Revell Type VII Build advice

[Avera]

I know, it is a bit too gold looking. The color is suppose to be bronze and it needs a lot more weathering plus some other colors to give it more of a rust look. Still sorting out which powders and paint to add. It actually has black and brown on it, but the flash on the camera reflects the metallic paint. The rest of the boat will get a lot of weathering effects then a coat of flat clearcoat.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I suspect the actual anchor's were cast from iron. Also, do to later strategic metals shortages, they even began to cast their propellers from ferrous metals.

David

[Avera]

Latest update:

Got my SD, radio, receiver, ADF, and Lipo Guard. Connected everything, programed the ADF, filled the ballast and did a test in the tub.

The plane, rudder and throttle controls all seem to work (not connected to the actual parts on the sub as I was testing the SD by itself), but at very low throttle, only one shaft spins, I need to give it a little more juice before both spin. Not sure why.

The SD comes with a speed controller already connected, very nice. However, the website which states that one is required, so I had ordered it. Something to return (I am exchanging it for the SNORT system).

First problem, as I tried to charge the ballast tank, it kept leaking the propellent through the top Schdrader value. It was loose and a little tightening solved that problem.

The second problem is trying to discharge the ballast tank (blow the water out); it does not work. It appears that the Schrader value is way too stiff or there is not enough torque in the servo to pull in the pin on the value. It discharges if I use my fingers and easily empties the tank but not by the servo. I tried adjusting the two blocks that hold and move the lever, but that did not work, the level simply bends without firing the ballast and the servo does not have the strength to pull any further. I did get it to partially fire just once and it emptied only half the tank, but the servo is constantly on (you can hear it - I even tried adjusting the trim controls on the transmitter), not good. The servo does work to empty the ballast of air thru the valve on top. However, until this if remedied, I cannot get the sub to surface.

Other side issues:

I thought the complete SD came with the dog - bone connectors, it did not, so they are on order. I also order the small SNORT system. I am hoping that all those small parts that came with the SD is for that.

I have to figure out how to install a velcro strap to hold the SD in place in the sub. The SD and or fittings kit did not come with a strap or attachment brackets. I guess it is something I am going to have to devise.

So for now, everything but these minor glitches seems to be on track.

Perhaps someone can give me some tips on fixing the discharge value. I really do not want to take apart the center bulkheads.

Thanks,

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Andrew,

Your blow valve Schrader valve return spring is too tight.

Remove the blow valve from the SD (keep the hose still made up to the on-board bottle, there is enough slack to pull most of the blow valve through the bottom 1" flood-drain hole). Pull out the Schrader valve, grasp the base of the thing and pull the valve element down to compress the internal spring. This will reduce the springs tension, requiring less servo force to achieve a blow.

Re-assemble and sin no more!

Was this a SD kit or did it arrive assembled and tested?

David

[Avera]

Hi David,

It arrived assembled and tested.

If you are talking about removing the Schrader valve, it appears to be set with two allen type screws of which one of them cannot be reached from the bottom hole.

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You only need loosen the one you can get at -- the blow valve will then slide out.

David

[Avera]

Well that did not go to plan. I gently tried to pull the valve just far enough to remove the stem and the hose separated at the crushed tubing section. Can't get the two hoses to reconnect unless I remove the ballast tank.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No big deal, Andrew. Here's what you do:

1. undo the on-board bottle fastener, then apply pressure to the top of its charge fitting till you break the RTV bond between the top of the bottle and the Lexan cylinder
2. remove the bottle from the cylinder through the big hole in the bottom of the cylinder
3. make up the blow-valve plumbing to the on-board bottle nipple
4. reinstall the on-board bottle -- don't forget the RTV to seal its top against the cylinder and make up its retainer
5. make up the blow-valve to the after ballast bulkhead

I can do this in five-minutes. You? Longer.

David

[Avera]

Well, that did not work out either as the solder connection on the blow valve came apart as I tried to reinstall the valve in its slot. I was being very careful, but the little hoses are stiff and the hose configuration has a twist in it as it goes from the ballast tank to the blow valve. As I tried to manuever the value so that the little copper elbow coming off the valve could enter its slot, the copper assembly came apart.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You can solder, right?

