Revell Type VII Build advice

[Avera]

Here are some photos of the trim test. Basically I have to remove trapped air bubbles in order to get the sub to lower with the deck below water. I am guessing that a few holes on the deck would suffice. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Andrew

PS: there are really two layers of foam. layer one for surface trim and a higher layer for submerged trim as once the first layer is completely underwater, it will not keep the sub are diving depth; it goes to the bottom. I added a higher second layer above the waterline, underneath the deck, to allow the sub to float with the deck submerged, also added a little foam to the conning tower to keep the snorkel opening above water. I made a video and will try to post.

Here are the video links showing surfacing and diving:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqdrN6EqJoI&feature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4xP4mENGWg&feature=youtu.be

[Avera]

Hi Folks,

Just got back from my vacation and need some advice concerning the bubbles underneath the deck. If you look at the first video you will see what I mean. I can hear the air escaping from the sail holes as I push the boat around by hand. I need for the air to leave naturally. Should I drill a bunch of holes on the deck? Also, once the air bubbles leave, is the boat submerged enough for diving?

Thanks for your input,

Andrew

PS: Dave I sent you a message regarding the parts

[Avera]

HI Folks,

I was hoping that someone would respond.

Thanks,

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Andrew,

The bollard heads engraved in the deck. Those are round. Open them up, they will be the escape path for the bubbles trapped under the flat deck. Sorry, this post of your's slipped under my radar.

David

[ADDINGTON]

I also noticed a measureable improvement when I opened the square "holes" in the access hatches fore and aft of the conning tower.
Even tho I expanded them a bit to meet David's axiom that anything under 1/8" will be ineffective due to surface tension, they looked logical on the deck and were a welcome tradeoff for the effect as I saw the bubbles escape. See attached pic of a pair of openings I sneaked on either side of the forward scope in the bridge floor. Other folks get the job done without these additional openings, but it was good for me.
Your call, Kapitan.
-Kerry

[Avera]

Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated. I am hoping to perform my sea (pool) trial this weekend before drilling any holes on the deck. I have a few in the sail and since the air does escape when the boat is submerged and shaken. I will try to see if when I force it to dive (forward motion with down planes), the air will escape naturally. If that does not work then it is drill time.

On a side note, I need to "unglue" the blue resin air intake 90 degree mount and move it a little bit so I can have room to pressurize the ballast. It was glue onto the Lexan tube with CA for plastic. Any suggestions on how to free it without damaging the tube? I was thinking just using pliers and a twist motion.

[Avera]

Can anyone advise how to remove the air intake from the tube? I am afraid of breaking either part, especially the Lexan tube if I simply use pliers to twist off the intake resin part.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

CA adhesive shatters with a shock force. Break out the hammer -- no kidding!

David

[H2Ohaze]

I'm having problems understanding the rudder assembly.

1) The two pictures in the one page pdf "VII rudder" contradict each other. If the side gears were set as above picture, the bell crank would have to be on starboard, not port side. Or...to keep the bell crank on port side, the gears in first pic would have to be repositioned.

2) What does the raised notch on the center gear do?

3) How can I distinguish between the bow plane bell crank and the rudder bellcrank? To go by the first pic, it looks like the one with 2 dimples in the arm is for the rudder and three dimples for the bow plane???

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[H2Ohaze]

Thank you, from these latest pics I see that the bottom pic in the pdf version is the incorrect one- the bell crank goes to starboard, not to port.

It also looks like the bell crank on the rudder is the one with three dimples, which means the two dimpled one must be used on the bow plane.

Still not answered: These pics don't show the raised notch on the center metal gear. It is either not present in the metal one in your photos or it is being hidden under the bell crank????

[Avera]

Hi H2Ohaze,

I oriented the center metal gear so that the raised notch was up and pointing towards the bow so not affect the two side gears. BTW, I have the bell crank arm on the port side; works just fine.

Andrew

[H2Ohaze]

Got it working. I'm now on the SD. I charged the two 1300 mah LiPos up about three months ago, but then left them.

I couldn't get the two packs in and still have room for the switch. The switch got pushed toward the top (above batteries) and broke.

I'm examining the two batteries. I've never seen a "puffy" LiPo before, but these have about .050" of give to them...I can squeeze them in like a balloon about 0.050" of the approx 0.650" thickness. I'm wondering if the batteries should be disposed of, new ones obtained, as well as a new switch, and possibly a new forward end cap- in case I can't fit the switch I can start over with an undrilled cap.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yeah. Get new batteries. Are you using a Lipo-Guard? Give me an address and I'll send you a forward bulkhead and strain-relief block.

dmeriman@aol.com

David

[H2Ohaze]

Thanks David. Replied to you. The batteries are actually new...but I had all the SD parts sitting in my toolbox for about 3 months while I built the propshafts, planes and rudder, hull.

Not knowing about Lipos, I fully charged them and then let them sit all this time. LHS says that is not a good idea...builds up gas.