British T-class
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Last edited by toppack; 03-07-2009, 12:28 PM.Rick L.
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Another error in the construction of the fiberglass cover is that the superstructure area is Way too wide just forward of the tower, but I can't figure out an easy way to correct that, so I guess it will have to stay that way. :(
Whoever redid the cover mold needs another Whoopen! Crack That WHip
The narrow area is visible in this pic:Last edited by toppack; 03-08-2009, 04:26 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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Another error in the construction of the fiberglass cover is that the superstructure area is Way too wide just forward of the tower, but I can't figure out an easy way to correct that, so I guess it will have to stay that way. :(
Whoever redid the cover mold needs another Whoopen! Crack That WHip
The narrow area is visible in this pic:
Rick! You must remember that these boats morphed weekly. You need to take ONE boat, and one photo of it and stick to that, otherwise you'll end up with a pigs ear of a mess. No two boats were the same by the time the war was finished, and after that, they went into 'Slippery T mode' .
To say the upper cover is wrong is incorrect.
So, I ask you, which model are you trying to replicate?Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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What I'm saying is that it's not correct for both Group 2 or 3 boats, that I have pictures and drawings of. Group 1 boats have even More differences from model cover than 2 & 3 do.
I'm modeling the Tally-ho, which is a Group 3, and similar to other group 2s & 3s in those areas.
I posted that picture since shape of forward deck is very easy to see, but others have same shape.
Altho obvious, the forward deck error is not as bad as the aft deck error.
I can certainly see why they did it. The mold would be much more difficult to make if they shaped those areas correctly, (more curved areas and surface direction changes would be needed).
Sorry, I just feel they are obvious errors that need to be noted.
With work most mold errors can be fixed tho and it's been fun doing it, where I can. :)
Do you know why they changed the cover mold?
Evidently the original Darnell mold was more correct in those areas.Last edited by toppack; 03-09-2009, 03:27 PM.Rick L.
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Re drawings i hope to get down to the copy shop at the end of the month, will let evey one know the cost for copys, then try and send them out to any ony that needs a copy.Comment
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But the problem is, I was ready to start cutting holes and making parts, last week.
So it may be too late to make changes, if it's a month or more before I get the drawing. :o
Are your drawings of an actual T-class or of a model?
Mike,
I've determined the drawing file you sent was made for or from a 'model' someone made, not an actual T-class. It only shows the size, shape and location of his models parts.
It may have been made from the model pictured below: (since drawing shows the exhaust-pipe looking tubes that are incorrectly on this model)
It's starting to get very frustrating trying to get accurate Information about the Real boat details. :rolleyes:Last edited by toppack; 03-09-2009, 01:24 PM.Rick L.
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I can't figure out a good way to make the deck-grills (or gratings). I certainly don't want to cut out each of the Many louvered slots for them, so I'm thinking about cutting out large holes, milling the edges of the holes to make a small ledge around them and then epoxying in stainless-steel screen-wire, which is sturdy and I have already. The FG is thick enough, so making the ledges should not be much of a problem.
This should also provide more than enough deck vents for vent/blow action.
I don't want to just paint them on.
Anyone have suggestions of how to simulate those many gratings?
Thanks,
Pic is part of drawing showing some of deck grating:Last edited by toppack; 03-09-2009, 06:07 PM.Rick L.
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Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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Sorry one more thing I did a master grating, then made a rubber copey so I could make as meny as neededComment
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I can't figure out a good way to make the deck-grills (or gratings). I certainly don't want to cut out each of the Many louvered slots for them, so I'm thinking about cutting out large holes, milling the edges of the holes to make a small ledge around them and then epoxying in stainless-steel screen-wire, which is sturdy and I have already. The FG is thick enough, so making the ledges should not be much of a problem.
This should also provide more than enough deck vents for vent/blow action.
I don't want to just paint them on.
Anyone have suggestions of how to simulate those many gratings?
Thanks,
Pic is part of drawing showing some of deck grating:Comment
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I hope I can make mine look that good.
Oh Man, Look at all those little holes I need to drill, in perfect rows no less! :eek:
The present mold puts in only some of the dimples to indicate where all those holes should be.
Another error in the new mold! :(Last edited by toppack; 03-10-2009, 10:58 AM.Rick L.
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Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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Last edited by toppack; 03-10-2009, 10:20 AM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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