Bronco Type XXIII by Ken

[Ken_NJ]

Thanks Andy, and David. So, maybe back to Mtroniks. I was looking at these two. I am using 3s Lipo with brush motor.

The Viper 15 specs say not compatible with Lipo.
The Viper 15HV is compatible with Lipo. But the voltage range is 12-24v. The nominal voltage for 3s is 11.1 volts. I have seen enough that besides dying esc's, that the Mtroniks line is touchy when it comes to under or over voltage from the specs. How true is this? Will the plain Viper 15 be fine? I have 3s Lipo/brushed motor in my Skipjack, will have to check which Mtroniks is in it.

Viper Marine 15

https://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-Marine-15.htm

Viper Marine 15HV

https://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-Marine-15.htm

[Subculture]

A lot of brushless esc's also have a brushed mode too, so you can use the controller with either type of motor. These ESC's tend to be super compact and cheap. e.g.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006638803582.html

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, what is your go to brushed ESC?

Mtroniks........

[Ken_NJ]

David, what is your go to brushed ESC?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks on the prep solution, yea it was blurry.

And I failed to mention, the motor is brushed, and the batteries are 3s.

That'll work. Just take the throttle end-points to 35% ahead/astern. Even then, don't go nuts on the throttle stick.

[Ken_NJ]

Thanks on the prep solution, yea it was blurry.

And I failed to mention, the motor is brushed, and the batteries are 3s.

[biggsgolf]

Sorry, was blurry ,

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-38374-Solve-1-Quart/dp/B000K25QSO/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2IFBKSCDH710Y&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.58HVa9EbQLrrg58AQk7wepTdrOHobOEwOtsy48F3b7KBChpEcrtf0K3OOzNpYz4_lIPDlYiePV942sFwqkQTmFAccMTi-cVB0TtulotQKJG4Yn2TUytFRrxODMZU6YFUyAKIhsk4_wRIDiTATwNi4LKbTcSzo-eKftydeypFFXzLVbKxgxNlIuvfHG5y8-Nq9eF7i_OBZfm29N3-P9wYf-2ojJ-D6gs6XA-7yveSA1k.pz90AHqd8L4IcFL7SsEBOw4vIHO5nNgMljUS76U_1cU&dib_tag=se&keywords=sem+prep&qid=1744708803&sprefix=sem+prep%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-5#customerReviews

[Subculture]

These also work well enough for low draw applications, but only okay for lower voltage (under 8v ) systems. If you're running 2s it should fine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286418397...G4HSVWN4BMVH7F

[Subculture]

Haven't purchased a brushed esc in years. Tended to use Microgyros but no longer available. This one comes recommended but perhaps a bit big for your boat?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387357762625

[Ken_NJ]

All I can see on the can is Prep. Prep what? Need the rest of the name please. Did another internet search and did not come up with anything.

Here are the books, reference materials, David so graciously let me borrow. Lots of good information within.





And some handwritten notes.



And a few pictures. All good stuff!



I have all that is needed for the sub driver. Except a speed controller. My Marlin and Skipjack both have Mtroniks ESC's. And we'e seen and talked about the problems with these. David recently had one die on him. What is your go to ESC? Bob leans towards the Python which is listed on his 'Favorite Products' page. And please, what is the name of the prep stuff used to wipe down the styrene?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

“PREPARE PLASTIC WITH TEE SHIRT SOAKED IN PREP” per David
Sem Prep

Good man! Commence hostilities, sir...

[biggsgolf]

“PREPARE PLASTIC WITH TEE SHIRT SOAKED IN PREP” per David
Sem Prep

[Ken_NJ]

Rob, this model was meant to be a static display model. Since the hull is thin, flimsy and flexes easily it was probably added there to give the hull rigidity.

And scrub all exterior portions with Dio-Sol or other surface prep, applied with an abrasive pad.

I cannot find Dio-sol doing a search. One model site mentioned to be careful in its usage. Is washing and rinsing with water and soap insufficient? You use and have many things that you have used and had for a long time. Like the automotive paints you recently had to replace. If Dio-sol is not available, what else can be used to wash down prior to painting?

[redboat219]

This support structure will need to be removed to make way for the sub driver.

could this have been used as a functional ballast tank for the model?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

To start, the hull is in sections. Will be easier to sand the hull, scratch up the surface, while it is not assembled. I cut up an emery board and use that to scratch up the smooth surface around the panel perimeters then use 220 grit paper to finish off the center of each panel. The emery board helps get right up to the weld lines. And those weld line are not smooth, they are rough to appear as real weld lines. Every once in a while snip the emery end off to get a fresh section. Once sanding is done the hull will be washed with soap and water inside and out, and probably washed a few times.



Lots of area to cover.







As it is the hull feels flimsy. This support structure will need to be removed to make way for the sub driver.



Coming up.
Assembly of the sub driver.
Complete sanding the hull.
Figure out how to have torpedo doors moveable.
Hull opening for water and air entry and exit.
Add appendages (dive planes etc).
Cutting open the top of the hull for the sub driver.
And more.
The sail will come at a later time for now, concentrating on the hull.

And scrub all exterior portions with Dio-Sol or other surface prep, applied with an abrasive pad.