revell VIIc

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

1. You got it backwards, you're not going to use the Wfly receiver. Also, the crystal in the Wfly receiver is not compatable with the Lepton-6 receiver. The Lepton-6 requires a single-convers, FM, PPM, UM-1 sized crystal, available from a GWS distributor. See my post, the sixth one down on this page: http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...hlight=crystal Part Number: GWX1/R75570

2. Alec put you straight on that point about servo lead wire color-codes

3. This block diagram should help you understand where the battery connects to the other devices:

[alad61]

yea i got my subdriver and most of the electronics in the same week.... the wfly 6/sl6 receiver/micro viper 10/angle driver/batts&charger

dave i have a couple questions for you or anyone else who could help an old school surface driver with vintage electrinics know how catch up to speed..i see the sl6 needs the shadow programer


#1 i am new to this level of radio/receiver..(all my other stuff is car&surface boat stuff i got/made batts for receivers mostly all have battery packs..vintage electronics.)so looking at the lepton 6 the crystle that comes with it goes in the new wfly radio i ordered correct? the wfly receiver that came with the radio and the chrystle that came with the radio go off to the side...correct?



#2 i see the colors are differant than i am used to but if i figure right the tan wire is signal the red is batt+ and the brown is batt -?neg...correct?

#3 the batt connecter that has the 2 wire is the one that needs to be paralel series retaining the T connecter to connect to the battery room input feed? correct? and as a side note do you know if the batts are charged when you get them? and what is the aproxamate time for paralel batts to charge with the caswell charger..(also this will be my 1st lipo batt sys.. have heard a lot about chargeing outside of the house and fire retardent bags to charge in for lipo batterys...)are they safe to charge in the house?


the 2nd order after this side work is done will be the shadow programer/small snort/brass couplers/props/lipogard.. and other things..

i do do as much research as i can before asking.. thanks to all...

shane

G'day satalite440.

Been watching your thread for a bit now and thought I'd chime in. I can't help with the rx & tx units except to say I avoided crystals and went with synthesized modules. As for the colours on your servo, adf, lipo guard leads in simple terms red always = + brown/black = - and yellow/beige or white is the servo lead Not sure what you mean by the battery leads but I would suggest leaving each battery with its own lead and grab a parallel connecter eg... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Deans-Ser...item45fb1504a0

As for charging parallel lipos if you want them to balance properly then charge each pack individually. Experience talks here... Personally I prefer NMiH but as I said that's a personal thing. Look forward to seeing more on your project.

[satlite440]

yea i got my subdriver and most of the electronics in the same week.... the wfly 6/sl6 receiver/micro viper 10/angle driver/batts&charger

dave i have a couple questions for you or anyone else who could help an old school surface driver with vintage electrinics know how catch up to speed..i see the sl6 needs the shadow programer


#1 i am new to this level of radio/receiver..(all my other stuff is car&surface boat stuff i got/made batts for receivers mostly all have battery packs..vintage electronics.)so looking at the lepton 6 the crystle that comes with it goes in the new wfly radio i ordered correct? the wfly receiver that came with the radio and the chrystle that came with the radio go off to the side...correct?



#2 i see the colors are differant than i am used to but if i figure right the tan wire is signal the red is batt+ and the brown is batt -?neg...correct?

#3 the batt connecter that has the 2 wire is the one that needs to be paralel series retaining the T connecter to connect to the battery room input feed? correct? and as a side note do you know if the batts are charged when you get them? and what is the aproxamate time for paralel batts to charge with the caswell charger..(also this will be my 1st lipo batt sys.. have heard a lot about chargeing outside of the house and fire retardent bags to charge in for lipo batterys...)are they safe to charge in the house?





the 2nd order after this side work is done will be the shadow programer/small snort/brass couplers/props/lipogard.. and other things..

i do do as much research as i can before asking.. thanks to all...

shane

[satlite440]

tbelt finnished and ordered my wtc yea!!!!!!!!won't have time for hull as i'm tradeing labor to build a 36 ft arbor for the neighbor in exchange for sub electronics yea!!gonna be 80+ tomarrow boo..

