revell VIIc

[redboat219]

Check out this video on YouTube. It's Manfred's (MFR) 1/32 Type VII with working torpedoes/launcher.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EF6COlAg8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[satlite440]

like the ideas..the biggest problem i'm dealing with is that thee spring pressure is overcomming the magnets pull..but i do have some small zipties so i will give it a go and rtv one in and roadtest that idea...seems like it should work thanks for the idea scott.

[Scott T]

Satlite,
Here are a few ideas for a spring to hold doors shut.
Take a zip tie (tie wrap) and crease it to a v shape and glue into the bow and let each
arm press against the doors. They should flex to open the doors; but give enough pressure
to hold the doors closed. I am using milk carton plastic which is also springy.


Another spring source might be the silicone piece used to open a huggies wipe container.
It springs open the door you see in the picture below.



Scott T

[satlite440]

ok i will try to see if i can do better. so the spring to hold doors shut while underway is still a problem..the springs i have worked with so far have all been to stiff and overcome the magnets pull on the door at the 1/2 way point of travel..going to experement with the tire valve core springs a little more before giveing up on the idea.so i fabbed up a suport for the tailend of the control rod.the plan is to rtv the support in place when the hulls are joined.this is just to get the idea and for trimming weight when i get the weight/lenght of the launcher from dave(he who shall not be named). i just need the overall lenght and weight of 1 launcher an i will figure it out from there..so far i am happy with my mock-up and the full door open. now comes the next level tubes 3&4 so far the idea is to 1 make a fab template for 2 working lower torpedo tubes and 2 fake tubes up top. the upper doors rod will mirror the lower and be hooked together with plastic gears so the 2 will open left or right bank doors together via a servo set up but i am at a loss to turn the rotational movment into the push/pull throw of the servos in the s/d for the time being.but i fell like i can at lest move on to the upper doors now..



also on the new subdriver.com i don't see the mtronics micro failsafe SKU: MFSWP anywhere.. and i will be getting my lpb/lipo gard and stuff.. i do need that right? thanks guys for all the advise and help...shane

[Kazzer]

Phew! This is hard to read.

[satlite440]

getting closer. reworked the stabord door. works now.. so i noticed that with the sleeve in the rear i'm off center so i'm going to fix that in the next few days and sit down with the springs i do have and try some out.. dave i could use an over all lenght of the launchers as the rods will have to go in the middle centerline.while i only see the $ for 2 ft lower and 1 stern tube i want to prep for 4 and i'm trying to figure out what kind of room i will have inbetween 4 tubes useing the blanks i do have but i know the mecanical/pumatics have the stop bolt ball and i.m not sure if i will have the room on the lower tubes to cant them outward like you did on the gato and still fit straight in the hull..might have to go vertical but once i know the over all lenght and the overall hight at the highest part of the stop bolt ball tube and rear spring rod support i can rough fab 2 tubes and play with spaceing to see what i have left for linking the upper & lower door rods together via gears or something..but that depends on how long i need to make the pivot bar lenght to go past the end of the launchers,,, then have to guess about how much room i have between the launchers and the subdriver aproxamatly..wish i didn't have to use the 1/2 hull method if anyone want to try something like this .to do it over or next one i will assemble the tube bulkhead and fit the piviot bar/magnets then into 1 side..would have been easyer.. still open to any ideas/improvements


thanks shane

[satlite440]

so i hope this works never posted a vidio before...lower door control rod support is drying now. had to take the starbord side doos out and do more sanding as the starbord lower door still had some drag..the gm engine sealant has good tension to spring the door back. but i would like to find a spring that won't overpower the magnet and still keep the doors shut under way still the concept's good just need more refineing before hull assemble.. if anyone has any idea's throw them on the table.. im game...(and dave like you i'm just standing on the shoulders of smarter guys than me.. i credit you for the magnet idea).i hit upon it while looking at the deck magnets in my fittings kit.. {btw what size are they as i need 2 more they epoxy quite well.don't silver soder them.it won't be a magnet any more learned this the hard way} after the t2 fail the cable system was to complex and wouldn't open the doors all the way and was thinking F.M.L. there has to be an easyer way and i saw you deck magnets and my brass tube and bingo a concept was born and i didn't want to be some blowhard .. so i had to roadtest a few concepts before showing a poorly exicuted fail... in short still looking for a spring readly available out of a household/office .. got an idea for a ballpiont pen spring just 2 hurldles for that to work. gonna try tomarow night..all input welcome


ok i have a 37.00 mb movie file that won't load ..not that tec savy if i sent it to someone could they load it? thanks shane

