Revell Type VII Build advice

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  • Avera
    Lieutenant
    • May 2012
    • 95

    Revell Type VII Build advice

    Hi,

    I am new to this forum and would like the advice on building the Revell 1/72 VII. Although new to RC modeling, I have built the Blue Devil destroyer and a Dumas Tug into RC boats.

    I have ordered the fittings kit from Caswell and intend on getting their sub-driver next month. What I am looking for are the following:

    1) Any special sequence steps I should follow to avoid construction errors: The sequence as far as I can determine:


    Part 1 - hull

    a) Cut out the drainage holes - 50 plus holes I am guessing - any tips on cutting the holes?
    b) shave the area needed for the stern planes
    c) assemble and install the propeller shafts (plastic parts)
    d) attach the torpedo parts - should I leave all four torpedo hatches open for drainage?
    e) glue the two halves - should this be done in stages? glue the middle keel then after set, glue the outer two ends together? [Any putty to fill the gaps?]
    f) install the props
    g) install the stern planes
    h) install the rudders and fitting
    i) install the forward planes
    j) add ballast


    2) I normally use medium CA and Dap plastic cement on my models, but being my first submarine, is there a better adhesive for the model? And what about the fitting parts from Caswell? Also, I read in their instructions that I should use Permatex Blue. Does any one know which specific model#? I would going to use the CA on the metal to metal and the metal to resin parts.
    3) How many of the holes do I need to drill out? Is there an area that I should either avoid or be extra careful to avoid overly weakening the hull?

    I figure the above should keep me busy for at least a month before I start on the electronics.

    Thanks in advance for your help and input.

    Andrew
  • trout
    Admiral
    • Jul 2011
    • 3545

    #2
    Andrew,
    Welcome and YES to building the Revell Type VII!
    Have you looked over the cabal reports that David created? Check these out http://support.caswellplating.com/in...modeling-files

    Read type VII and the Gato reports. You will gain a lot of information!
    Peace,
    Tom
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment

    • redboat219
      Admiral
      • Dec 2008
      • 2735

      #3
      I was looking over David's cabal reports the other day specifically those about the Revell Type VII. Most of the photos are missing. Maybe David can fix them.
      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

      Comment

      • trout
        Admiral
        • Jul 2011
        • 3545

        #4
        Which one? The ones I am looking at are PDFs and photos are enclosed?
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

        Comment

        • redboat219
          Admiral
          • Dec 2008
          • 2735

          #5
          Yup, they're the PDFs. Hmmm. Must be because I'm using my iPhone to look at them. Will try with the desktop...
          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

          Comment

          • Avera
            Lieutenant
            • May 2012
            • 95

            #6
            Hi,

            Thanks for the reference PDFs. I found them and as follow up to them, I have a few more quesitons:

            The only Permatex adhesive I found is the black and clear RTV silicon sealant. Is either better and do you recommend using it for attaching the metal and resin parts?

            As for the fitting kit, the stern planes came with round holes instead of the square one plus several other parts were missing and one of the rudders was missing the little brass pin. Made a call for replacement parts.

            There is a small screw that came with that kit and apparently belongs to the rudder bell-crank. However it doesn't fit (too small in diameter) and there already is a hex set screw in it. Not sure what is it for?

            The other thing about the rudder gears is the main round gear. It does not appear to be secured in the foundation, it is just attached to an inch brass rod inserted into the foundation. Has anyone experience gear slippage? I was thinking that the gear assembly can slide up and disengage when turning, just a thought.

            Got the boat today and it looks impressive including a couple of dozen navy men that is awaiting paint. Hope to start this weekend once I have a good clear picture of how to proceed and have gotten the needed tools and supplies. I would appreciate any thought or suggestions to get me going. I will try to post pictures of my progress.

            Thanks,

            Andrew

            Comment

            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
              Moderator
              • Aug 2008
              • 12253

              #7
              Andrew,

              I'm addressing the missing parts from your fittings kit tomorrow.

              Use whatever air-curing RTV adhesive you have available to you.

              The round-head 2-56 screw is a retainer used to hold the big gear down on the resin rudder foundation piece. A locater dimple on the surface of the foundation pieces indicates where to drill a 1/16" diameter hole to accept the self-taping screw. The head of the screw will keep the center gear from lifting off the foundation.

              The round holes (bores) in the two stern planes receive the square sectioned brass tube, which in turn engages the square hole in the center of the cast white metal stern plane bell-crank.
              Who is John Galt?

