and install. You can also use Dielectric grease. Seams to be the same stuff.
JJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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Cheers,
Alec.
Reality is but a dream...
But to dream is a reality
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Pleasure
here below is going back a few years - note the brick sized ESC.
This Subdriver went into HMAS Rankin - Collins class Sub.
You can see the neat little bends in the push rods in this photo.
This Subdriver featured David's SD hardware and my own conduit through the ballast tank to the forward compartment, a feature that is now standard on all subdrivers that was not on the 3.5" at the time.
Also note the 2 cradles I use to support the motor tray in the foreground and the body of the Subdriver in the background. For assembly and maintenance and care of your Subdrivers - these little support stands make life easier.
J
J,
That is beautiful! I see what you mean about the bend, you keep it as close to the arm on the servo (in this case a little further down because of the other servo). The cradle idea is fantastic, I am going to try build a couple.
This is very helpful, thank you!
TIf you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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always happy to help and share ideas.
Cheers
JJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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Good looking work, John. Nice, practical modifications on display there. You're a practical sort of guy. Love those small work stands. Something I should do.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Folks when David finally gets to my e-mail he'll find an order sitting there for 2 more Subdrivers.
There are few short cuts in the hobby, but I buy Subdrivers for all my sub projects. Yep they do cost bucks - but dollar for dollar the prefabrication that goes in is CHEAP compared to other modules on the market. I initially hit upon buying from David's product as I wanted a product that simply worked as intended, didn't leak and lasted. The Subdrivers tick all three boxes. Cost Effective -no brainier.
Cheers
JJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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I just realized something. I dont want all those masts sticking up on my Scamp. All I want is the scope. I was hoping to see a sail top without all those depressions where the masts go. Ill need to fill them in with something. Maybe I can take the top to each mast and slice it 1/16' thick or so and then plug the hole with that. That way it will have a nice line around it and will actually look like there is a telescoping mast underneath. Any thoughts on that?Last edited by greenman407; 06-06-2013, 03:05 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Looks like some of the depressions have a door scribed in around them. Perhaps there is supposed to be a door around all of them.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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I just realized something. I dont want all those masts sticking up on my Scamp. All I want is the scope. I was hoping to see a sail top without all those depressions where the masts go. Ill need to fill them in with something. Maybe I can take the top to each mast and slice it 1/16' thick or so and then plug the hole with that. That way it will have a nice line around it and will actually look like there is a telescoping mast underneath. Any thoughts on that?[ATTACH=CONFIG]20557[/ATTACH]
JJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
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David,
can you please tell us the brand of that Red putty is.
I take it is safe to use on both ABS plastics and GRP?
Thanks
JohnJohn Slater
Sydney Australia
You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.
sigpicComment
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