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

crystals ordered last night.. no you don't have to be nice i'm ex army so i can take it bro...however i will toss it on the table as when i reach roadblocks in something im fabbing i find more brains are better as the "view from outside the burning house is much differant.....


thanks dave..

Very well. You're on!

David

[Scott T]

I think they need to change the old saying smoke and mirrors too smoke-mirrors and magnets.
Very cool way of activating the doors.

Scott T

[satlite440]

crystals ordered last night.. no you don't have to be nice i'm ex army so i can take it bro...however i will toss it on the table as when i reach roadblocks in something im fabbing i find more brains are better as the "view from outside the burning house is much differant.....


thanks dave..

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Holy-****! Just when I was taking you as a beginner babe-in-the-woods and general-purpose pain-in-the-ass (all the questions), you come up with those shots of your 1/72 practical Type-7 shutter doors.


Nice!


I bow in your direction, sir. Using the magnet to grab and pull the shutter doors inboard is very good stuff.

****! Does this mean I have to start being nice to you too?

You earlier asked about the launcher as applied to this project -- I'll put together some pictures and thoughts for you. Great stuff there, Shane. You took me back to school ... no small feat!

Get that GWS crystal!

David

[satlite440]

ordered.the block diagram is awsome clears a few things up...so i.m acumulating the things i need slowly i built this for this..got another few things lined up for the next order yea..so here is where i think a few heads are better than 1.. daves magnifcent torpedo system in my humble opinion deserves working doors.. this is plan t3.. t1&t2 were fails..so far i have test fitted out the concept i have a few small springs to go in the forward end to spring the doors closed..(im not shure if they will be strong enought to hold the doors shut while underway but i thinks it's worth the trade off) going to rubber band the hull and roadtest this insane concept.if it fails i can always glue the doors open so i gotta try.once the bottom dorrs open i will figure out the top doors pivot bar. then comes the figueing out the sync to get the top&bottom to open 1 sides tube doors together.... thanks again to all

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The Wfly mini crystal you got with the Lepton-6 was a packing error from Caswell -- the Lepton-6 is not sold with a crystal, the customer has to buy that separately. Also, the Wfly mini-crystal supplied will not work on the Lepton-6 receiver because it is dual-conversion, and the Lepton-6 is single-conversion.

Yes! order that! the number I gave you, damit! Be gone, damned Spot!

And ... yes ... the mini receiver goes into the receiver. Argh! Don't make me come over there!!!!!

David

[satlite440]

thank you for all the replys.. let me see if i got this straight the ch70 christle can not be used for the sombra labs sl6 .because its dual conversion....

also the drx69 that came with the sombra labs sl6 receiver also can not be used cuz it too is dual conversion....


so i need to order this

GWX1/R75590

FM-RX CH-70 CRYSTAL: 10PPM/75.590MHZ FOR PICO & NARO/UM-1/FP & JR

also is the last pic i have some confusion does the chrystal go in the receiver???? and if so does it go here? the holes look smaller than the pins...


many thanks.. shane

[Avera]

Hi Shane,

I originally got the Lepton 6 channel RX and that created problems with the crystal. Had to buy the 8 channel version with the synthesized module. Works much better.

As for the batteries and parallel charging of lipos, you will need a balancing charger, a balance board (only for 2S and above batteries) and a multi-power lead to charges lipos in parallel. I do it all the time, but you also need to watch out for the sequence of hooking the power and balance leads, the applied voltage and charging amps. Hook the balance leads first then the power leads otherwise the balance will quickly overheat and cause a fire. The same if you use too much amperage or the wrong voltage I came close once where the leads melted luckily I was there watching the charging and caught it in time. Lipos are inherently more dangerous there other types of batteries and there are videos showing how easily they can burst into flames.

Andrew