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Wow! Good stuff. What you call shame photos I call a good presentation -- we all learn as you describe how your overcame the problems and got those little lights to work. Nice.
Thank you Alec! I do not know if it is braver or just me being too dumb to know better. Sweet bliss.....
Adding more lights. On the conning tower light, I cut a groove down the back and drilled a small hole to thread the wires for the LED through. These warm white LEDs add a little yellow to the light making it appear closer to a light bulb and are much larger than the red/green LEDs used in the side navigation lights. Then to run the wires down the back, I used the liquid glue to pre-melt the plastic (in small sections) and squished the wires into the molten mess with tweezers. Holding then until it solidifies and move on to the next section. Then followed with thin CA as a quick filler and adhesive. The lens was made out of a clear rod of styrene that was sanded in half and glued to the LED with CA. It came out O.K., unless you look very closely, it is hard to see the wires down the back.
The Aft light was done the same. Just a different route.
I wanted a way to turn on and off the lights. The solution I came up with was a crude switch using a Normally Open Reed switch. The reed switch is one of the very small one reed switches that I purchased for making an electric torpedo. I encased it in shrink tubing to insulate it and then slid it into a brass tube to protect it from getting broken. The capstan is the knob turned to make the brass arm swing over to the reed switch. Here is a side and top view. On this setup in the picture I used an LED to test the setup. Styrene was used to create the full “off” stop and the “on” lock/stop. A magnet was attached to the arm (actually two magnets - I had some in the brass tube at the end of the arm, but after the first setup it did not work. So, a second, stronger, magnet was added a little further back)
A test of the conning tower lit up.
Later I will worry about a proper paint job. Now I need to get this wiring finished and check the trim.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
You made a nice set of lights and got a clever solution using a reedswitch for lighting up, by the way, Trouty sounds nice and fluffy to me, or do you prefer Magnetman?
Trouty????, Fluffy???? That's it, your making me mad, you wouldn't like me when I'm angry.... LOL call me what you want, just not late to dinner (then again, patting belly, I could probably skip a dinner or two).
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
I trimmed her up tonight in the inflatable pool. She was nose heavy (for good reason) and I added foam to get her level. I will have to do this again once I find a place to mount the battery. I chose a 9v rechargeable battery and I am thinking of waterproofing it by dipping it in rubber (like the type used for tool handles). If I put on the connectors before dipping, it would be a simple matter to recharge. Then again, I could place it in the wtc (not having to dip it) and make connectors to go to the outside world through the end cap. Then re-trim. What have you guys done?
I had that listing issue again because of the additional weight above waterline. When the tanks are empty she sits on the water line, so the additional foam was placed at and slightly above the water line. Placing it too high would exasperate the issue. If this does not correct it, I am back to adding lead low and putting all the foam at and below waterline. Trimming... it inhales badly.
David, would you help clarify, the Gato WTC can run on 7v or 11v? If this is correct, I am looking at getting this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...po%5FPack.html These are 5000 mAh 7.4 batteries. That seems like plenty of power. Thoughts?
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
WHY are you even thinking of placing your battery in water. Do not plastic-dip these things -- water will get in (no mater what you think), and it can't get out, killing the contact points between battery and cables.
I am not sure what you are saying to put in series? Would you clarify?
I have 2 of the 11.1v that I bought from Caswell. Why am I thinking this? I was just thinking of more time in the water time and less wear and tear on the pumps. O.K. I'll nix the plastic dipping idea, I can put the battery in the wtc.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Not intending to make it hard, but remember my dry space was shortened because of my lengthened prop shafts, so I am limited in size of batteries.
Taking David's suggestion, moved the 9v into the battery compartment. It will squeeze in there, so I drilled 2 1/16th holes into the already existing indentations and put bullet type connectors in on the wire. Sealed the hole and indentation with RTV.
There is a male and female mounted and that will prevent crossing wires. Tomorrow I will finish and test, then re-trim the sub. Just thinking out loud here, will I need to make a bracket or holder to prevent the 9v battery from shifting around? Tomorrow is another day for exploring and taking on challenges.
This is fun! For anyone thinking of doing it (including a friend who is starting -nudge, nudge- post some pictures will you?), go for it! Tonight before I moved the sub into dry dock for the light modification, I let my son play with the Gato in the inflatable pool. What a kick to watch him figure things out. I gotta get a sub for him! He said I was the smartest daddy in the world for building and figuring things out on this Gato. I know the truth and there are a lot of people smarter than me, but I sure felt 10 foot tall. :-)
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Oh, that's right. You shortened the forward dry space. Gotcha. I stand corrected.
Cut a piece of foam to jam the battery in there -- that will keep it from moving around. Which, as you suggest in your worried observation, is a potential cause of trim problems if the battery were allowed to shift around up there.
Sounds like your kid might follow in Daddy's foot-steps. Don't push, daddy ... just the occasional nudge.
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