              Comment

              • Avera
                Lieutenant
                • May 2012
                • 95

                #8
                Thanks for the quick reply. As for the round holes, the square brass doesn't want to slide in at all; I can't even get a starting edge in. I guess I will have to drill out the hole a bit to accommodate the tube otherwise I feel that the plane will break under my pressure to insert the tube. Perhaps the tube could be polished down a bit. Not sure which way is best.

                By the way, which tool is best for cleaning up the metal parts. The prop has some rough edges and a bit of casting material on one of its blades.

                Comment

                • alad61
                  Commander
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 476

                  #9
                  G'day Avera.

                  Cleaning white metal is really no differant to resin or plastic. Past experiance in my WH 40K gaming days taught me that a fine small needle file followed by a ladies nail file, the diamond file type and then polished off with 800 to 1200 wet n dry paper usualy does the trick. Most importantly go slow n soft on the stuff and when your done you can do what I do and soak them in vinager solution for a day to etch them. Unless you want to pickle them quickly then use the etching acid for circuit boards etc. Hope this helps.:)
                  Cheers,
                  Alec.


                  Reality is but a dream...
                  But to dream is a reality

                  Comment

                  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                    Moderator
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 12253

                    #10
                    Good metal working techniques from Alec, Avera.

                    As to getting the square tube to fit the round hole (my little joke ... humor me!), you are best served to attack the edges of the square stern plane operating shaft, reducing edge thickness from the nominal .014" wall to about .008" wall. Doing so will give you the tight (yet not too tight) fit between square tube (your stern plane operating shaft) and round holes within the stern planes. A few passes with a flat jeweler's file over the edges of the square tube will do the trick. Thinner at the ends of the operating shaft than the center -- in fact we don't want to round-off the edges at the center of the operating shaft at all -- that's where the white metal stern plane bell crank will fit, and we want that friction fit assembly to be a tight one.

                    Also, to make a tight fit of the bell-crank to the square sectioned operating shaft: test fit the two, and if the fit is too sloppy, remove the bell crank, put it on an anvil, and lightly hammer the face of the square hole to reduce its inside dimensions -- do so till you get a tight, non-rotating fit between bell-crank and operating shaft.

                    David
                    Who is John Galt?

                    Comment

                    • Avera
                      Lieutenant
                      • May 2012
                      • 95

                      #11
                      On a side note on the metal photo etched brass parts. I came across awebsite offering them and was thinking about improving soem of the small details on like the railings, floor area of the sail tower, etc. Any thoughts on this? Not sure if it will add any substantial amount of wieght above the waterline. My experiences with these parts is with slot cars and they generally are quite light. Just need to secure them from coming off underwater.

                      Andrew

                      Comment

                      • trout
                        Admiral
                        • Jul 2011
                        • 3545

                        #12
                        Andrew,
                        For me, I have resisted the addition of do-dads and add ons until I have a working sub. The etched brass additions are sitting on my bench, but are the last thing you want to worry about. There is also an issue of plastic and brass not expanding/contracting at the same rate, so out in the hot summer days and being plunged into cold or cool pond water may cause the nice details to pop off. To be fair, I can not confirm this personally, since I took HWSNBN word for it and avoided my natural tendencies to detail the heck out of it, I left the brass details off. The other thing I have found is how much a few grams of weight can change your trim. So for what it is worth, that is what I have to offer.
                        Now my second Gato might be a different story!
                        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                        Comment

                        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                          Moderator
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 12253

                          #13
                          Do what Trout says.

                          Heed my words ... or suffer my awful wrath!
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment

                          • Reckless
                            Lieutenant Commander
                            • Jan 2012
                            • 183

                            #14
                            I have the brass detail bits on my Type7 .. and yeah.. crap keeps falling off ... and I'm only in and out of my bathtub with luke warm water...

                            Comment

                            • Avera
                              Lieutenant
                              • May 2012
                              • 95

                              #15
                              Sorry, but I will probably have a lot of questions as I progress with the amazing hobby.

                              Since I am still in the planning stages, what is the best or only way to prep the sub for torpedoes in the event I chose to add them later? I know this model can handle five, but realistically without overly complicating it, I think that perhaps two of the froward torpedoes would be operational and the bottom two simply displaying inactive torpedoes or perhaps keeping the tubes empty as though spent or with fake torpedo heads; many options.

                              Comment

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