David

[Avera]

Hi David,

My soldering skills is limited to wires and that is average to marginal (don't have the right equipment or enough practice). I have never soldered anything like this before and especially something that is under pressure. A mistake could sink and lose the sub. I would prefer to send back the unit for repairs as I probably will break a spare part given the limited access and tight space. I know my limits and with so much money already invested, I rather let someone who is familiar with the SD and knows very well its assembly to repair it.

Thanks for your help

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK, send it to me. I'll fix you up, Andrew.

David

[Avera]

The SD has been shipped. In the meantime I am waiting on the LPB and looking for trim foam. I was able to find grey foam used for piping insulation, does not absorb water and comes in a split tube (to fit over pipes). It is approx 5/16" thick and since it curved and pliable, I think it will better conform to the hull. Any thoughts on this stuff, it fairly cheap (about $2 at Home Depot for a 6 foot length that is 4.75 inches wide).

Andrew

[Avera]

The following is an email answers and questions regarding the electronic connections that can be of help:

A few more questions:

1) On the SD, the wiring for the servos are not white red and black, but orange, red and brown. Is brown the black wire and orange the white?
Yes

2) I used the crystal from the Wfly receiver on the Sombra 6 and that seems to work all the servos and speed controller. Was I correct on using that crystal? The other crystal did not seem to bind the receiver with the transmitter
There was a packaging error with the Lipton-6 receiver and its crystal -- Caswell is addressing this issue now. Thanks for bringing this to our attention, Andrew. Yes, for now use the WFly crystal in that receiver.

3) Where do you mount the lipo guard, the receiver and the ADF? I see that there is an aluminum shelf in front of the 3 servos. I was thinking the the ADF should go on top with double sided tape, the lipo guard on the bottom side of the shelf,and the receiver loosely pack below that.
The receiver goes atop the horizontal bracket on the forward face of the aluminum bulkhead. The ADF to one side of the servos, the Lipo-Guard to the other side. (I am using automotive double sided tape, works very well)

4) The long wiring I guess connects the battery from the forward compartment through the brass tubing to the two speed controller power leads using the Dean connectors. Is that correct?
I hard-wire the battery cables to the ESC (as well as the Lipo-guard and MPC power wires -- all of which are wired in parallel), but if you can squeeze it in, you can use the smaller sized Deans connector. (I have hardwired parallel JST connectors to the battery wire since my battery use JST, this works well as a quick release and is fairly small. I have a balance charger - iCharger 106B, a separate 350W power supply, balancing adapter board and a 6 wire power leads to charge up to six batteries at the same time (do this for all my helicopter lipo batteries; saves time)

5) Does the ADF control the rear planes using Channel 5 on the Wfly 6 channel transmitter? (My mistake, it is on channel 6)
I use channel-6, the nob to the left.

6) the way I have wired the parts is as follow:

ADF lead A is connected to the receiver channel 6 which is controlled by the dial

ADF lead B is connected to the Lipo Guard which is then connected to the receiver channel 4 which will operate the vent/blow servo
Yes.

ADF connector C is attached to the forward planes servo
No. To the receiver, channel-4 port. (My response to this answer is the C connector according to the ADF instruction is an output male connector. I don't see how connecting it to the receiver's output would work)

ADF connector D is attached to the vent/blow servo (need a lead extension as the vent/blow servo lead barely comes out of the lexan tube.
Yes and yes.

The Lipo Guard power leads is connected to the battery at the same connection point as the speed controller's power leads
In parallel, yes.

The rest of the transmitter/servo channels are:

Channel 1 - Rudder
Channel 2 – forward planes
Channel 3 – speed controller
Channel 4 – Vent/Blow
Channel 5 – not used (will be used for the LPB)
Channel 6 – Rear planes
That's the way I do it, Andrew.

David

[Reckless]

Avera if you need visual reference my type 7 SD is apart right now and I can take pictures of the engine room and all the devices placements