[satlite440]

aye aye sir. and can i get oatmeal raisin? gonna try to get to it after the timming belt&waterpump job thats paying for 1/2 the subdriver,,yea!then honeydo's bleh...thanks

[redboat219]

You sleep?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looks fine. What?! ... you want a cookie!?

Cary on. Finish the damned thing already.

I'll get you those numbers tomorrow, I'm off to bed.

David

[satlite440]

anyone? hello is this thing on?

[satlite440]

well i think i got that part finnished..tell me what you think..now god if your listening is there ANY modifacations that NEED to be done that will make installing 2 ft and 1 rear tube easyer down the road.. also your caswell pueumatic launchers look to be about 6 inches long.how long are they and aproxamatly how much does each tube weigh. or do you recomend the servo operated tubes for the VIIc. my plan is to have at least 3 working tubes.so i was going to cap off 3 tube and weight them with shot so when i trim the boat the weight of the lanchers will be acounted for.then it would be just a matter of slideing out the fakes and slideing in the working ones. but will be trying to get an idea of how much total the gas tank/solinods/and controller add to the non armed VIIc. i plan to purchase the subdriver in the next 30 days.and the rest of the componants needed in the 60-90 after that as $ becomes avaliable and sidework permits.. thanks again to all..shane

[Kazzer]

yes your right redboat219.however since the weights&foam set is not available on the caswell website at this moment in time i am makeing my own.

shane

These will be back into production soon, as we will have someone available to make them.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Good man. Now, be careful, the weight sections are brittle. Work with care.

David

[satlite440]

i humbly bow before the masters.... the result yea.. well i will hopefully be able to use my air die grinder with a 3m surfaceing disk to sand it flat.. barring that a rough file and hand work... we will see starting foam tonight.

[vital.spark]

Hello Shane,

You got the right stuff! I used some in 1/2" and some in 3/4" but 1" will be OK I have a small band saw and used it to cut the required thiskness. If I remember correctly, I used 1/2" to fill the saddle tank void? The stuff is dead easy to work with when you do the contour of the left and right tanks.

The Caswell ballast used birdshot which is very tiny and a clearish thin epoxy resin. The top surface dwhen received was quite smooth and level. I see you used something in the order of 00 buckshot and a thicker epoyx mix so you'll have to tell us how it turned out?

Regards,

Myron

[satlite440]

ok think im back on track now.epoxyweight slury cureing.. cast weights don't look to bad they are aprox 4 oz haven't weighed them yet but will ck fit after spliting hulls thurs night after work. hope the tolet wax ring wax does it's job.i got a good coat on it and the seams..praying now..also pucked up the foam.. this is the right stuff???????please tell me it's the right stuff.. if not the hunt will continue.. but i only payed 3 bucks for it.. thanks for all the help,encouragement,and the slapping into line...

shane

[satlite440]

yes your right redboat219.however since the weights&foam set is not available on the caswell website at this moment in time i am makeing my own..i read somewhere that fitting the foam was easyer when the hulls were apart as to fitting them into the saddle tank void nicely and i want to do that.. as far as the weights go. i was attempting to cast a mould for the keel weights that would be removable and sectionable for when i get to that stage. i was happy with the weights i cast to day but am going to try the epoxyslurry/fishing weights with wax now... i don't mind experementing.. also i got some foamular pink at the local hardwere store and will set the depron aside for something else. sorry about the confusion about the "boat" in the future i will call the surface runner i built the "targetboat" that one was the one i epoxyed in the bulkhead that holds the moter/drivetrain...and that that was the only experence i had with an epoxy.. as a side note is the qucikwood dave talks about made by loctite?


thanks for your patience with a beginner

shane