Revell Type VII Build advice

[Reckless]

replacing the gas system suits me fine... mines broken anyways ;) when production is ready lemme know I'll send money your way (I keep meaning to pick up a 1/230 skipjack setup anyways)

[H2Ohaze]

Side question on the foam: is the pink insulation foam (I found Owens-Corning "Foamular" at Home Depot) preferred over the standard white "Smoothfoam" brand available at Hobby Lobby and commonly used in packing. Hobby Lobby also has open cell stuff that's like a sponge; I don't mean that.

Reason I ask is I just finished my RPMtech Holland with lots of the Smoothfoam stuffed in it, and after 1/2 hour surfaced trim looked a little lower (1/4 inch) in water. Getting the foam in and out of that hull is a pain, have to have small hands.

Before gluing the halves of the VIIC together, I thought I would pre-shape the saddle tank foam as a first draft at it. So this is why I also ask at this time in my build.

Also, if I do have the right foam with the Foamular, it comes with the sides coated with a thin plastic covering which can be removed. I'm wondering if the Foamular can be hot wired like the Smoothfoam can be.

Or please direct me to the correct foam to use. I did buy some from Caswell, but I'd like more of 1/2 inch thick stuff to make mistakes with.

I did do an experiment where I submerged some Foamular and Smoothfoam. After about 1 1/2 hours, the Foamular gained a little weight, but the Smoothfoam almost doubled in weight, using a sensitive gram scale.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The white foam is open-cell type and will water-log, as you observed. Don't use it.

The pink and blue stuff is closed-cell. use it.

I have spoken! (insert crack-of-thunder sound here)

David

[H2Ohaze]

Okay. I don't relish the thought of trying to replace the foam in the Holland. Retrimming is fine, it's pasting the stuff inside the confined hull.

So is the Foamular the right stuff, or just any pink insulation foam?

Can it be cut with a hot wire?

Thank you.

EDIT: On the (white stuff) Smoothfoam website, it states that it is closed cell: http://www.plasteelcorp.com/dylitevsstyro.htm

[H2Ohaze]

Apparently, Plasteel corp makes a distinction between Styrofoam and Smoothfoam, the former being open cell, the latter being closed cell...?

It still doubles it's weight after submergence, although this isn't a lot since the stuff is featherlight. It's actually lighter than the Formular pink stuff before it gets wet.

[Avera]

Another side issue concerning the WFLY FT06-A transmitter: I was testing the SD and laid the transmitter on its back, but left on. I noticed after several minutes that the face plate was getting hot, not burning or melting, just very warm to the touch. I have never experienced this with my other transmitter. I am going to post this on the WFLY section as well.

Any thoughts????

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, it can be cut with a hot-wire.

David

[trout]

Another side issue concerning the WFLY FT06-A transmitter: I was testing the SD and laid the transmitter on its back, but left on. I noticed after several minutes that the face plate was getting hot, not burning or melting, just very warm to the touch. I have never experienced this with my other transmitter. I am going to post this on the WFLY section as well.

Any thoughts????

Andrew

Was your antennae extended? If I run my antennae collapsed it will get uncomfortably warm, I believe Kevin taught me to keep it extended even when testing. It does run cooler.

[Avera]

No it was collapsed. I'll keep that in mind next time. Just that being in the house with it, the long antenna is an accident waiting to happen.

[trout]

LOL - I need to be so careful, but for short tests, I leave it down in the house for the same reason as you mentioned. Just know it will get a little warm.

[ADDINGTON]

There is also the option of Depron foam. Available in sheet form at any hobby outlet that caters to R/C Aircrafters, who use it to 'skin' their models. It comes in a variety of thicknesses and is Closed-Cell. I cut it into strips and "laminated" it (in layers where necessary) into my Type VII. Very easy to work with, and among its attributes is that it does not come in pink.
-Kerry

[Avera]

Sorry to be away for a while; I have been to Home Depot and can only find the a 4x8 foot panel of white foam insulation nearly 1 inch thick. Is this the white stuff David mentioned?? I am still looking for the pink stuff, but the LHS and area building suppliers don't seem to carry it.

Also, on the SD electronic side question, I thought I had properly wired the ADF and the lipo guard, but the control for the ballast does not appear to function. Here is how I wired the ADF and Lipo Guard:



ADF:

With the ADF laying flat There are two 3 wire leads on top and two 3 wire connectors beneath it.

A) The top lead runs to the receiver #6 channel position
B) The bottom lead to the Lipo Guard.
C) The top ADF connector to the rear place servo
D) The bottom ADF connector to the ballast servo

Lipo Guard has a top connector and a bottom lead

A) The connector receives the bottom lead from the ADF as mentioned in B above
B) The lead connects to the receiver #4 position


Please let me know if any of the connections are wrong.

Thanks,

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You got it right, Andrew.

Did you make up the Lipo-guard power wires to the battery power cables? It's through that the device senses battery cell number and voltage.

Here's a video that should give a bit of inspiration:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmDDjB3RZik&feature=youtu.be

David

[Avera]

Hi David,

Yes, the Lipo Guard is wired directly to the battery cables (its lit). My concern and probably due to programing ADF error, is that I cannot get the ballast servo to work in the above configuration through the transmitter (sometimes when I power up the SD, that servo moves quickly to one extreme. I have to disconnect the power, manually readjust the sero to get it to stop doing that). If I wired the ballast servo directly to the receiver it works like a charm, but not through the ADF/Lipoguard connections. Also the rear planes don't adjust as I tilt the SD up/down. So my guess (hopefully) is in the ADF programming.

PS: I like the video!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK. Are you giving the ADF time (the moment you turn the mission switch 'on') to run through its start-up protocal? That would explain the non-operation of the angle-keeping portion of the circuit.

Are you getting three solid green LED's on the Lipo-guard?

Kevin: Help!

David